Over the winter, I will be ditching the 6 speed and going with an auto. I have limited auto experience (powerglide in a full race car) and am looking for some options as this is a street car.

I like the idea of keeping overdrive so I will prob go with a full manual 4l60e ( I have one) or 4l80 if i can find one and disregard the electronics. What type of stall are you guys running with FI? Have any of you converted your 4l60/80 to full manual? Do you guys have any better trans options for the below setup?

The Car is a 95 Lt1 forged 355 that is a high 11 second car that traps 118ish on 6 lbs of boost from a vortech. I recently raised to 10lbs of boost and added meth/water injection and went from 4:10 to 3:42's in the rear. The car feels like a monster now , but I havent been to the track since. My shift point is 6000 with the 6 speed.

I posted in this section, because I am sure Fi cars act differently for an auto trans.

Any input is appreciated!

Thanks, Will

 

if you only running in the 11s or 10s i would just get the 4l60e built to handle the power its not that hard it would be your best bet. Or you can get the GN trans 200r4, problem with 4l80e is its heavy and pricy and only recomended if you making 700+ rwhp.

 

Cool, Thanks. Any Suggestions on a stall?

 

I have Precision Industries Vigilante 9 1/2" converter, 2800 rpm stall speed. I like it

 

if you want to take advantage of you power i would go with 3600 is probably where you make most of your trq but if you want the best converter for drag racing, sent your dyno sheet to guys over at protourque and they will give you a nice converter.

 

The converter that will give you the quickest times at the strip would be intolerable on the street. You will end up with a compromise. Something in the 3,500 range would probably work well. While it is somewhat combo dependent, something that stalls near peak torque is probably best for the strip - way too high for the street, IMHO.

Rich

 

The converter (9,5" vig) we used stalled 5300 widh 17psi + 60hp N2O
The same converter in the same car widh a NA 350 (heads & cam) stalls just above 3000rpm
Cant say that its intolerable on the streets in ordinary driving but you can forget traciton on the streets eaven if you use slicks...

 

I run an ATI 5600 stall in my track only car and that is definately not what I would like on the street. I was kinda unsure how the FI would affect the stall. I've only run an auto in a N/A application. I'll drive down to ATI and give them all my specs / dyno sheets. They build a pretty nice unit. I'm going to try to keep it around 3200.

Thanks for all of the replies.

Will

 

what are the major diff. in a 60 or 80??? Im planning the same in the next month and don't want problems. I mph 133 w/ 6 spd so hoping to get into high nines???? One of my buddy's has a 700r, can that handle the stress??? I'll be goin full man. w/ a brake.

 

I guess I will be the first to say...I wouldn't recommend a 4L60e in this application. God knows this has been argued a 100bazillion times on this board, so I'll keep it short and simple.

That transmission was never intended to receive that kind of power. I keep killing fully built units so I am a little bitter. I am going to go to a 4L80e this next year in search for longer "refresh/rebuild" intervals.

I may be wrong...but it was my understanding that the only "full manual" valve bodies out there for the 4L60e are the ones using a vacuum modulator?

 

i guess you never driven a car with a real stall converter not cheap ati etc... pro tourqe can stall to 5k and start moving the car on the street around 1300 rpm, feel tight driving around and does its job while racing.

 

My Neal Chance was nice on the street and would come up to ~4000 on the brake once we through enough timing at it. I was extremely impressed with how nice it was on the street though for a car that trapped 160+.

 

To each his own. I guess I should have spent more than $1,500 on mine.

Rich

 

Mine was only $1425. 10-inch "pro-mod" weld together. Mine wouldn't footbrake even to 2000. Without a transbrake, I bet my car wouldn't have even gone high 9's on the same setting it went 8.7 on. It struggled to hit 4000 on the brake which was why we through timing at it like it was going out of style.

 

That was sarcasm I guess it's a matter of taste as to whether a 4,000+ stall converter is acceptable on the street. It isn't to me and I was just trying to point out that my latest foray into trying it was NOT a cheap converter but a $1,500 Coan.

Rich