Hey fellas,
I'm the new guy on here and I have a few questions for ya. I've been shooting this out there for a while now on NastyZ28.com and getting the answers from folks that seem to have the money. I'm a Cpl in the Marine Corps just so you guys and gals no what I mean when I say budget. I have a 80 Berlinetta that I got for $200 and a pat on the back as a gift after boot camp. It had the V6 and TH 200. Those are gone and have been since the day I got it. All the wires to the engine bay were cut at the bulkhead when I got it. My dad let me work off a old 350 and TH400 that he had in a 70's Chevy truck. I ripped it down on my boot leave to a happy surprise. The 4 bolt mains block was in stellar shape. Dad said something about a valve tick when he pulled it. He also gave me an old set of Double Hump heads. I don't know to much on them I took the apart and cleaned everything the best I could with wire brushes and PB Blaster.
Now yall know exactly what I have to work with. My goal for this project is 600 to the back tires. I plan is a twin turbocharged 383 that I'm trying to build and a t56 I'm gonna source from the junk yard. Everyone I've talked to so far has told me if I'm not gonna go all forged internals I'm just wasting my time and money. Personally I'm a little hard headed and need the opinion of another batch of gear heads.

 

The most boost you can get without forged parts is about 7psi. That will get you maybe 500 at the wheels. But I think the heads and intake on an older 350 aren't as good as the LT1, so you might not get 500.
Without forged parts also your tuning will have to be just right to make power without getting detonation that will break everything. Your tune would have to be conservative for safety, meaning less power. If I were you, with the engine already out...I would buy forged parts. About $1700 for a good rotating assembly. Although with stock sized cylinders (not bored over) you might have trouble finding stock sized pistons.

 

I feel ya man. I'm gonna have the block bored 30 over so I'm not too worried about that. I had some fella on the other forum I frequent telling me that I needed to look at getting an aftermarket block and start fresh from a brand new mill. I'm not saying no to that but I'm not up for blowing cash I don't need to be blowin. I want to get this car built to last but I dont need to make it bulit proof if it don't need it. ya know?

 

There's a guy that built something right up your alley. He called it the "time bomb" or something like that. It's a stock bottom-end 350, complete with 2-bolt mains and Badger pistons. The heads are unported double-humps. He is running 2 stock Buick GN turbo's and a small shot of nitrous and has been over 700 rwhp through an auto with no major engine failures yet. This project is covered in-depth on the turbomustangs.com forums.

My advice is to get some stock Mustang SVO Garrett turbo's instead. They will support nearly the same power, but have standard turbine inlet and outlet flanges. The Buick turbo has odd-ball inlet and outle turbine flanges that are hard to mate up to.

Mike

 

If you're getting it bored, I would get them to put in four-bolt mains too. That will be about $300 probably. I wouldn't worry about getting a new block. The shop can tell you if your block has any problems. I wouldn't worry about align honing the mains or decking it either. If you put new main bearings in and check the clearances with plastigauge, you can't get an exact clearance, but you will know if the clearances are all the same, which is what you want, and which is the most important part. (Stock is about 1 thousandth, some say 2 thousandths for high power, others say 3 thousandths; point being, I think as long as they're all equal you're good; and that's what I did on my rebuild.)
I think turboing is better overall, and I think it's cheaper too in the end as long as you can find someone who has a kit for your setup. That could be hard though, so you might have to go supercharged.
What you'd be looking at for a solid engine would be about $1700 rotating assembly, $500 block work, $100 Walbro fuel pump, $3000-$4000 turbo or supercharger. = about $6000. Add the fudge factor --> $7000. That doesn't include stronger transmission or rear end or driveshaft.
If you do it cheap: $300 block work, $100 pump, $4000 turbo or sc. = about $5000. If you really want something fast you don't have to worry about breaking I would wait until you have the cash and built it solid.

 

Hey guys i have the same car, except just the 350 no stroker. i was curious what the actual cost to SC it, the block is in good shape and i would be looking to run around 6psi of boost. Would this be a safe setup to run with a 100 shot of nitrous? I'm buying a 650cfm holley carb, would have to get a walbro too. Would i need to do any additional blockwork? i dont have a rotating assembly in the budget. Block has only 4000km.

Only other mods are mild comp cam, heads, highflow longtube headers, magnaflow 2.5" no cat dual exhaust.

 

If you are having it bored .030", then you need new pistons, so buy forged pistons and you should be good.

If you need help with the kit, let me know. I could make one for ya. Here is a partial hotparts T88 kit I made for a customer with a 74 Camaro:

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=680404

 

You definitely dont need twins for 6psi and if yer not forging the whole bottom end, I wouldnt bother. It will add too much cost. You need to be realistic with yourself in your build goals and decide now what yer end outcome really is. If you only want 6 psi just get a single turbo setup used or a supercharger. I actually just saw a procharger carb'd s/c setup on craigslist for $1k. Even a p600b will get you where you need to be, and cheaper second hand, and easier to find, but in the end its your build. Looking at your goals i would say find a used s/c and you'll get where you want to be cheaper, faster.

 

Oh i might've been a little unclear, no intention of putting on twins. I was thinking of a used S/C. Thanks for the input tho ill do some research on procharger carb'd s/c, a buddy of mines mustang uses procharger tuned 8psi and loves it, he has efi tho.

I think your right about not forging specific parts, if i get crazy i would forge the whole motor and stroke it, probably strip the s/c and in place a bigger shot for the jug.

 

Sorry, I just re-read my post and I dont know where I came up with that line about not forging the whole bottom end, I must've gotten sidetracked. Anyways, what i meant to say was if you are NOT going to be pushing over 10 psi or so, you can probably get away with only forged pistons, although I would look into some decent 4340 I-beams with ARP hardware. You wont need a forged crank yet. Sorry for the confusion bro.