trying to make a 4L60E last with around 500 rwhp, got a a couple questions
trying to make a 4L60E last with around 500 rwhp, got a a couple questions
i'm trying to make my trans last a while after i get everything done to my car, lot of the driving on it is done on the street, so not it wont see a lot of hard launches, my question is should I go with the shift kit, or the line pressure switch, or both? will running a b&m trans cooler help to prolong the life a lot, or is it not even worth the time and cash?
following is what will be done to the car in a couple weeks
-NGK TR6 plugs
-comp cromeoly pushrods
-Electric waterpump
-Double roller timing chain set
-3600 stall converter with 3.5 stator
-3.73
-Shift kit for trans?
-Trans line pressure adjustment switch?
-160 degree termostat
-X-pipe
-58 mm BBK TB,
-1 3/4 headers LT's
-1.6 Comp 7/16 Rocker arms
-42 lb/hr injectors
-Nitrous (125-150 shot)
-walbro 340 fuel pump
-cam bearings
-trans cooler
-ARP Head Bolts
-LT4 KM
-MSD blaster Coil
-Lower Control Arms
-LE 1 heads/cam or LE 2 heads/cam (havent decided yet)
following is what will be done to the car in a couple weeks
-NGK TR6 plugs
-comp cromeoly pushrods
-Electric waterpump
-Double roller timing chain set
-3600 stall converter with 3.5 stator
-3.73
-Shift kit for trans?
-Trans line pressure adjustment switch?
-160 degree termostat
-X-pipe
-58 mm BBK TB,
-1 3/4 headers LT's
-1.6 Comp 7/16 Rocker arms
-42 lb/hr injectors
-Nitrous (125-150 shot)
-walbro 340 fuel pump
-cam bearings
-trans cooler
-ARP Head Bolts
-LT4 KM
-MSD blaster Coil
-Lower Control Arms
-LE 1 heads/cam or LE 2 heads/cam (havent decided yet)
Re: trying to make a 4L60E last with around 500 rwhp, got a a couple questions
i built my 4l60e myself and upgraded many of the internals:
-upgrade pump 13 vane if i remember correctly
-larger boost valve
-tansgo shift kit
-larger servo for 2nd gear
-hardend input shaft and drum, and sunshell(torque drive kit)
-new reverse drum(gm)
-29 element double cage sprag
-raybestos blue cluthes and pro series band
-gm front 5 pinion planetary(original is 4 pinion)
-gm rear 5 pinion planetary(original is 4 pinion)
-converted all the thrust washes to bearings(need several parts from 98 and newer 4l60e's)-reaction carrier shaft and bearings
-large b&m cooler with built in fan
-larger trans line cooler fittings to use 3/8 lines to the cooler
trust me it is better to do it right the first time(for a while i was rebuilding every 1-1 1/2 yrs then i went through the trans and upgraded almost every part i could)
-upgrade pump 13 vane if i remember correctly
-larger boost valve
-tansgo shift kit
-larger servo for 2nd gear
-hardend input shaft and drum, and sunshell(torque drive kit)
-new reverse drum(gm)
-29 element double cage sprag
-raybestos blue cluthes and pro series band
-gm front 5 pinion planetary(original is 4 pinion)
-gm rear 5 pinion planetary(original is 4 pinion)
-converted all the thrust washes to bearings(need several parts from 98 and newer 4l60e's)-reaction carrier shaft and bearings
-large b&m cooler with built in fan
-larger trans line cooler fittings to use 3/8 lines to the cooler
trust me it is better to do it right the first time(for a while i was rebuilding every 1-1 1/2 yrs then i went through the trans and upgraded almost every part i could)
Re: trying to make a 4L60E last with around 500 rwhp, got a a couple questions
trying to understanding how a automatic trans works is like trying to understand rocket science, lol, props to you. i dont even want to attept to take it apart after taking a auto trans class back in high school. i'll eventually spend to 800 bucks and uprgrade to a th400 with a transbrake but for now i just wanna do some of the basic **** to make it last a bit longer, such as a shift kit or line pressure switch..
