Well im going to the track this weekend and and i am going to be mounting some E.T street (almost a full slick for those of you who dont know) all i have done is full 3'catback and cold air and it is a six speed. i really cant aford to break it and with the stock 17 by 9.5 with goodyear gsd3 on them all i do is just spin and pull 2.5 60 foots and thats me rolling into it. well any input would help thanks

 

More than likely.

 

Its gunna either be your clutch or your rear end.

 

Are you seriouse they are that week? that make me alittle upset

 

i would agree. it's hard, but work on those lauches. stock suspension isn't much help either. honestly, before you get stressed out at the track, buy some suspension mods and run street tires. a good few second tire warming always helps too. sfc's, and lca's will help you greatly, as well as relocation brakets. I'm not even bothering with racing mine until i can get the relocation brackets on with new lca's. no need for embarrassing myself. i also bought a TA girdle for the rear for some added strength....always a good idea. stay away from the et streets. if you demand on using them, i wouldn't do anything more than a 2500-3000 launch while slipping the clutch instead of side stepping it. on a stock car, et streets might not help you much anyway when u figure in the drag of the low psi after the 60'

 

it's not that they are that weak... automatic cars run them deep into the 12's and even some high 11's on stock 10 bolts with HD posi and a stud girdle with cover. when u have a manual, you have whats called shock load. the rearend takes no load when u have the clutch in, and then you go dropping the hammer on it. so the rear goes from no load to full load. that sucks for the 10 bolt. it's basically like trying to run a 40 yard dash when you first step out of bed in the morning.

 

A4's CalzOWN you.

 

I am in the 10's with my 10 bolt and the secret is...don't launch on slicks. If you just roll into the run like you have before you should be fine, plus those tires will keep you from spinning once you hit it. Just don't launch the car.

 

IT depends on your clutch and gear, if you have say a spec stg 3 you wil have a far greater chance breaking, if you have different gears, ie, 4.10's you will have a far beatter chance to break, not only do the 4.10's multiply the load more but the pinion gear become smaller so it becomes weaker, but I have seen a 97 lt4 ss with spray run 10.80s with a m6 with slicks. And he would launch the car. He was running a stock 10-bolt with richmond gears(3.42)
As far as my opinion, I will tell you what happened to me, I drove a freinds 98 Z28 m6 with a procharger at the track, car info- 6 psi D1, Hooker Lts, oryp, LM exhaust,4.10s, lowered, bmr torque arm, pan hard bar controll arms, 315 nitto dr's. I left the line spinning and on the 1-2 shift completely destroyed the rear end, I mean everything was junk, snaped axles, broken gears, broken posi, cracked casing, it was a giant paper weight. So your kinda playing with fire, so you must ask yourself one thing........Do you feel lucky?

 

you are going to burn up the clutch. ET streets are the best "track mod" i ever did. I never had a problem with my stock clutch until the first night i used them though. That clutch burned up in under 10 passes. I put in a centerforce dual friction and have never had another problem. I also have a m6 and i have dropped the hammer on that rear end a lot of times. I have launched from 4k rpm's many times. Pulled some 1.7sec 60'. I guess i have a magic stock rearend because i have never had any problems. I have seen guys break theirs with a sticky set of street tires and many on some dr's. Strange how some are just a little stronger than others. I know i am just delaying the inevetible.

 

I've always heard that with the higher gear you run, the less load you put on it. as in 4.10's are easier than 3.42's. if you think about it, the 4.10's are spinning faster which means that it takes less turns to make one full tire revolution. the faster it spins, each individual tooth will be undergoing less load, as apposed to lower gears where the tooth will be under load for more time because it takes longer to make a full tire revolution. Thats the way i understood it

 

True but when the 4.10 gear hits with a sticky tire it tends to be a bit more of a intial shock which seems to be the end of the 7.5 bolt. And you cant get around the size difference. I know they make 4.10's in a 37x9 and a 41x10 and If I remember right the 37x 9 is the stronger one because of the more material on each gear. Either way, I dont have the luck to push it, I'm scared to use drag radials, but still dumb enough to.

 

Launch easily and you'll be fine. When you crank it up on the launch is when you break the rear.

-Shannon

 

true but, look at how much thinner the teeth are on 410s' vs 342's apparently the difference in the amount of material there has a bigger impact on the strength that the fact that each tooth is having stress for a shorter period of time

 

Hawk is right- 4.10 gears will break long before 3.73s or 3.42s, because each tooth of the gear has such a smaller cross sectional area. Think about it this way- even though it is easier to turn and there is less time duration of load on each tooth with a higher gear ratio, you are still putting the same amount of torque through the rear end.