Cant get more than 6# boost
Cant get more than 6# boost
Just finished install of ati 8# intercooled kit. It will hit 8# for a second in 1st gear, but any other gear it wont go over 6#. I think the air filter I am using may holding it back, it is a moroso cone, about 5 in. long. I was going to use my old k&n, but it wouldn't fit with the mufflex piping and the maf.
Also, cant get the fp over about 70 psi. I am not running the ati inline, only a wabro 255lph intank. I dont think it is leaning out, but dont know for sure.
Just curious if anyone had any ideas, I am pretty new to forced air (about 5 hours
)
Thanks
Also, cant get the fp over about 70 psi. I am not running the ati inline, only a wabro 255lph intank. I dont think it is leaning out, but dont know for sure.
Just curious if anyone had any ideas, I am pretty new to forced air (about 5 hours
)Thanks
For starters...... Did u get it tuned?
Where did u tap into for the vacuum line? When u shut the car off, does the surge valve move freely?
Also r u getting belt slippage? Check the tension. cause since it's a new belt, it will stretch.
And last.... Check through out ur system to make sure there is no oil-blow-by.
Where did u tap into for the vacuum line? When u shut the car off, does the surge valve move freely?
Also r u getting belt slippage? Check the tension. cause since it's a new belt, it will stretch.
And last.... Check through out ur system to make sure there is no oil-blow-by.
I havent had any tuning done, just kinda "feeling" it out at the moment.
I got my vacum source on the side of the intake where the egr sol. gets it's vacum.
The surge valve moves freely.
Not loosing much oil, but a little is blowing out the oil filler cap.
The belt seems tight enough. From what I have been told it needs to be as loose as possible as to not kill the blower bearings. I have about 1/2" movement in the belt.
One more question, this thing sounds like wholly hell at idle. The guy I got it from said it sounds normal. It is a p600b, sounds like bearing noise when the car is idling, but the case isnt getting hot, I guess it may be normal?
Stevie Whitley
I got my vacum source on the side of the intake where the egr sol. gets it's vacum.
The surge valve moves freely.
Not loosing much oil, but a little is blowing out the oil filler cap.
The belt seems tight enough. From what I have been told it needs to be as loose as possible as to not kill the blower bearings. I have about 1/2" movement in the belt.
One more question, this thing sounds like wholly hell at idle. The guy I got it from said it sounds normal. It is a p600b, sounds like bearing noise when the car is idling, but the case isnt getting hot, I guess it may be normal?
Stevie Whitley
well, u should get it tuned. I got over 170 rwhp just cause of tuning.
And U should use ur brake booster for a vacuum source. that way u know u r getting vacuum.
Give keith a call at FFP, 530-775-0337 and order a vacuum tree, they are about $20 and u can connect ur surge valve line, and ur vac/boost gage to it.
And the bearing noise is normal, it's just the way ATI made them. but when u get to about 900 rpm's it goes away. and at 1700 rpms it has a beautiful whistle.
And U should use ur brake booster for a vacuum source. that way u know u r getting vacuum.
Give keith a call at FFP, 530-775-0337 and order a vacuum tree, they are about $20 and u can connect ur surge valve line, and ur vac/boost gage to it.
And the bearing noise is normal, it's just the way ATI made them. but when u get to about 900 rpm's it goes away. and at 1700 rpms it has a beautiful whistle.
What kind of setup do you have to get 170 hp out of tuning?
You dont need to use the brake booster line as a source, vacuum is vacuum. It all comes from the same place.
I had ran the car without the air flilter and with the bypass valve unhooked. I didn't have a boost gauge in it at the time, but it was much faster, which is why I thought it may be my air filter.
You dont need to use the brake booster line as a source, vacuum is vacuum. It all comes from the same place.
I had ran the car without the air flilter and with the bypass valve unhooked. I didn't have a boost gauge in it at the time, but it was much faster, which is why I thought it may be my air filter.
everything in the SIG, but I was only at 4-5#'s before tuning. and i dynod at 354rwhp. and so I got a new pulley, and tuned it. then dynoed it again, and it was 477rwhp.
And I know vacuum is vacuum, but don't u think it would be better to get it direct from the source.
Also u should get a boost/vac gage, along with a F/P gage. thoughs are 2 of the most important gages, when u got a charger.
And I know vacuum is vacuum, but don't u think it would be better to get it direct from the source.
Also u should get a boost/vac gage, along with a F/P gage. thoughs are 2 of the most important gages, when u got a charger.
If you have the "dryer hose" for the intake to the blower, it may be collapsing while you are building boost. You can make your own Vaccum tree from parts you can buy at a local hardware store for much cheaper than $20. If you are not running an FMU your fuel pressure isn't going to get that high. The Walboro intank pump is a great idea, and you shouldn't need an FMU with bigger injectors. Racetronics Walboro setup will support over 600 rwhp.
Bill
Bill
If it's spitting oil out of the dipsick plug, your crankcase isn't properly ventilated. Cap the vacuum connection on the throttle body or you're boosting where the oil goes, too. That's why it spits from the dipstick plug. Hope this helps.
JR
JR
8#s on a stock LT1 with no tuning, injectors, or FMU... Never had any experience with the motor, but i do have one sitting in the garage. It's sitting because of all the horror/scatter stories I hear about pressurizing on a stock bottom end...
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