LT1 Block bored .030 over
3.48" Eagle 4340 Crank
5.7" Eagle H-beams (ARP 2000 upgrade)
Custom JE 23deg. Extreme Duty -31cc pistons
Hellfire Rings
Callies splayed 4-bolt mains
ARP head studs
ARP main studs
GM Extreme Duty Timing Chain
Fel-Pro head gaskets .039
Deck blocked to .006
Stock Unported Heads

That combo gives me a .045 quench and a 8.9:1 compression on stock heads (52cc).

Hoping to run up to 15psi on this set-up. Any suggestions and/or comments are greatly appreciated.

 

I'm curious...
Why the Eagle crank. Not saying it's bad, just asking what made you settle on that one in particular.
Also, was the 45 quench just how it worked out or were you aiming for it? Also just curiousity.
Finally, what sort of fuel were you planning on using?

 

Went with the Eagle crank because it's best bang for the buck. I've heard of numerous people people running high HP on these cranks.

The .045 quench worked out because of the Fel-pro gasket and the deck, also because I read a reliable quench for forced induction is somewhere .035-.045 max. I don't want to zero deck the block otherwise I could make it less.

I will be running pump gas with Snow Performance Meth Injection.

 

Looks pretty good.. I think you may have some trouble with the stock heads and 15 PSI, I hope you are planning on porting them. Also, the thin head deck could cause some problems with the heads lifting/ blown head gaskets with 15PSI of turbo boost!

You could also consider 1/2 filling the block ..

 

Yes, porting the heads is defintely in the plan (just a little later). I don't really plan to run 15psi if I don't have to. I'm looking to make over 500rwhp w/ stock heads, I'm just not sure how many psi it would take to reach that goal w/ a PT-76GTS.

 

Shouldnt have a problem hitting that goal with that setup! If at all possible I would recamend a little work on the exhaust side of the heads if you can squeeze it in!! It will make a HUG difference! The intake side is not as important cause your ramming the air into it! You might want to look into the cometic head gaskets. There pretty bad ars!!!!

 

I would ditch the GM extreme duty timing chain. Cloyes true roller will have less slack, better valve timing and cheaper.

 

A dude named Jeremy made 990 rwhp at 21-24 psi using stock ported heads.

 

Wow, that's awesome!

I've also seen people run 15 PSI on a stock motor for 100k miles. Then again, I've seen people not make it 100 miles after putting a blower on the stock motor with 6 PSI.

 

I thought a long time about this, and ultimately decided I didn't want to risk my engine by converting to an electric WP. I have heard too many horror stories.

 

If you're concerned about excessive slack with the Extreme Duty timing set, Thunder Racing sells a larger crank sprocket that will tighten the chain. I installed it along with the Extreme Duty timing set on my 95 Z28.

http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...vid=4&pcid=222

 

Awesome, yeah I think I'll pick one up.

 

Looks good to me. Personally I would go to a 3.5 stroke crank and mill the block to put the pistons .004-.007 out of the hole.

(That's how I did mine to end up with .032 quench with fel-pros).

Also, I've been having good results with the TNT gapless top rings (and CP pistons).

It used only 1/2 quart of oil driving to north carolina, running 199mph and driving it back, which I consider really good for this type of engine. (about 2k miles of driving besides a few mile runs).

 

What is your block decked to?

 

Thats very close to being exactly my setup.
Im running that but with fully ported heads and intake and 8 psi p1-sc. I was planning on pulling down to 13-15psi....but honestly, i dont know if i wanna be able to spin the tires anytime i want over a 100 mph. Right now i gotta be careful at 70mph


Oh i wouldn't run the GM perf timing set OR the cloyes true double roller. I have the cloyes and have had tons of issues with opti bearings....

long sory short, the opti sits up against the center of the timing set. cloyes timings sets are not machined to a certain precision on its thinkness becuase its not really made for a optispark car. well its just barely to thick causing a load on the optis bearings which will kill it in a matter of months.
I have gone through 3 optis in 8,000 miles so far and have temporary fixed this by shimming the opti.
Comp cams makes a double roller for the LT1...go with that.