Re: trying to make a 4L60E last with around 500 rwhp, got a a couple questions
Definetly go with the cooler, it is recommended with the stall. Make sure you get a window switch so that you dont spray through the shifts. The shift kit wont make you faster but the harder shifts do increace tranny life due to less clutch slippage when shifting. Upping the line preasure through tuning can also accomplish this but it won't be as good as the shift kit.
Hope this helps
James
Hope this helps
James
Re: trying to make a 4L60E last with around 500 rwhp, got a a couple questions
you dont want to up line pressure by any means, it is hard on the transmission. the shift kit will help prolong its life, as well as the cooler. i have also heard that if you are going to launch hard, to manually shift it into first, bc it uses more clutch packs, and then shift into drive. (dont shift through all the gears, just insert into 1st when you launch)
Re: trying to make a 4L60E last with around 500 rwhp, got a a couple questions
You need to talk to a reputable 4L60E builder, this is unlikely to be found at the local shop. My personal picks would be Pro-built.net teamtripp.com or flp2win that last one being seriously expensive.
As for the "upgrades" many like to make the 13vane pump belongs in a 13vane pump our trannies have a 10 vane pump. On the servos the "Vette" sefvo is about as good as it gets and was stock in the LT1 b-bodies I would guess it was on the f-body as well, aftermarket ones can damage the bands. The 5 pinion parts have a lower rpm rating than 4 pinion and are not proving to be much of an upgrade though magazines and most shops like to sell them. On the clutches the stockers can actually be very good just need to get more of them in there and use the Transgo and .500 boost valve to properly apply them so they last. This does not mean neck snapping shifts as those can break hard parts.
The window switch is a great idea get the right aftermarket ignition and it can handle that as well as the rev limit and timing retard you need with spray.
As for the "upgrades" many like to make the 13vane pump belongs in a 13vane pump our trannies have a 10 vane pump. On the servos the "Vette" sefvo is about as good as it gets and was stock in the LT1 b-bodies I would guess it was on the f-body as well, aftermarket ones can damage the bands. The 5 pinion parts have a lower rpm rating than 4 pinion and are not proving to be much of an upgrade though magazines and most shops like to sell them. On the clutches the stockers can actually be very good just need to get more of them in there and use the Transgo and .500 boost valve to properly apply them so they last. This does not mean neck snapping shifts as those can break hard parts.
The window switch is a great idea get the right aftermarket ignition and it can handle that as well as the rev limit and timing retard you need with spray.
Re: trying to make a 4L60E last with around 500 rwhp, got a a couple questions
Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
You need to talk to a reputable 4L60E builder, this is unlikely to be found at the local shop. My personal picks would be Pro-built.net teamtripp.com or flp2win that last one being seriously expensive.
As for the "upgrades" many like to make the 13vane pump belongs in a 13vane pump our trannies have a 10 vane pump. On the servos the "Vette" sefvo is about as good as it gets and was stock in the LT1 b-bodies I would guess it was on the f-body as well, aftermarket ones can damage the bands. The 5 pinion parts have a lower rpm rating than 4 pinion and are not proving to be much of an upgrade though magazines and most shops like to sell them. On the clutches the stockers can actually be very good just need to get more of them in there and use the Transgo and .500 boost valve to properly apply them so they last. This does not mean neck snapping shifts as those can break hard parts.
The window switch is a great idea get the right aftermarket ignition and it can handle that as well as the rev limit and timing retard you need with spray.
As for the "upgrades" many like to make the 13vane pump belongs in a 13vane pump our trannies have a 10 vane pump. On the servos the "Vette" sefvo is about as good as it gets and was stock in the LT1 b-bodies I would guess it was on the f-body as well, aftermarket ones can damage the bands. The 5 pinion parts have a lower rpm rating than 4 pinion and are not proving to be much of an upgrade though magazines and most shops like to sell them. On the clutches the stockers can actually be very good just need to get more of them in there and use the Transgo and .500 boost valve to properly apply them so they last. This does not mean neck snapping shifts as those can break hard parts.
The window switch is a great idea get the right aftermarket ignition and it can handle that as well as the rev limit and timing retard you need with spray.
