T56 will not shift while started + Fork Grinding on Pressure plate - Two Issues?
#1
T56 will not shift while started + Fork Grinding on Pressure plate - Two Issues?
I'm a visual person, so I made a chart to explain what has been going wrong with my car since I put in the new clutch. The part that really baffles me is the car got worse after installing new hydraulics and even worse (started rubbing against the pressure plate) out of no where.
Explaining things in order was getting hard, so I made this chart to explain the problem:
What really gets me is that the fork grinding on the pressure plate is a new problem and happens even when the slave cylinder is not installed.
It was rubbing against this part of the fork:
Explaining things in order was getting hard, so I made this chart to explain the problem:
What really gets me is that the fork grinding on the pressure plate is a new problem and happens even when the slave cylinder is not installed.
It was rubbing against this part of the fork:
#2
Re: T56 will not shift while started + Fork Grinding on Pressure plate - Two Issues?
have you made sure that the block holding the clutch fork to the transmission is tightened in, and in with loctite?
I took my tranny and clutch out in the fall (fun in the driveway) and installed new hydraulics as well
I also used a Pilot Bushing as well (and pulled out the original bearing...in pieces)
You will find when you first start it, you wont be able to get it into gear for a bit, (took me about 20 mins of fiddling to get it in), and reverse will come very easy once you break the clutch in
It takes a bit for the transmission input shaft to start to spin within the bushing, so just take your time working it into gear
First things first tho, that grinding is WRONG!!
nothing to do with Hydraulics at all
I would suspect the Pressure Plate Being wrong
Take a Vernier and measure the thickness of your old one, and thickness of the new one
Also measure the thickness of your old Clutch disc and new clutch disc
Add up the new and old thicknesses and that should raise any red flags
Also, your spring clip that holds your clutch fork in looks bent outwards (compared to mine)
be sure to double check your flywheel thickness to make sure it is within spec
If any pics of my clutch install would help you just PM me, I took pics of everything when I did it
I took my tranny and clutch out in the fall (fun in the driveway) and installed new hydraulics as well
I also used a Pilot Bushing as well (and pulled out the original bearing...in pieces)
You will find when you first start it, you wont be able to get it into gear for a bit, (took me about 20 mins of fiddling to get it in), and reverse will come very easy once you break the clutch in
It takes a bit for the transmission input shaft to start to spin within the bushing, so just take your time working it into gear
First things first tho, that grinding is WRONG!!
nothing to do with Hydraulics at all
I would suspect the Pressure Plate Being wrong
Take a Vernier and measure the thickness of your old one, and thickness of the new one
Also measure the thickness of your old Clutch disc and new clutch disc
Add up the new and old thicknesses and that should raise any red flags
Also, your spring clip that holds your clutch fork in looks bent outwards (compared to mine)
be sure to double check your flywheel thickness to make sure it is within spec
If any pics of my clutch install would help you just PM me, I took pics of everything when I did it
Last edited by chevyss_98; 01-24-2011 at 01:26 PM.
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