Boom #10...... I like how you keep score.

I have my own personal toy box with broken rods, valves, springs, gears & too many others to mention. It is interesting to see how many things I have broken over the past 20 years. If I had all that money back, my house would be paid for......

Too bad we all can't be product test engineers that get paid to try to break things instead of footing the bill for our own testing.

 

Would there be a down side to ordering my crank with a big block crank snout? Would a(regular) big block hub fit?

 

What about the crank sproket for the timing gear? Anyone know if they make one that fits BB chevy snout and the LT1?

--Sean

 

Seems to me the easiest solution is the hub with a big block OD and a small block ID. Even the thin seal is a NAPA part, and so is easy to get (p/n 22306). Get the hub and modified cover from Lonnie, a spare seal to replace the one you'll booger up, and you're good to go

 

What is the cost of the ATI sb hub where do you get the key.
what is the cost of the AtI bb hub where do you get the keys.

 

Yeah, but for the guys that want to eventulally run really big #'s, the BB snout on the crank would be even better. Does ATI make a hub with the BB ID and OD? Then does anybody make a timing gear to go along with?

I am looking at going this route, but don't want to end up like Willie.

Anybody know?

 

What exactly do you want???

ATi does the big block OD with SB ID.

 

I want to run a BBC snout- not just a hub that has a BBC od and SBC id. All BBC.

That way you don't have to worry about snapping the snout off the crank like what Willie did. The hub that you have will keep the hub from breaking, but maybe not the crank snout.

 

I wouldn't worry to much about snapping off a crank snout. That crank had to be deffective. I think Willie feels the same way, hence the class action lawsuit.

Anyhow, I just spun my factory hub/balancer assembly off the crank last night for the second time.

Even with all the Loc-Tite I could get on the dang bolt, it still backed out. I bought a new factory hub today at a Chevy dealer for $67 with tax included.
I'm gonna drop it off at the machine shop tomorrow, and have a keyway machined into it. I have an Eagle crank, that allready has the keyway cut into the snout, so it's ready to go.

I hope this doesn't break. Pray for me guys.

 

I snapped an Eagle Crank snout right off once already..

--Sean

 

Make sure the machine shop does not bore out the end of the hub so they can broach the keyway all the way through...... it will weaken the hub & may cause it to fail.

To machine it correctly, the key needs to be bored to the blind end of the bore.... EDM works well here.

 

DAMN!!! Are you serious?! Which crank were you using Sean?

 

Thanks Lonnie!

 

I don't know the part # off the top of my head, but it was a 4340 forged one.. I blame it on the tensioner from Procharger..

--Sean

 

Exactly my point.....it's not as uncommon as one might think. That's why I asked the question I asked!!