Re: trying to make a 4L60E last with around 500 rwhp, got a a couple questions
I'm not a tranny builder, but I have learned that you want to focus on three things:
The 700R4/4L60/4L60E is, in vastly oversimplified terms; a THM350 with an extra gear. They are stronger than they get credit for, but they are also easily killed by heat and/or slippage; which of course generates heat too.
However, if you take care of it, it should handle your 500hp for a long time. Just don't cheap out. It's LESS expensive to do it right the first time and buck up for the good parts and the good fluid. (I use Amsoil, but there are other choices.)
Finally, as has already been pointed out; you need a performance build shop, not AAMCO or any other "normal" shop.
- Shift Kit: Less slippage = less wear and heat.
- Cooler: Heat is your MAIN enemy. If you control your temperatures you tranny will reward you with longer life.
- Synthetic fluid: Your fluid not only transfers power it also lubricates and cools. It won't do a good job with that if it's busy breaking down and synthetic fluid holds up better.
The 700R4/4L60/4L60E is, in vastly oversimplified terms; a THM350 with an extra gear. They are stronger than they get credit for, but they are also easily killed by heat and/or slippage; which of course generates heat too.
However, if you take care of it, it should handle your 500hp for a long time. Just don't cheap out. It's LESS expensive to do it right the first time and buck up for the good parts and the good fluid. (I use Amsoil, but there are other choices.)
Finally, as has already been pointed out; you need a performance build shop, not AAMCO or any other "normal" shop.
Re: trying to make a 4L60E last with around 500 rwhp, got a a couple questions
you have to watch the planetary sets that trans shops sell, the new aftermarket 5 pinion ones are weaker than the factory 4 pinions,
factory gm 5 pinion planetary's are much stronger than the 4 pinion ones, that is why gm is using them on the 6.0L trucks
so if a trans shop try's to sell you a 5 pinion for around $100 or so you are not getting a factory gm unit and would be better with your original 4 pinion
factory gm 5 pinion planetary's are much stronger than the 4 pinion ones, that is why gm is using them on the 6.0L trucks
so if a trans shop try's to sell you a 5 pinion for around $100 or so you are not getting a factory gm unit and would be better with your original 4 pinion
Re: trying to make a 4L60E last with around 500 rwhp, got a a couple questions
Originally Posted by LameRandomName
I'm not a tranny builder, but I have learned that you want to focus on three things:
The 700R4/4L60/4L60E is, in vastly oversimplified terms; a THM350 with an extra gear. They are stronger than they get credit for, but they are also easily killed by heat and/or slippage; which of course generates heat too.
However, if you take care of it, it should handle your 500hp for a long time. Just don't cheap out. It's LESS expensive to do it right the first time and buck up for the good parts and the good fluid. (I use Amsoil, but there are other choices.)
Finally, as has already been pointed out; you need a performance build shop, not AAMCO or any other "normal" shop.
- Shift Kit: Less slippage = less wear and heat.
- Cooler: Heat is your MAIN enemy. If you control your temperatures you tranny will reward you with longer life.
- Synthetic fluid: Your fluid not only transfers power it also lubricates and cools. It won't do a good job with that if it's busy breaking down and synthetic fluid holds up better.
The 700R4/4L60/4L60E is, in vastly oversimplified terms; a THM350 with an extra gear. They are stronger than they get credit for, but they are also easily killed by heat and/or slippage; which of course generates heat too.
However, if you take care of it, it should handle your 500hp for a long time. Just don't cheap out. It's LESS expensive to do it right the first time and buck up for the good parts and the good fluid. (I use Amsoil, but there are other choices.)
Finally, as has already been pointed out; you need a performance build shop, not AAMCO or any other "normal" shop.
Re: trying to make a 4L60E last with around 500 rwhp, got a a couple questions
On the shift kit all the GOOD builders agree on Transgo.
