Fuel system help
Fuel system help
Hey guy's
Looking to up the fuel system this winter....need some help
-who can weld the fitting on the back of your fuel rails
-what kind of line should i run from the tank to the front
-what parts do people rec of this kinda set up
-where should the FPG go ?
thanks
Looking to up the fuel system this winter....need some help
-who can weld the fitting on the back of your fuel rails
-what kind of line should i run from the tank to the front
-what parts do people rec of this kinda set up
-where should the FPG go ?
thanks
Jeremy, I bought a setup used, but it consists of dual walbros, 8AN feed that y's into the back of each rail and a single 6an feed out to the regulator and 6an back to the tank. This guys does fuel rails I think:
http://lt1intake.com/services.htm
Shoot him an email.
Jon
http://lt1intake.com/services.htm
Shoot him an email.
Jon
Last edited by RealQuick; Oct 30, 2006 at 06:43 AM.
I have been told my fuel system will safely support over 800 RWHP. I have a dual Walboro in tank system, ran to a HOBBS switch to kick the 2nd pump on when I reach 4#'s of boost. All ran through the stock fuel lines.
Also, my fuel pressure gage is mounted on my A-pilar, under my boost gage.
Also, my fuel pressure gage is mounted on my A-pilar, under my boost gage.
There are some cars out there making 1000HP on stock fuel lines and dual walbro. But if you wish to do it, here is my opinion.
I would use steel or aluminum tubing anywhere it does not need to flex. Hard tubing on the bottom of the car will provide excellent fuel cooling.
The best looking setups I've seen are the ones where the installer knew how and where to bend the hard lines. 1/2 inch lines for feed. 3/8 inch lines for return should be sufficient.
Autometer makes an electric fuel pressure gauge so you don't have to run fuel pressure lines inside the cockpit.
I would use steel or aluminum tubing anywhere it does not need to flex. Hard tubing on the bottom of the car will provide excellent fuel cooling.
The best looking setups I've seen are the ones where the installer knew how and where to bend the hard lines. 1/2 inch lines for feed. 3/8 inch lines for return should be sufficient.
Autometer makes an electric fuel pressure gauge so you don't have to run fuel pressure lines inside the cockpit.
i thought the max for the stock lines were 700ish rwhp........
i have the dual in take set up from lonnie....
if i don't have to change and stay stock i would be ok..with that .......
i have the dual in take set up from lonnie....
if i don't have to change and stay stock i would be ok..with that .......
Jeremy, I bought a setup used, but it consists of dual walbros, 8AN feed that y's into the back of each rail and a single 6an feed out to the regulator and 6an back to the tank. This guys does fuel rails I think:
http://lt1intake.com/services.htm
Shoot him an email.
Jon
http://lt1intake.com/services.htm
Shoot him an email.
Jon
Do you have any pics of your set up ????
if so just send them to my email...thanks
60lb mototron injectors
Racetronix 255 intake Fuel pump kit with plug and play with BAP
KB Boost-A-Pump
Stock lines (only running 6an to clean up the driverside of the engine bay) and Stock FPR in stock location (may upgrade that since the stock one has 130,000 milesbut it will be with a stock style)
Rich on here made 713RWHP with basically the same setup mentioned before (I think he had 70 lb injectors) Stock lines are good for about 1000 horse from what I have seen.
I have also witnessed guys make close to 750RWHP with my fuel system mentioned above.
Dual intakes are Nice, and are Future mod Friendly but most time not needed.
Racetronix 255 intake Fuel pump kit with plug and play with BAP
KB Boost-A-Pump
Stock lines (only running 6an to clean up the driverside of the engine bay) and Stock FPR in stock location (may upgrade that since the stock one has 130,000 milesbut it will be with a stock style)
Rich on here made 713RWHP with basically the same setup mentioned before (I think he had 70 lb injectors) Stock lines are good for about 1000 horse from what I have seen.
I have also witnessed guys make close to 750RWHP with my fuel system mentioned above.
Dual intakes are Nice, and are Future mod Friendly but most time not needed.
this is a pic I took of my setup when I mocked it up on a spare intake:

everything here is tapped and threaded instead of welded... -8an is 3/4-16 and -6an is 9/16-18. Use bottoming taps and tighten them up good and they seal very well.
I used o-ring to flare style fittings on the back since they are shorter. And I cut the flare portion off one side of each of the 90* ends that I used at the front to gain more thread bite.
I mounted the regulator as far forward as possible since I have an LS1-style hotchkis STB on the car. If I had a BMR or other, I'd have mounted the regulator at the back or somewhere else.
I also have a set of rails with -8an fittings welded to the back that I'm not using. It just doesn't have anything done to them for return yet.
a few other pics:



everything here is tapped and threaded instead of welded... -8an is 3/4-16 and -6an is 9/16-18. Use bottoming taps and tighten them up good and they seal very well.
I used o-ring to flare style fittings on the back since they are shorter. And I cut the flare portion off one side of each of the 90* ends that I used at the front to gain more thread bite.
I mounted the regulator as far forward as possible since I have an LS1-style hotchkis STB on the car. If I had a BMR or other, I'd have mounted the regulator at the back or somewhere else.
I also have a set of rails with -8an fittings welded to the back that I'm not using. It just doesn't have anything done to them for return yet.
a few other pics:


Last edited by Roadie; Oct 31, 2006 at 10:15 AM.
this is a pic I took of my setup when I mocked it up on a spare intake:
everything here is tapped and threaded instead of welded... -8an is 3/4-16 and -6an is 9/16-18. Use bottoming taps and tighten them up good and they seal very well.
I used o-ring to flare style fittings on the back since they are shorter. And I cut the flare portion off one side of each of the 90* ends that I used at the front to gain more thread bite.
I mounted the regulator as far forward as possible since I have an LS1-style hotchkis STB on the car. If I had a BMR or other, I'd have mounted the regulator at the back or somewhere else.
I also have a set of rails with -8an fittings welded to the back that I'm not using. It just doesn't have anything done to them for return yet.
a few other pics:
everything here is tapped and threaded instead of welded... -8an is 3/4-16 and -6an is 9/16-18. Use bottoming taps and tighten them up good and they seal very well.
I used o-ring to flare style fittings on the back since they are shorter. And I cut the flare portion off one side of each of the 90* ends that I used at the front to gain more thread bite.
I mounted the regulator as far forward as possible since I have an LS1-style hotchkis STB on the car. If I had a BMR or other, I'd have mounted the regulator at the back or somewhere else.
I also have a set of rails with -8an fittings welded to the back that I'm not using. It just doesn't have anything done to them for return yet.
a few other pics:
Nice Jered!
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