I have about 300 mi on my new street twin and the clutch will engage all the way top of the pedal travel. I've adjusted the pedal adjustment but that just moves where the pedal sits not where in the pedals travel the clutch engages.

Do i need to take out a set of washers from around the pressure plate?

 

Top of the pedal travel is ideal for clutch placement... leave it where it is. Give it a couple days to get used to it. It might help to slide the seat back a bit, too.

 

And this won't effect functionality? I guess im just concerned that the pressure plate is not being allowed to fully clamp the disks on to the flywheel and fully lock up the clutch. I've found that even the weight of my foot on the clutch will allow it to slip a little.

I was going to try a few High rpm dumps to see if it slips at all but wanted to see if this was normal first

 

What do you have for the clutch master and slave? The shims set the disk clearance, when it's not in the car, did you check it the way the directions say? I don't think you should remove shims unless the disk clearance is out of spec.

Here's my Street Twin saga; https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=544847

 

I used the clutch master that came with the clutch and a new slave from GM. I don't have the tools to take the measurements they asked for in the directions. I know this is less than ideal but a lot of people put them in and have no problem and never check. They should come with the right shims from Mcleod.

 

Mine had the correct clearance when I checked it, I think they do come set.

Do you think the clutch fork is still tight on the throwout bearing when your foot is off the clutch pedal? How loose is the clutch fork when there's no pressure on the clutch pedal? If it's loose the clutch is completely released.

 

Thats the thing. There is no "looseness" to the top of the pedal. I'm gonna give Mcleod a call on monday. I was just hoping this was a common problem.

 

Is the slave cylinder shaft tight on the fork with the clutch pedal at the top?

If so you might have to shorten the clutch fork pivot.

 

Ok finally talked to Mcleod. I think you might be right. For some reason I do think that there is some preload on my clutch, ie the clutch fork isn't allowing the clutch to fully engage. Mcleod said there need to be 100 thou clearance (additional travel) of the slave pin after the clutch is fully engaged for it to beable to self adjust. He also mentioned using an accumulator valve to adjust where the clutch might engage in relation to the pedal travel.

So the fork should actually be "loose" against the slave pin? Could fix this by simply shaving a little of the slave pin or removing that plastic cap? If I remove the slave will i damage it if the pin is allowed to move foward(I remember there was a plastic retainer thats supposed to break the first time you step on the clutch) . Also I remember not being 100% confident in how the clutch fork went in. How is it supposed to be correctly installed? How is the pivot point on the transmission supposed to interface with the clutch fork. I can't find any good pics in the service manual.

Thanks all the help

 

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=786733

I found this thread. Is this the correct way for the fork to be installed? (3rd pic down)

If i were to change the pivot point could i simply put a shim under that pivot "T" ?

 

Yes that is the way the fork is installed, to increase the "clearance" at the throwout bearing the fork pivot must be shortened.