I used a fat thread tap to remove mine.
IIRC it was mentioned in the LT1 rebuild book.
Thread it in & it winds the bush out.

Just tried searching online & others mention using a fat bolt.

HTH
Mitch

 

Got the pilot bearing out. No AZs nearby had the 27128 tool so I managed without it. Input shaft looks good. e.g. no scoring. I've got the new pilot bearing in. I need to get some high temp grease for it. Need to decide what I want to put back in.

 

I just use a skim coat of high temp axle grease on the pilot bearing. IDK if you really have to but I always have. You can also do the same for the tip of the input shaft if you want

On clutch installs I also wipe the input shaft and use a wire brush to get the splines clean. Then take the high temp grease and lightly coat the spline where the disc travel THEN TAKE THE DISC AND RUN IT BACK & FORTH a few times to gather any "excess grease (read you just want a skim coat "in" the splines) and wipe that off the disc hub. Basically you want a disc/spline to travel easily on the input shaft.

Obviously you want to "sparingly" use any grease so it does not get slung around and contaminate the clutch disc

Weird you would be having balance issues on a stock replacement FW & clutch. The PP that still had the paint dab on them for install orientation should be balanced. Typically there would be holes drilled on the PP hat side tabs. The cheaper clones have nothing drilled nor any paint dab like the stock Valeo had


You can measure the height of the new FW against old. If more than .050 difference and you want to use the old one, you can buy shim that go between crank & FW. They come in various thickness. Places like Summit sell them, maybe even local auto part store also

This has nothing to do with your vibration, just a suggested tip on clutch install

 

Follow up - got the engine/transmission back in. I replaced the pilot bearing with a full bearing unit not a bushing, lubricated it, reinstalled the flywheel, pressure plate and clutch assy that I took out. I lined the paint mark on the PP with the alignment dowel on the flywheel. Torqued everything to spec.

Early results are a definite improvement. I need to do some more driving to make sure. On my initial drive the ICM failed on me cutting the drive short. I've got it replaced now so will be going for an extended drive soon.

So not sure what the problem for sure was but don't care as much as that it's fixed.

Thanks for all the info and assist!