Exhaust System From headers to exhaust tips

Thinking about Kooks headers

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Old Feb 29, 2008 | 06:32 AM
  #61  
Rhett's Avatar
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From: Jackson, MI
I used the 1" Stage 8's when I installed mine. I wasn't able to get all of the lock washers on (probably got 3/4 of them on). Also had to file a few of them to fit properly against the primaries. All in all I like them and didn't find that they weren't too much more of a hassle than the rest of the install (which I didn't mind). Regardless of what style bolt you get, just make sure to get the 1" long ones because of the thick flanges on the Kooks.

While your in there, might as well put new motor mounts in and a rag joint eliminator.......


Bill, my bracket on my y-pipe fit with out any issues other than a pain in the butt to line up, but it fit without tweaking.
Old Feb 29, 2008 | 07:39 AM
  #62  
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From: Cypress, TX
Originally Posted by Green96Z
[...]Oh yea, and don't forget beer. You're gonna need it.
Thanks so much - you and Bill have been incredibly helpful.

And a thanks to Rhett for the engine mounts reminder - since the tranny is out, it'll be easier to change those out. Also, thanks for the hint about the rag eliminator - I would have NEVER considered that (actually, never knew about that mod).
Old Feb 29, 2008 | 08:40 AM
  #63  
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BTC
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From: Lansing, MI via Bowling Green, KY: Dalton, GA: Nashville, TN & Atlanta, GA
Originally Posted by Rhett
Bill, my bracket on my y-pipe fit with out any issues other than a pain in the butt to line up, but it fit without tweaking.
That's weird because I could not get mine lined up. I'll probably try again whenever I'm back in Kentucky. I did have a new cat put several years ago by Midas, so maybe they got something out of whack under there. I really like my headers and the GMMG exhaust. It all went in without any problems, except for that bracket, which is minor.

Definitely get 1" bolts. I don't know how thick the flanges are on the Kooks, but they're pretty thick. 3/4" bolts would be too short, imo.
Old Feb 29, 2008 | 03:57 PM
  #64  
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I also recommend the 1" bolts. I had an LT1 mechanic (works on Vettes all the time) tell me he was surprised to see such thick flanges on headers. Here's some pics of my OTVC setup:





And here's how I routed the wires around the alternator:


For the bracket, I found that the old y-pipe has threads in the holes, while the Kooks one doesn't. So I just used some old bolts and nuts (I think they came off for the header install, not sure though).

Another thing, there is a single wire grounded to the block on the passenger side. Be careful not to break it! I did and had to crimp a new end on it.

Make sure you have some swivel joints and various sized extensions, they help in the cramped spaces.
Old Feb 29, 2008 | 04:12 PM
  #65  
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From: Cypress, TX
Originally Posted by Green96Z
I also recommend the 1" bolts. [snipped]
Thanks for the additional photos and info. I placed the order with Summit:

Part # Item Price
FPP-1470 EXHAUST GASKET $34.95
LCT-37616 COPPER ANTISEIZE STICK $3.95
MFY-5035613 WIRE LOOMS CNTR BLT V/C RED $42.99
MSD-32129 WIRE SET CHEV LT1 STR BOOT $119.70
PTP-7-1909 MOTOR MOUNT KIT $71.99

... which has shipped today. They wont ship the Percy split header bolts until April, so I'll have to make do with "standard" header bolts and just be sure to check them every now and then.

That's the Fel-Pro gaskets, Make4You horiz wire looms, MSD made-to-fit-LT1 wires, and Prothane Motor/Trannny Mount Kit


BTW ... you mentioned something about beer ... Summit didnt show to stock that item (?)
Old Feb 29, 2008 | 04:49 PM
  #66  
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Just so you know.I used the gaskets supplied with the Kooks.They worked really well. Also,both sides slid in from the bottom without a problem. They are a quality header.I had coated Hookers that rotted out after 2 years.

Last edited by joeSS97; Feb 29, 2008 at 04:52 PM.
Old Feb 29, 2008 | 05:03 PM
  #67  
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From: Cypress, TX
Originally Posted by joeSS97
Just so you know.I used the gaskets supplied with the Kooks.They worked really well. Also,both sides slid in from the bottom without a problem. They are a quality header.I had coated Hookers that rotted out after 2 years.
That's a shame to hear about the Hookers. Back when I was in
high-school (early 70's) and everyone built cars, Hookers were
THE [only] game in town.

It's the same with B&M - they were THE auto-tranny products.
Now, it's all about the bottom line, so their products have slipped
(think assembly-line operation with minimum wage workers).

Thanks for the hints ... with all the great info I'm getting from folks,
the header install ought to go quite easy (not as easy as it was
with my '69 Z)
Old Feb 29, 2008 | 06:31 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by joeSS97
Just so you know.I used the gaskets supplied with the Kooks.They worked really well. Also,both sides slid in from the bottom without a problem. They are a quality header.I had coated Hookers that rotted out after 2 years.
I'm pretty sure you can slide in the race headers, but I had emissions fittings on mine and the EGR pipe got in the way. Jacking up one side of the engine really isn't that hard, and it opens up a TON of space. I just used the Fel-Pro's because they were recommended.

Originally Posted by caldercay
BTW ... you mentioned something about beer ... Summit didnt show to stock that item (?)
If I could order beer off of Summit, I would never leave my room .

Really the only reason my Percy gaskets blew out was the bolts weren't torqued enough. Hard to get leverage on a dinky 5/16 combination wrench (which is all I had at the time). So I picked up one of these and it did the trick:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...43919&sLevel=0
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