ok so im trying to find a cam for my 383 rebuild supercharged lt1..
i researched and concluded that a blower cam overlap ideal range is 0 to +8. the higher the overlap the choppier the idle right?
i like a lope sound on a car but also want perfornance so i figured id go with a +6 overlap cam to stay within the range.
as far as power and torque range differences or any other differences what are they on these two cams?

224/236 112lsa

228/240 114lsa

Both have a +6 overlap

 

let me throw in one more cam for comparison..
230/238 114lsa that's still with a +6 overlap

 

You can't really just pick a cam based on overlap. Not only is valve timing critical when you're trying to make power but you also have to account for the size and weight of the valve train being used and that doesn't even begin to cover all the variables you need to know. IMO, call Martin at Tick Performance and let him spec something for you.

 

I too have a S_charged 97SS MM6. F1A. Lots of mods. Tried many cams. Now on the forth.
Cam Motion 231/240* @ 0.05/ .530/ .580 lift 114 lsa. About 8* overlap. Has a nice lope @ 1100 rpm idle. Very nice cam.
B.

 

How is that working out for you and what kind of exhaust do you have? reason I am asking is I run a smallish cam and think I have a sort of restrictive exhaust, but not sure it is worth changing.

 

Exhaust... Always a problem with street app. I run Pacesetter Ltubes with my own Y pipe (3") to a modded Mufflex 3 1/2" back thru a Spin tech. I have a 3 1/2" dump before the axle. It is a bit of noise, so, I am experimenting with CCI inserts. Two @ the collectors (a 2 disc) and one before the spin_tech (a 3 disc 3 1/2"). I have modded the exhaust alot.

There can be a lot of back pressure with the dump valve closed. I use 3/8-16unc threaded rod thru 1/2" tube welded @ the joints. Clamps don't do it and I have blown pipes loose.

I have destroyed the Qtp valve. Re built and modded by me. Bent the disc three times. Did my own now. It has survived the blast. Seals OK, but a big pressure wave from the blower.

The long tubes work very nice. A lot of work to rework the electrical with long tubes. F1A has alot more air flow than the previous D1. Both 9" scroll. I did my own F1A mount and belt tensioner. Took a while, but works good now.

New trans this Winter. Was the weak point.
Hve fun... B.

 

Yeah, we all have similar problems in the end. I blew up the QTP also and had to make a new disc from billet. The old one was fractured in half and blown out the tailpipe by me forgetting to open it at the track and it was all crystalized looking like it got cooked. I just rebuilt my trans late last summer, so I am interested to see how that will hold up, especially, since I am far from an ace transmission builder. Thanks for the info.