As far as the fluid yes synthetic lubricates better but what you are forgetting is the clutches are wet so they get lubed better too, I have heard some good things about Amsoils ATF but I can say from personal experiance you do not want M1 in a performance 4L60E it is a great AFT for long drains in a daily driver but not for a performance tranny you will slip more than needed during the shifts. I would recommend a good dino or blend fluid and change it every 15-25K. I am going to try AutoGlide from http://specialtyformulations.com/ after having my current tranny fluid tested and analyzed by proffessionals, they thought this would serve me better as the 25K on the fluid in the tranny now had thinned it out badly even though wear had not gone up yet.
As far as the fluid yes synthetic lubricates better but what you are forgetting is the clutches are wet so they get lubed better too, I have heard some good things about Amsoils ATF but I can say from personal experiance you do not want M1 in a performance 4L60E it is a great AFT for long drains in a daily driver but not for a performance tranny you will slip more than needed during the shifts. I would recommend a good dino or blend fluid and change it every 15-25K. I am going to try AutoGlide from http://specialtyformulations.com/ after having my current tranny fluid tested and analyzed by proffessionals, they thought this would serve me better as the 25K on the fluid in the tranny now had thinned it out badly even though wear had not gone up yet.
Re: trying to make a 4L60E last with around 500 rwhp, got a a couple questions
Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
As far as the fluid yes synthetic lubricates better but what you are forgetting is the clutches are wet so they get lubed better too, I have heard some good things about Amsoils ATF but I can say from personal experiance you do not want M1 in a performance 4L60E it is a great AFT for long drains in a daily driver but not for a performance tranny you will slip more than needed during the shifts. I would recommend a good dino or blend fluid and change it every 15-25K.
Re: trying to make a 4L60E last with around 500 rwhp, got a a couple questions
Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
On the shift kit all the GOOD builders agree on Transgo.
As far as the fluid yes synthetic lubricates better but what you are forgetting is the clutches are wet so they get lubed better too, I have heard some good things about Amsoils ATF but I can say from personal experiance you do not want M1 in a performance 4L60E it is a great AFT for long drains in a daily driver but not for a performance tranny you will slip more than needed during the shifts. I would recommend a good dino or blend fluid and change it every 15-25K. I am going to try AutoGlide from http://specialtyformulations.com/ after having my current tranny fluid tested and analyzed by proffessionals, they thought this would serve me better as the 25K on the fluid in the tranny now had thinned it out badly even though wear had not gone up yet.
As far as the fluid yes synthetic lubricates better but what you are forgetting is the clutches are wet so they get lubed better too, I have heard some good things about Amsoils ATF but I can say from personal experiance you do not want M1 in a performance 4L60E it is a great AFT for long drains in a daily driver but not for a performance tranny you will slip more than needed during the shifts. I would recommend a good dino or blend fluid and change it every 15-25K. I am going to try AutoGlide from http://specialtyformulations.com/ after having my current tranny fluid tested and analyzed by proffessionals, they thought this would serve me better as the 25K on the fluid in the tranny now had thinned it out badly even though wear had not gone up yet.
Re: trying to make a 4L60E last with around 500 rwhp, got a a couple questions
Originally Posted by mike 96 ws6
In the old days we used type 'F' fluid in powerglides and TH350's for firmer shifts. Is this not a good idea in a 4l60E?
Re: trying to make a 4L60E last with around 500 rwhp, got a a couple questions
all the parts you need are listed under the stage 2 4l60e rebuild on my site at www.ckperformance.com. the transgo shift kit is not necessary .the only spring in the valve body that needs replacing is the accumulator valve spring.nothing else.not at all.the seperator plate orifices get resized and thats it.remove the helper springs from the 3rd clutch pack,install 10 thin paper frictions with 070 steels and a 4l60e steel as your pressure and apply plates.5 pinion front and rear planets and heat treated reaction tube ,beast shell.if you need info call in we will help you.we have a mechanical upgrade kit as well as all the tech to do it right.trust those who truly understand the inner workings of the 4l60e ,hydraulics ,and the held divided by the driven principles of planetary gearset operation.we also have a 2.66 first gear planetary system that takes rotating spped out of the transmission improving durability and traction.btw we have a 200 page 2004r manual for those who are interested,covers complete overhaul and modifications.most of you out there arent aware of the products we are producing for this transmission.visit our site and post any questions you have and we will assist.christoforos kokkonis


