Thanks for the input guys, I'll take a look at the Mac mid headers as you've suggested but I'm still leaning towards long tube ones (not sure why, I think it's the look). No data on the quality of the Dynatech stuff?

Anyhow, as for my Camaro, it has a Flowmaster muffler and outlet pipes but I'm not sure if it's a full catback (I haven't had the time to crawl under it and look). I doubt that it is a full catback based on my impression of the seller (sort of a "minimal cost" kind of guy). I've had the car for about 3 months and it came with the muffler; I'm just looking ahead for the need to do a tune up. Also, I know it has both precats and I was kind of looking at the long tube sets to sort of eliminate those as well but I was trying to sort of stay as a direct bolt on setup; I guess I won't be able to really have both (bolt-on and long tube). As for emissions regulations, I don't have to meet any at the moment and unless FL changes thier rules I won't have to for awhile so I'm still considering the setups that remove emissions controls. I noticed that the Dynatech set I looked at online had bungs for O2 sensors but not for the EGR pipe. I know when I removed the EGR stuff on my Stealth I had issues with it on the stock ECU, will I have the same problems with the Camaro on the stock ECU?

 

With a 96 you will throw a code for removing emissions systems. There are a few approaches that you can take. One is to get a tune and call it a day. the other is to get 02 sims and place a resistor where your EGR was plugged in. Both would cost about the same so you might as well get the tune seeing as though it will also add additional performance.

 

Can you elaborate what you mean when you say "get a tune?" Is the stock ECU flash programmable or will I need a piggyback controller? Please keep in mind, when it comes to aftermarket tuning, I'm still a little one sided (import); don't take that the wrong way though, I've worked on cars for about 15 years (started as a job, now as a hobby and to help friends out) but when it comes to builds and tuning I've barely messed with it; the Stealth is my first.

 

Yes the PCM can be reflashed with a new tune.
Ion or Brian can do this for you.

 

Dont buy pace setter! Ive helped install a couple sets of these and wow they are junk IMO. I really like the SLP's.

 

By that I mean you can send your pcm in to be recalibrated for the new parts that have been installed on the car. The person doing the tune can also delete codes such as the EGR or AIR codes from the pcm so you won't get a SES light. As said above two good ones are Brian (PCMforless) and Ion (MAD----, I don't know the full name ). Brian tuned mine when I did headers and gears and updated it again when I did the 503 cam and did an excellent job both times. There are many things these guys can play with through the pcm.

 

What would I need to be able reprogram it myself?

 

LT1 edit. Not sure how much it costs though. There may be a few other programs as well. They all cost more than a mail order tuen though.

Dan

 

LT-1 Edit for 96-97 OBDII is 450.00 for 1 vin and can be found at

http://www.carputing.com/

Tunercat OBDII for same was briefly available for 389.00
with unlimited vins but was sold to Jet and vin locked with a higher price.

 

Hmm, just a bit more than I was wanting to spend for a computer program I may only use once or twice. Does anyone on here have it for personal use and find it to be worth the $450? How difficult is the program to work with? Will it also program out the skip-shift as well? If I use LT-1 Edit to delete something such as the EGR or Air codes, can I later put them back in?

 

You can save your original file first then make changes and save that.
You can always reflash to or start with your original file.
I have unlimited updates with MadZ28.
If I make major changes I can have a tune emailed to me
and use LT-1 Edit to load it.
First there was my S/C and 30# injectors, then the cam and heads and the 58mm TB.
Myself I've taken Ion's tune and added 2 degrees more advance in the tables due to my 9.75 cr which worked great, and lowered the fan temperatures.
I also increased the 1-2 shift at 12.5% TB from 10 to 15
so I'd have more time to hang it in first.

I have my original tune,
HPP3 tune saved then unit sold.
S/C tune w 30# injectors.
S/C heads, cam 30# injectors tune
as above with higher first shift and 2 deg advance.

LT-1 Edit for OBDII is somewhat expensive but it does have it's advantages.
If I was racing my car it would be even more handy.

 

Thanks for the info, just ordered mine...

 

i paid 200 for my pace setter mids off ebay and another 125 to have them coated. easy install (except for teh fact that i have a 97 and i bought 94 headers and had to custom up my own y-pipe) very easy to access plugs (i dont have to get ANY from under the car (with a shortened plug socket and a ratchet wrench), emissions legal, and they have decent gians. very cheap, very easy access, easy to install...what else do you need?

if i had it to do again, i'd go with the eddelbrock TES headers, and get the right year model for my car. i dont like long tubes because you have to re-route the fuel lines under the car, and you may have to modify the y-pipe with a BFH to get it to fit.

 

Smart man.

 

Does the LT-1 Edit program allow you to log on it?


I keep hearing conflicting things about Pacesetter parts, for those who've had experience with them, why do you consider them good/bad? Is it just the fact that they are not coated and rust? Are there manufacturing flaws?