A pic is worth a thousand words.

After a week or two or pondering why I dont have a bracket connecting my far end procharger bracket to my cyl head... I made one and it's in there.

Now, I watch 97WS6Pilot video and what do I see?? A BRACKET connecting the EXACT SAME AREA.

Is that stock from Procharger?

 

I forgot about that old video I posted in March 2007. It has a nice shot of the brace that goes from the procharger bracket to the front header bolt. Its from SDCE as well as a couple of other braces that come with the setup. Sorry don't have pics of those and I'm away from home for while. Here is a thumbnail for the video.

Click here to see Video

 

Just glad I saw your video then I glimpsed at that and was like.. huh I didnt think I was alone with that thought!

 

So today after making all the "improvements" I destroyed the new $90 belt within just 2-3 WOT runs!! YEAY!!!

I havent inspected it yet but pretty sure the same thing happened as last time with no evidence of what went wrong (same exact timing, events + sounds).

Keep in mind I had 0 problems with the undersized crank pulley, now changed to standard size and only lasts ~3 WOT runs, its fine when driving normal, belt rides near center of the idler pulley, pullies are in line.

Aside from changing to a new tensioner and adding more bracing is there anything else that could help like maybe a BOV in the ducting to take care of the WOT + closing of the throttle blades?

So far I:
1) Installed new bearings in the idler pulley which were very worn
2) Added a brace connecting the top outer edge of the procharger bracket and the open head exhaust bolt.
3) Added a mechanical stop to limit the return of the tensioner...
4) Belt tension was below the first notch... not sure where it's suppose to be.

Now I will:
1) Install bracing to the front of the procharger across the bottom and across the outer side as seen in the pics somewhere posted in this link.
2) Consider installing metal belt guides in an attempt to keep the belt on track in the event of excessive slack, or whatever the problem is... probably not really do-able though.

I bet this is more problematic woith the M6 cars.

This is getting expensive real fast... please help if you can!! Thank you!!

 

Jeez $90 for a 12 rib is highway robbery. The 8 ribs are only $12 at Napa and come in about 20 different sizes. Is something not aligned right? Did you check the pulleys with a straight edge?

 

I read somewhere someone runs two 6 rib and works great... Im trying that for sure.

Just noticed it only jumped 2 ribs instead of 8, so now it's 10 rib, that might work for awhile, so it is better since last time it jumped 8 ribs in one WOT run, this time it lasted about 3 and only lost 2 ribs.
Everything aligned perfectly, as long as I dont WOT to redline it's fine, no wear on the edges, etc. when it goes it's instantly after a WOT run, happened both times now, everything else seems fine.

It is moving towards the front, so Im wondering if the belt is pulling that hard on the charger which would tilt the charger pulley in the direction the belt is sliding, but no way to know for sure.

Guess I have to take it all apart and build up bracing and try it again.

Fun.

Cant imagine this is entirely a design problem because everyone would be having problems with it, still wondering if I just dont have the tensioner tight enough, the alignment mark on the arm is barely outside of the two lines on the spring housing but I have a hard stopper holding the tensioner from coming back much farther than when it's not running.

Maybe I can also try slightly shorter belt but the one I've been using isnt that long, same belt had more slack with the smaller crank pulley.

 

Trying to keep communication in the thread, this was sent in an email... proves my point. Anyone? What's the advantage of designing loose bearings inside of a housing that are infact allowed to spin? I see no advantage. Im wondering since it's annodized if the annodize treatments simply isnt thick enough so the bearings are loose.


Quote:
"Originally Posted by Prorac1
Unfortunately my rear bearing spun in the pulley, and isnt a press fit anymore, it will work for now (cause theyre e cliped in there), but it will have to be replaced. Thanks Eric L"

If your pulley is the same as mine and Im pretty sure it is, both bearings will slide right in and out all the way by just gravity as long as all the grease, buildup, and knicks from getting the c-clip out are removed.

I was thinking it was just the bearings that were slightly smaller, but the brand new bearings slid right in from the opening all the way to the lip that stops them!! Yes there were signs of bearing slip but they are no looser there than in the opening of the pulley...

This was the whole point of this thread.. bad design!

 

The inside of my pulley was originally black. It still was on the one that was a slight press in fit, the other one definately spun in the pulley. I think you need a new pulley. Mind you, when I say a "slight" press fit, I mean I took an appropriately sized socket and lightly tapped it in with the handle of a screwdriver. I think the looseness of your bearing clearences and the amount of boost your pushing (10psi) is just enough to cause the idler pulley to "tweak" under load and momentarily bind up, causing your belt to skip. But like I said, my "good" bearing surface was a press fit. Hope this helps, Prorac1

 

Yea I could see the spun part being loose, but my new and even old bearings are as loose in the entire pulley as they are where they are c-clipped in.

Im wondering if it's plain old loose to start with, must be if the bearings simply slip all the way in under their own weight. I used loctite around them to help snug them up a bit, probably wont help.

Because of this Im afraid to order new and have it just as loose. Ahh well I could probably return it if it's unused.

Thanks for the info!

 

The bearings slip in because the pulley is shot, you need a new pulley. My bearings press in. Eric L

 

Ok, you proved my pulley was designed wrong, or a bad part originally.

If your bearings press in even in the area that the bearings dont sit once installed then you have different clearances than I do, my bearings slide in and out all the way, not just where they sat spinning (they didnt spin anywhere but the installed position).

For the originals and brand new bearings to slip right in from the area where nothing is tells me the pulley is simply wrong from the get go.

I didnt think this was right, thanks!!

 

So how much quieter does the blower get changing over to the SDCE setup? I keep hearing it gets a lot quieter. My F1 is LOUD and I like it that way and don't want to lose that signature sound.

So 97WS6Pilot, how quiet did yours become?

 

Curious how brackets could silence the blower? Is this really true? Unless the flimsy bracket is amplifying the blower sound, that's a possibility.

 

It has to be true. Listen to his clip vs mine. He's an F1A Click here to see Video Click here to see Video and mine an F1 http://www.fquick.com/videos/viewvideo.php?id=5775 .

 

Not sure but I think mine is quieter because I have a glass pack silencer on the bypass valve. I don't think the SDCE did anything as far as sound.