I blew threw 2 Accel stock OPTI's (stock one lasted forever never died should have kept ot) and 3 MSD PRO BILLET Opti's...

ALL DUE TO LOOSE ROTOR SCREWS. Actually, they werent loose to start with but one of the two screws came loose and jam rattled everything around creating nice 6200RPM 7psi (and alot of fuel) backfires.

I noticed on the last two MSD PRO BILLET OPTI's that one of the rotor screws backed out... on the last one only one screw backed out and the other was holding everything together kinda slopily... anyway upon final inspection of all the pieces, I realized one of the two screws didnt have LOCTITE on them... makes sense.

I ordered my final PRO BILLET and dissassembled it and RED locktited the two rotor screws and no problem since.

 

FYI - I have same heads your referring to (AI 200cc Fbody LT1 Castings) with the AI cam, T56 with D1SC twin intercooler @ only 7psi I made 570rwhp and hp was climbing straight at 6200rpm where the rev limiter kicked in... so... I think your closer to your goal of 600rwhp than you think! (also only running 1 Walbro 255 pump and stock lines, stock fpr, stock filter, stock rails, stock return, stock everything except motor + fuel pump).

 

Get a Fuelab fpr and you won't have those pesky problems.

 

THANKS EVERYONE! Lot of great info, going to have to take some time to read all of it over again and really think about it.

mzgp5x, do you know if the MSD cap/rotor has the same failure issue as the stock with the brass contact you speak of? I'll have to go out and check out my MSD and see if it has the same plastic welds. I haven't looked at in a while so I can't picture it in my head lol.


Blown 383, thanks for the diagram! That sure takes a lot of the guess work out of it, it'll help me greatly.

UR50SLO, I'd actually love nothing more than turbos but remember it is a B body, full kits go for around 6k and while im trying to learn how to weld I don't trust making my own turbo manifolds. First, I figure the blower setup will just be easier for a F/I novice such as myself. Easier to tune, easier to assemble ect...(even if only by a slight margin) plus its been done many times before on B bodies (and f bodies) so there is a ton of info and parts out there. I also bought a D1SC for about half the price of a new headunit that had only 75 miles on it to begin with, then had it completely rebuilt by procharger for free because of a strange defect pinhole in the compressor housing. So I pretty much made out with a brand new D1SC procharger for half price.
They even threw in 2 packages of new blower oil.


dookie454, thats some great news for me. I'll be running a turbo 400 so it wont be quite as much if everything else is equal but that is impressive for 7psi! Does the blower have any left in it or were you maxing it out? Do you have any problems with belt slippage? ATI doesn't make a bracket that fits the impala so i'll have to make one, im going to start researching options for different belt tensioners as I heard ATI's suck.

 

I have seen pics of the MSD rotor. Much improved over the stock sonic welded brass rotor piece. I would keep the base gm stock opti and move to an MSD new rotor and cap. I have had problems with other mfg's opti body fitting the front engine cam cover. I made a bad purchase one time of a del_tech (?) opti distrib. Did not fit. Had to mill the cover. They had only 1 rivet engaged in the brass contact on the stock rotor. I run an open tube to vent the opti (a 1997 vented unit). I find better cooling and air flow, but, you need to protect for dirt/ water comtamination.

Hope this helps. B>