Right now I have a Walbro 340 In-tank pump along with a Bosch In-line pump. I don't know exactly what kind the Bosch is because a shop put the system together for me. Right now, I'm looking to make new fuel lines (probably braided stainless) that use a different route so that I can tuck my y-pipe up higher for ground clearance. I figured that while I'm doing this I'd like to take care of my entire fuel system.

The idea right now is to maybe go a little overkill so it won't have to be done again in the future when more HP comes into play. The one concern I also have right now is that after an hour or so of operation, the in-line Bosch pump starts to make A LOT of noise. I mean, it's loud in general, but after an hour or so it can be heard very loudly over my stereo and exhaust. It's really that bad.

Anyways, I'm looking for total fuel system ideas. I'd like to keep the in-tank setup if possible, although an outboard pump sounds cool too. I do not know if the factory fuel bucket is still there or not since I didn't install the Walbro pump. I was thinking of the Racetronix dual-intank system, but I don't want to have to worry about fuel slosh, etc. I'd like to run braided line all the way to the fuel rails if I could find someone to weld on the fittings, but I can tie in with the factory lines ahead of the y-pipe if it proves too difficult/expensive. Like mentioned above, is it worth sumping the tank and going outboard?

For reference, the engine is a 355 with a T-trim. Right now I'm looking at 17psi boost, but with race gas and the intercooler setup i'm making, i'm looking to go to aroud 21-22psi. Right now the injectors are I think ~46lbs/hr. I'm willing to upgrade those as necessary as well. They're at about 80% duty cycle right now, and there is a boost-referenced FMU in place (looking to get rid of that too).

Also, what size line should I be looking at for the feed and return lines?

Thanks in advance!

 

I am currenlty running a custom twin intank setup and making over 700rwhp at 14 lbs of boost. Do you plan on running a cog belt to make that much boost out of your T-trim? If you do not want to run an intank pump then I would recommend going with a Weldon external pump. I also recommenfd getting a voltage regulator if you plan on driving the car on the street. Oh yeah for the power the car should make with 17lbs of boost you will have to upgrade your injectors in a hurry.

 

Let's just say that with the power I'm currently making at 17psi, those injectors are plenty.

However, I hope to change that with a new cam and an air/water intercooler. Then maybe comes the race gas and/or smaller pulley.

I'm already making this much boost without a cog system. I think I read that you need a special version or something of the T-Trim to run a cog setup.

 

btw IDOXLR8, do you know someone in the area who would be good to go to for having pipes made and TIG'd for the intercooler setup, along with possibly the mounting brackets?

 

Yes you may want to contact Gary Cook at PFE. I will get you a number tommorow if you want. I am extremely suprised you are making that much boost. How much power are you making at 17lbs? Also where did you get the TH400 and how much did it set up back. Who is making your intercooler?

 

I'm wondering if it's partially because of intake restrictions. The car still has a 52mm throttle body on it, stock intake, etc. etc. Please note that the engine setup was not built while in my possesion.

I made 442rwhp on APE's Mustang dyno a year ago, they installed the current fuel system. Keep in mind also that this is with a very tame cam and no intercooler. This was also with the 6-speed. I bought the TH400 from Roman, but it still wasn't what you'd define as cheap. With that being said, I did get a good deal on it since it had a transbrake, chromemoly driveshaft, shifter, cooler, and all odds and ends.

I plan on doing some of the intercooler work myself where I can, although as for the core I believe I am going with a Spearco unit. If you have any suggestions regarding the intercooler, please do not hesitate to step in.

 

I just ordered a Air to Air Spearco intercooler for my setup. I am still running a stock manifold and 52mm TB with my setup.

 

lol, well there goes that idea.

Do you think it makes any difference that I have an "LT4" head and am using the LT1 intake? I've recently heard discussion about this and am not sure what to believe. Should I be using an LT4 intake with my AFR 195's?

 

Ok, looks like I'm going with an outboard sumped setup as of now. Got any recommendations on which Weldon pump I should go with, and what kind of pressure regulator I should be looking at?

 

weldon 2025A pump, weldon regulator, weldon dial-a-flow pump controller if you plan on driving in traffic much... You can probably get it all bought for around $1200 if you shop around..
www.weldonracing.com

It works

 

I think you're making the right decision. Having the pump outside the tank is great for maintenance, if anything should go wrong with the pump you don't have to take the damn tank off, it is a pita to take that tank off.

I'm running a mallory 110 fi pump and it has been terrific. Very quiet and very reliable. There are lots of other pumps out there besides weldon, which is expensive. BG fuel systems has a new FI pump (see Summit catalog), and there is also aeromotive. I know there is a 1000+ HP mustank around here running 2 aeromotive pumps.
I ended up running a -08 an line from the tank to fuel rails, and a -06 return line. You may want to go bigger than this, perhaps a -10 feed and -8 return.
You also want to install a fuel filter before and after the pump. The one before the pump protects the pump, and the one after protects the injectors. Therefore, the filter between the tank and pump can not be too restrictive, otherwise your pump may cavitate and or make noise. The filter between the pump and injectors should be anywhere from 10-30 microns filtering efficiency.
Where my -08 feed line enters the engine compartment, I installed a billet y-block which splits the flow to each fuel rail. A short length of -6 hose was then used to connect up each fuel rail to the y-block.
I decided to install the regulator before the y-block, and this has worked out just fine, no problems at all. The factory installs the regulator at the end of the fuel rail, and the fuel has to go thru that small diameter crossover pipe. This could possibly create a lean condition on the driver side of the engine.

 

Perhaps twin in-line GSL392's which are good for 1000HP might be in order. These pumps are dead quiet, ultra-reliable, small and effecient. Two GSL392's are less than half the price of a Weldon and much less than a Aeromotive (aka timebomb). You can run one pump at a time (have internal check-valves) to lower current draw and reduce heating of the fuel. One pump is good for 550RWHP (safe support).

If you are hell-bent on a Weldon we can refer you to one of our customers who just removed his along with the speed controller + harness and replaced it with our twin GSL392 + PnP harness system. He could not stand the racket the Weldon made.

http://members.rogers.com/roguevette/

PS. The FPR should ALWAYS be the last thing in line. Weldon does make a VERY good regulator $$$.

 

Racetronix, sent you an e-mail.

 

Don't the LT4 heads have a different intake port design that requires the use of the LT4 intake manifold? You might want to check on that. I don't know much about it as I still have stock heads/intake.

 

You will need to use the LT4 manifold w/ the 195 heads. They are an LT4 casting.