URGENT: Best clutch for abuse/reliability under/around $300
URGENT: Best clutch for abuse/reliability under/around $300
like the title says, I need to order a clutch kit in the next day or two and need it to be under/around $300 for the clutch, pressure plate and T/O bearing.
What do you guys reccomend.
So far different shops here have reccomended different things. One was Zoom, other was Valeo, one was GM.
What do you have/reccomend and where did you get it and for how much.
What do you guys reccomend.
So far different shops here have reccomended different things. One was Zoom, other was Valeo, one was GM.
What do you have/reccomend and where did you get it and for how much.
I'd go autozone...I replaced mine 6 times for FREE...before I would go to the track...go to Azone exchange it put it in a drive...started slipping after I hit the 400 HP though...other than that it held up GREAT...best bang for your buck
bush
bush
i have had GREAT experiences with the SLP LT4 clutch. it is an awesome street clutch in a mild car that doesnt go to the track EVERY weekend.
also had a few buddies using the heavy duty ram and liked it. but through personal experience i can tell u that u will not be disappointed in the SLP!!!!!
also had a few buddies using the heavy duty ram and liked it. but through personal experience i can tell u that u will not be disappointed in the SLP!!!!!
Hey drew, do you have the single disc clutch? How is it on the street? How long have you had it? I've been looking for awhile and was almost decided on a Spec Stage 3, but i'm still unsure. Where'd you get it from? Thanks.
Not sure of your mods...but invest in a SPEC stage 2 or 3. Some guys will tell yo ucrap about them..but when you think about it htier using the wrong clutch for the wrong setup. I had a Valeo Clutch on my car and it did it's job..but it's not good for RAcing at all unless you like going back and for to AUtozone every 10K miles. My valeo lasted a good 20+miles and was still holding on but going out slowly. For banging your buck if your on a tight budget and are despirate for a clutch. Valeo is your best bet. You can take it back when it wears out. But if you want to have something that works go with SPEC.
Spec Stage 3's are low-quality even the new ones. The center hubs in them are VERY cheap and the springs are VERY tiny for the application. They will hold up to some abouse for a while, but they are known for blowing these springs, even on stock HP cars. Spec will pro-rate your warranty for you, but how many times do you really want to keep pulling your clutch? I would go with the LT4 PP and either SLP or McLeod disc, unless you are really pushing the 400 HP mark, then check into something else, but do not go with Spec. You have been warned.
I have a spec stage 3 ceramic in my car, no problems at all other than blowing out 3 good rearends. I'll say this if you're on a stock 10 bolt and have a dr on there and launch hard it will go, and go fast( the rearend that is). Long story short, over the summer I had around 550-600 launches on on my clutch and figured it was probably time to change the clutch out so I went and bought a new one. To my amazement when i dropped the trans and pulled the clutch there was still a great deal amount of life left in it. When i first got the clutch and the drag radials I launched at around 3-3.5k however as time progressed I was launching at 5k riding the clutch to prevent a lot of shock to the drivetrain(giving my rears more life) as well as to prevent bog. I've been extremely impressed with it and would recommend it, it's probably the best bang for the buck clutch out there. However I think they have a problem with quality control as a few people have had significant problems with them.
well I had the SLP LT1 clutch and PP/TO bearing installed this past week.
After they installed it, the master cylinder went, after that, the slave cylinder went, replaced all of them, and it wouldn't bleed right. The replacement master cylinder was defective, it was then replaced again and they bled it fine. My father picked the car up today and says "it's really stiff, is the pedal supposed to be that hard" but he also said "it makes no more rattling noises, and feels really solid" so I guess I'll see in a few days when I go home and swap cars with him again.
Im sure all of my problems were'nt because of the clutch, but I probably had a week system because of the horrible clutch that was in there, and with the new PP putting so much more pressure through the system, it blew the seals on my master cylinder and it was leaking inside my car.
After they installed it, the master cylinder went, after that, the slave cylinder went, replaced all of them, and it wouldn't bleed right. The replacement master cylinder was defective, it was then replaced again and they bled it fine. My father picked the car up today and says "it's really stiff, is the pedal supposed to be that hard" but he also said "it makes no more rattling noises, and feels really solid" so I guess I'll see in a few days when I go home and swap cars with him again.
Im sure all of my problems were'nt because of the clutch, but I probably had a week system because of the horrible clutch that was in there, and with the new PP putting so much more pressure through the system, it blew the seals on my master cylinder and it was leaking inside my car.


