I made my Borla sound much better when I combined it with a SLP 2OTL. The sound of the SLP with the adjustability of the Borla. Been rocking this setup since 97 or 98. Best of both worlds. Mine looks like a dual/dual from behind.

 

Nice tip ...so you put the 2OTL ...on the right? Any pics? Don't go to any trouble just for me though because I'm pretty dead set on duals at this point. If you already have any or any vids / sound clips feel free to show them off though. Nice pic btw.

 

I might be able to dig up an old sound clip, just have to find it. I am running a Borla intermediate pipe and over the axle pipe into the 2OTL muffler/tail pipes. I used part of the SLP intermediate pipe for the passenger side. Then a SLP passenger side tip was welded on to that. I'm using a custom 3 1/2" hole plate that I made most of the time. Used to run the small hole Borla plate but that kept setting off alarms so I toned it down some.

 

Well I've decided to go with true duals but I am meticulous about planning and picking the mufflers I'd like, so it will be months away. In the meantime I'm going to go to Lowe's and pick up some perforated steel mesh or something to make a crude silencer with. I'm shooting to roughly approximate the functionality of this:



Figure that will work well enough and accomodate the bend in the tailpipe right after the E-valve / flange. Not like it has to flow well as I'm using the E-valve just slightly open anyway.

 

UPDATE:

I have some good news! Lowe's did not have any steel mesh that would be appropriate to use as an exhaust silencer. Sooooo ....I have this "modder's mesh" left over from another project (I opened up my fake hood scoops to vent underhood heat). I'll show a link at the end of this post. I took the mesh and rolled it into a 2.75" outer diameter roll (1 ft long). Then I wrapped it up with fine steel wool really well ($4.00 from Lowe's and didn't need all of it). Finally I used some chicken wire end to end inside and out and around it in general to hold the wool onto the outside of the roll of mesh. This left about a 1.5" wide open tunnel in the roll of mesh, plus it wasn't wrapped particularly tight ...so the flow is bound to be "ok" at least. I removed the right tailpipe just where it meets up with the bypass and carefully stuffed it into the tailpipe from there.

Now with the bypass wide open it sounds even milder than it did with the smallest plate in ....milder and better. Machine gun sound and rasp are greatly reduced. With my E-valve about half open it sounds IDEAL, the right tailpipe balances closesly in DB with the left tailpipe, making it sound somewhat like true duals. I can actually say it sounds "good" now ...not as good as true duals but it is mellow yet aggressive. Interior drone is reduced as well.

For those who will be critical of it due to lack of flow, I am not concerned. Having the silencer installed with the E-valve open more is BOUND to flow better than having the E-valve barely cracked open with no silencer. Less exhaust gases have to turn around at the bypass junction now. I realize it will hurt flow some when wide open but don't care ...I hardly ever run it that way on the street and the silencer will easily come out for track use (also hardly ever do).

So for those looking for a similar fix to the "Classic Borla rasp/machine gun/fart/glasspack/drone/resonation problems" ....well ...I found this method to work very well and it cost next to nothing, no cutting ...no welding .....ANYONE could do it. So here's the left over mesh I used but you could use anything similar:

http://www.mnpctech.com/moddersmesh.html

 

Very cool and innovative way to tweak your exhaust sound to the way you want it. Nice work, you should post a sound clip if you can. I also am going to do the stock heat extractor mod on my OEM hood with the same mesh, can't wait for that

 

Thats pretty cool. You got to get some vids before and after, i know its a hassle tho. But very cool.

 

I really don't think you'd be able to tell much difference in a vid, I don't have a good camcorder anyway. This is easy enough to try and undo if you don't like it.

94QuasarZ, if you do the heat extractor mod ...just know that it's going to take a lot of time and effort to do it right and make it look nice. PM me if you want assistance with it, I can give some tips. At some point if it ever stops raining I'll post pics in my user profile, I really like it. I started by cutting the openings out with a box cutter knife. Then smoothed it out VERY carefully with a dremel, files, sandpaper, masking, bondo, primer, paint, clearcoat ...it's a lot of work. I cut grooves with the dremel so the mesh can "snap" into place, that way it can be easily removed/replaced/painted/whatever ...right now I have it bare with silicone to reduce oxidation. I used gunmetal metallic paint for the 1/2 inch edge leading up to the opening. It looks "good" but I'm not quite finished. Will finish with some wet sanding and additional coats, followed by a thin pinstripe to cover the paint edge.

Also you'll want to paint the brackets with a flat universal black touch up paint so they don't show very much behind the mesh.

Plan for ~20 hours or so if you want to take it to this degree. Go slowly and carefully with all cutting/grinding and look at it inside and out as you to it so you won't remove too much.

 

Canbaufo, I appreciate your willingness to assist me with this project. I do want to take my time and do it right, I'll be more than willing to take whatever input you give me. I went to a junkyard this past weekend and got a spare set of hood vents that I'm going to try this on and get right before I do it (if I need to do it) on my current hood vents that I have. I'll PM you more details about it. Don't mean to hijack this thread, don't wanna come across that way.

Again, nice work with the exhaust, that is a cool and different way to fab up a resonator or whatever you'd call that thing. I might hit you up on how to do that too when I get LTs if my setup becomes too raspy. I see you're from Charleston, WV, I'm originally from Clarksburg myself. Nice to see people on here reppin' WV, take care, man. Talk to you soon.


Blake

 

No prob. Something I forgot to mention is that I recommend you cut/install the mesh so that the flat edge butts against the top of the vent (you'll see what I mean once you get the mesh). This entails cutting the '2 x '1 sheet of honeycomb mesh right down the middle because there is just BARELY enough material to reach the width of the two 11.5" wide openings (or buy two '1 x '1 sheets). I can take mine off and e-mail you some pics ...not quite finished anyway.