For those with the D1SC set up, read ahead to see how you may be missing out on some BIG HP.

Finally got my car to the tuner yesterday. After a pull or two we noticed we were way far down on the power level we expected to be at, (only 480 at the wheels). After adjusting the fuel pressure regulater, and accidentitly breaking the fuel rails, we were fortunate to have a spare fuel rail provided by the tuner, and installed the new ones and pressed on. After a few more pulls we noticed fuel pressure dropped, so we stopped before damage was done, and found that my second fuel pump had come off! After re-attaching it, and still making weak power, we decided to try it without the air inlet tube for the D1SC. I instantly picked up 110 RWHP! For those of you who have the inlet on your car, or for future D1SC owners, beware that this inlet tube to the blower is very restrictive to power on a modded engine. Fastbird I am sure will chime in any second with the dyno sheet and a few words as well. I am currently having a new tube fabricated with the filter that won't be nearly as restricted, and should make similar RWHP. We got to the tuner shop at 9:30 AM, and left the shop at 11:30 PM! This was one long day, but the tune is sound, and we finally found where the power was going!

Long story short my car made 590 RWHP and 545 RWT at 15.4 pounds of boost (up from 11 with the inlet tube on). This was done on a Mustang dyno, with a 92 F temperature, and 65 percent humidity, all on pump gas, no methanol injection, and the stock PCM.

 

Those mustang dyno's are usually a little on the low side but good numbers. Some pics and dyno sheet would be nice. cya

 

Mustang dynos are generally accepted as more accurate than DynoJets. It would be more accurate to say that DynoJets are a little on the high side.

 

Make sure we get pics of that new inlet tube that they are fabricating. So far there's only 2 options for a new inlet. Mufflex still has a jig and will make one for about $2xx but it resuses a part of the orange flex hose. The new ATI molded plastic intake is also available for $2XX. We're still waiting for dyno results on that one.

-B

 

lol jake, your probably right there but dynojet is much more common and to many is the standard.

 

 

What style inlet tube are you referring to? Also, what size pulley you runnin'? Congrats on the numbers!.

 

Ok, here's my part of things:

Jeff did an outstanding job tuning the car.

We ran into a snag with the fuel rails while diagnosing a sudden lean situation. Cracked the rail at the schraeder valve while trying to take the distribution block off to replace fuel pressure gauge sender. Fortunately, Jeff had an extra set of rails.

For some reason, the in-tank rubber line from the distribution block to the secondary pump came off the pump. Thanks to already having a hatch cut in the back of the car, the fix only took about 20 minutes and pressure was back up to normal.

Now, as for the dyno stuff.....

First pull up to 5200 RPM the car was running fat in the middle (right where the second pump kicked on), and baselined 480 HP and 500 TQ, with the 480 peaking at 5200 rpm. On subsequent pulls, higher and higher, power was just flatlined from 5200 RPM up. Peak power tuned as shown on the dyno graph by the blue line was right about 500 HP and 485 TQ. Something not right,

So we started looking for a restriction, and couldn't find a reason WHY the power would just flatline like that, so we though, "lets take that inlet off" and see what happens. The VERY next pull, the car picked up boost across the board, from 10 PSI up to 15 PSI at peak, and power and torque were up everywhere. With the blower sans intake, peak power was 590 @ 6300 RPM and torque was 545 @ 5000-5100 RPM. That's more like it.

But, can't exactly drive three hours home with no intake, so back on it went, and you see the wavering turd of a graph that followed (with the 590 tune in the car). Peak power of 482 @ 5200 RPM, 500 TQ @ 4400 RPM. That inlet is robbing the car of 110 HP and 45 lb/ft of torque. You can see what it did to the A/F Ratio also, it's just turd rich now. Hopefully the engine shop will be able to fab up something on the high side of a compromise there.

We couldn't pull past 6375 RPM for some reason, the car started breaking up on the top end. At 12 frames per second on TTS Datamaster, we recorded 16 frames of 6375 RPM. Talking with Jeff and the motor shop, we think the spark was being blown out on the top end. The car was set up originally for 12# of boost, and as such the plugs were gapped @ 35, so he's having a new set of plugs gapped at 27-28 put in, which should hopefully solve that problem.

My take: That "New" ATI inlet is garbage. It may be fine and dandy for a barely modified car, but Call 911's setup PROVES that it's not going to support anything over 10 PSI and be nothing but a restrictive piece of junk on a modified motor. I was simply shocked at what happened with it's removal. other than that, the car runs great, it's a helluva motor in that thing.

As for the Mustang vs. Dynojet thing, I'll 100% agree that when properly calibrated, Mustang dyno's reveal definitive real world numbers. But, the dynojet is still (for now) the industry standard. I have no doubts that on a dynojet this thing would have easily pulled 600 HP and close to if not more than 600 TQ (where you see the biggest disparity between numbers of the two dyno's).

P.S. You guys don't want to know how much timing this thing wanted. It wanted a freaking ton.

 

As for the fuel line slipping off the 2nd fuel pump. I'm assuming you're running dual walbro intank pumps....the last time I used the usual worm drive clamp on the outlet nipple it slipped off 3 times and left me stranded!!! Check the fuel pump outlet to see if you didn't lose the retaining ring. Its silver in color.

If the new ATI inlet is crap..I have have to go with a custom inlet or go with the Mufflex inlet.


-B

 

call911 give us a detailed Mod list, so we can compare setups

 

He's on limited internet access, so I'll fill ya in for him on what I can remember off teh top of my head:

383 LT1 (Lunati Sledgehammer Crank, Oliver Billett rods, custom Diamond pistons)
TPIS CNC LT1 AFR 180 heads (I believe they're 180's based on runner volume and flow numbers)
Custom Camshaft 244/254 @ .050, .578/.578 lift, 114* LSA
Hand ported intake manifold
Hooker Long Tubes
Hooker Y-Pipe
Borla Cat-Back
Lingenfelter 58mm TB (the gigantic brick one)
60# Injectors
M6 w/Moser 12 bolt and 3.73's
EPP Custom FMIC setup

 

i have the new inlet intake as well on my car and only picked up 2 psi, and 40 rwhp witout it. i mean it is a lot but still, no where near 110 rwhp.
for comparison sake my car made 640/595 with 14psi (no intake) and 600 even with the intake(12psi). The motor is a 383 with stock ported heads and cc305, 93 pump gas etc.
Marcin

 

i def. believe it could free up around 100 hp by taking filter and all off.
the orange hose and twin intercoolers are both restrictions. i bypassed the intercoolers and took the flex hose off and went from 14lbs to burrying the 20# gauge with an 8rib belt.

 

cant we just put a coupler & low profile filter on the inlet of the blower??

 

Run this one and you'll have that problem solved.

I still have to figure out how to run that huge filter but I'll get it on there one way or another. Or slap a K&N right off the inlet hat but that kinda scares me thinking the SC will suck it in.



Man I just realized you are running a pretty healthy cam. No emissions I assume?