yank ss3200 or ss3600?
06-16-2014, 09:36 PM
#3
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Euclid,Ohio
Posts: 424
Re: yank ss3200 or ss3600?
you shouldn't have great traction now with 3.73 gears.
3.73s' and SS3600 is probably the most popular combination.
why get a SS3200 and then wish you had gone more to a SS3600.
with my SS3600(even though I'm LS1),I've run both 4.56s' and 3.23s' and either one was completely streetable.
lack of traction is dependent upon the right foot.
get a set of LCA relocation brackets.
3.73s' and SS3600 is probably the most popular combination.
why get a SS3200 and then wish you had gone more to a SS3600.
with my SS3600(even though I'm LS1),I've run both 4.56s' and 3.23s' and either one was completely streetable.
lack of traction is dependent upon the right foot.
get a set of LCA relocation brackets.
06-17-2014, 05:35 PM
#5
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Euclid,Ohio
Posts: 424
Re: yank ss3200 or ss3600?
I've had my Z for 13 years now,always wanted a Z,didn't want an SS,and was looking for a 6 speed. Ran across an auto Z for $4000 less than what was the typical price for an LS1 Z with 6 speed and grabbed it,no regrets.
I've got 179,000 miles on it,do a lot of travelling. Engine is stock as I don't want any reliability issues because of the extensive travelling.
I work on rearends(since the 60s',yes I'm old),one of the few not afraid to work on gears.
From 2001 o 2006,convertor and gears(3.23) were stock. Strip times were 13.80s'.
In 2006 I put a TCI 2800(stock off the shelf at Summit) convertor,convertor was very loose on the street and no change in 1/4 times or traction.
Eventually worked my way down to 13.70s'.
In 2007 I put a 4.56 rearend in and times went to 13.20s' consistently. 4.56s' are too much for the 1/4 and traction lessened. !st and 2nd gear were vicious.
In 2011,put a Yank SS3600 convertor in,very tight and good streetability,but traction was totally gone. Didn't run it with the 4.56s'/SS3600.
In 2012 put the 3.23 rearend back in,convertor still tight on the street and 'feels' like 12s'.
Building another rear,either gonna be 3.42,3.73,4.10,still undecided. But if gas prices continue,who knows?,maybe 3.08 or 2.73.
Along the way,tires have bee improved too. Started out with the optional Z tires,next were SLP SS take-off rims and tires(275/40/17),next were Nitto 555,then Nitto 555 RII Extreme on rear,currently running Nitto 555 315/35/17 drag radials on rear for everyday use AND travelling.
3 things I've learned
-suspension components need upgrading for traction.
-4.56s'/auto is too steep a gear for the strip.
-don't 'cheap out' on a convertor.
I've got 179,000 miles on it,do a lot of travelling. Engine is stock as I don't want any reliability issues because of the extensive travelling.
I work on rearends(since the 60s',yes I'm old),one of the few not afraid to work on gears.
From 2001 o 2006,convertor and gears(3.23) were stock. Strip times were 13.80s'.
In 2006 I put a TCI 2800(stock off the shelf at Summit) convertor,convertor was very loose on the street and no change in 1/4 times or traction.
Eventually worked my way down to 13.70s'.
In 2007 I put a 4.56 rearend in and times went to 13.20s' consistently. 4.56s' are too much for the 1/4 and traction lessened. !st and 2nd gear were vicious.
In 2011,put a Yank SS3600 convertor in,very tight and good streetability,but traction was totally gone. Didn't run it with the 4.56s'/SS3600.
In 2012 put the 3.23 rearend back in,convertor still tight on the street and 'feels' like 12s'.
Building another rear,either gonna be 3.42,3.73,4.10,still undecided. But if gas prices continue,who knows?,maybe 3.08 or 2.73.
Along the way,tires have bee improved too. Started out with the optional Z tires,next were SLP SS take-off rims and tires(275/40/17),next were Nitto 555,then Nitto 555 RII Extreme on rear,currently running Nitto 555 315/35/17 drag radials on rear for everyday use AND travelling.
3 things I've learned
-suspension components need upgrading for traction.
-4.56s'/auto is too steep a gear for the strip.
-don't 'cheap out' on a convertor.
06-17-2014, 06:57 PM
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 33
Re: yank ss3200 or ss3600?
Thanks for all the info. Lets say I stay on the 275 street tires for now, but upgraded suspension. Would 373 and 3600 be ok? If I bought the 3200 and gained only .2-.3 tenths that may be disappointing but streetability is important.
06-17-2014, 08:34 PM
#7
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Euclid,Ohio
Posts: 424
Re: yank ss3200 or ss3600?
those unfamiliar with convertors seem to think that the stall rating is what you gotta get the rpm up to to get the car moving.TOTALLY WRONG THOUGHT PROCESS !!!
OEM factory convertors are about 1800rpm stall and you don't have to take the rpm up to 1800 to get the car moving,SAME with a quality custom stall. If you're at a stop and you take your foot off the brake,your car will start rolling,SAME with a quality custom stall. If you're at a stop and do/go wide open throttle,your tach should immediately jump(flash) to about 1800. If you're at a stop with,let's say a Yank SS3600, and do/go wide open throttle,the tach would immediately jump(flash) to about 3600. That immediately puts you at a better/higher part of the engines' powerband,instead of having to start at 1800. Same things occur at shifts.
I hope this explains a little.
If I had went to an SS4000 instead of the SS3600,its' city driving street manners would still be the same as a SS3600 or the OEM 1800.
It's important to go with a quality custom stall from Yank or CircleD,both are very helpful and will guide you.
OEM factory convertors are about 1800rpm stall and you don't have to take the rpm up to 1800 to get the car moving,SAME with a quality custom stall. If you're at a stop and you take your foot off the brake,your car will start rolling,SAME with a quality custom stall. If you're at a stop and do/go wide open throttle,your tach should immediately jump(flash) to about 1800. If you're at a stop with,let's say a Yank SS3600, and do/go wide open throttle,the tach would immediately jump(flash) to about 3600. That immediately puts you at a better/higher part of the engines' powerband,instead of having to start at 1800. Same things occur at shifts.
I hope this explains a little.
If I had went to an SS4000 instead of the SS3600,its' city driving street manners would still be the same as a SS3600 or the OEM 1800.
It's important to go with a quality custom stall from Yank or CircleD,both are very helpful and will guide you.
06-18-2014, 06:07 AM
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Euclid,Ohio
Posts: 424
Re: yank ss3200 or ss3600?
you've already reduced your traction with the 3.73s' and city driving is still good/excellent with the 3.73s'. Putting a SS3600 won't change your city driving or city traction,but it'll be a beast only when you want it to.
Since you're talking about SS3200 and SS3600,which are Yanks,send my post responses to them and see if they agree.
Since you're talking about SS3200 and SS3600,which are Yanks,send my post responses to them and see if they agree.
06-18-2014, 09:53 AM
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 33
Re: yank ss3200 or ss3600?
Daves response from yank last month- Mark they are both very drivable with the 3.73 gears I would use our SS3600 and a good set of drag radials. It will net 2-3 more tenths at the track over the 3200.
I just worry about traction but like you said, its already bad. I also thought the lt1 torque band started lower though
I just worry about traction but like you said, its already bad. I also thought the lt1 torque band started lower though
