When I am getting out of first gear it vibrates during the clutch transition.
It is a 97 Z with 118K and origional clutch.

If it is the clutch what is the best performance clutch to replace it with but still an everyday driver and I plan on doing some big mods in the future so one that will also hold up to th HP.

What all do I need to replace while doing the clutch.
flywheel etc...?

thanks guys
Josh

 

Typically clutch chatter is a sign of disk contamination. Sometimes it will go away, sometimes not. Depends on what got stuck to it. As far as replacement, most people here swear by spec stage 3. Not cheap, but well worth it, or so I'm told. I'll probably find out this spring when I blow mine up...

Everything you need (pressure plate, throwout bearing, clutch disk) is included. You will need to get the flywheel resurfaced so the new clutch disk won't wear funny. Since it's fairly expensive make sure to use an aligment tool and follow other instructions exactly. Only handle the clutch disk by it's edges, if you do get something on the face clean it with some brakleen right after. Do it right and you'll be rewarded with a smooth feel that will back up some power to boot.

 

PILOT BEARING. This does not come in most kits and is left out on many installs. Especially for the DIY guys who don't have the funky puller to remove it. A worn pilot bearing will cause your clutch to chatter. Beg, borrow or make a tool, just be sure it gets replaced. Also, clean everything, regardless of whether or not you touched it. Dirt/grease is bad and the manufacturers are not perfect.

If you can afford the downtime, have your flywheel inspected and surfaced before you buy parts. That way if there is a hangup, you stand the chance of saving money by getting a new one with your clutch as a package deal.

Not to be mean but do a search for "best clutch" , "Spec", "street twin" or whatever clutch you have seen or heard of. There are a million clutch threads, like asking what everyone's favorite color is.

 

How much can I expect to pay for new pilot bearing?

Also is an aluminum flywheel worth the extra money?

 

"How much can I expect to pay for new pilot bearing?"

Probally under 10 bucks.


"Also is an aluminum flywheel worth the extra money?"


Short answer: no

Aluminum flywheel weighs less and is therefore able to rev faster. Less mass also has a downside, greater RPM drop between shifts. This is not desireable on a street car. If you have a steep geared, high reving strip car, you MAY want to consider one if you have already commited to buying a SFI approved piece but there is still not a lot to be gained considering the rpm limits of the stock ECM.

 

One of the more popular clutches for our LT1 customers has been Ram's HDX. It's rated up to 425 HP, and it works very well for our customers that are not looking to make a huge amount of horsepower. The drivability is excellent, and it's not ridiculously expensive! We sell it for $384.99, and I would even include a new pilot bearing for you for no extra charge. I have this clutch in stock and ready to ship.

If you are wanting a clutch that is "stage 3 comparable", then I would recommend going with Ram's Powergrip system. It is rated to 500 HP, and it does not have the chatter that other clutches typically have. We sell it for $465.99, and I would also include a free pilot bearing with this one, too. We also price-match if you find it anywhere else cheaper. Keep in mind I have this one on the shelf, too.

Feel free to give me a call or e-mail me at trevor@texas-speed.com if you have any questions or concerns. I'm here to help.

Trevor
Texas Speed & Performance

 

I am in the Dallas, tx area, does anyone know of a place I can take the flywheel to and have it surfaced. How much should I pay for that(don't want to get ripped off)?

Where can I get the pilot bearing?
thanks for all the help.

 

Mcleod hands down...

For an everyday driver the 6500 rpm version should suite you fine.