The Strange Engineering 12 bolt read end with 3 channel ABS uses a speed sensor (magnetic pickup) mounted on top of the read end center housing. The wires coming off the sensor are very small and very prone to breakage.

A replacement sensor from Strange is currently $79 and my shipping was an additional $18. I've had two of these sensors result in broken wires. As I ordered my third sensor I decided to see if there was anything I could do to repair my old sensor with the broken wires.

I did successfully repair my sensor. Following is a pictorial walkthrough of what I did so hopefully if someone else faces this problem they will be saved $100. I have more pictures but the forum limits me to 10. Let me know if you have any questions.

Here is a new sensor. It has 3/8" - 24 threads. It is approximately 1.8" long. Part No. H1106S

Strange Engineering 3 Channel ABS rear end sensor.

Here is what typically happens. Note the wires break flush with the epoxy filling leaving no wire to connect to.

Sensor with wires broken off.

Below are the tools I used minus my Dremel type tool. I used a cutoff disc on my Dremel tool.

Needle nose pliers, jewelers screwdriver, miniature butane torch, small gauge wire strippers.

1/4" heat shrink, soldering iron, solder

This is a one time shot as the sensor is not long enough to try again if you mess up.

First step, cut the housing off all the way around. I cut at 5mm (.2") down from the top (about 5 threads). The cut can't be too far down or there won't be enough sensor left to reach the required .010 gap to the ring gear which holds the reluctor ring. Cut through the housing until you reach the epoxy. You can tell you've cut deeply enough by sight and you'll probably see some smoke when the epoxy is being cut. Go only deep enough to cut the metal; you don't want to risk cutting the wires off.


Housing cut through full circle 5mm or 5 threads down from the wire end.

On the first sensor I repaired I then cut across the threads perpendicular to the first cut about three times from the first cut to the top of the sensor. This way I was able to pull the housing off the epoxy. On my second sensor (this one) my cutoff disc broke and I had no more discs (be sure you have several) so I had to work the housing off the epoxy. I accomplished getting it off but it is tricky as the wires are very thin and easily broken.

I used my hammer and the jeweler's screwdriver to break away the epoxy. The epoxy is brittle and so breaks away easily and with little force. Your objective is to remove the epoxy from the wires thus exposing them.


Chipped away epoxy.

With the epoxy chipped away I was able to use my wire stripper to strip the insulation off the wires. In all sensors I have seen, in this application, there are two wires and they have been white and black. I do not think the polarity is important but I'm don't know that for certain. I used 22 gauge white and black wires to solder to the sensor wires. Soldering is necessary because the wires are so small, and for strength. Wrapping and taping them would be difficult and result in a large bundle.

After stripping the insulation off, I twisted the stranded wires, and tinned them (applied solder to the wires)

I then twisted my 22 gauge extension wires on (white to white, black to black) Alternatively, hold onto the wires that came with your sensor that you previously connected to the existing wiring under the car and use that.

Then I slid 1/8" heat shrink over the wires and connection and shrunk the tubing with my butane torch. A match can be used or a heat gun. Finally I applied epoxy to the wires for strength and stability. I let the epoxy cure over night but you may not need to.


The next morning I covered both wires with a 1/4" heat shrink tubing and shrunk that. I then stripped the insulation off the remaining ends.

The sensor can now be connected to the car. I chose to add a miniature connector to both the sensor and the wires on the car so I can easily disconnect the sensor. I purchased a connector kit from Amazon. It has proven very useful as I have put connectors on my gauges in my gauge pod as one example.

The sensor has a transistor circuit inside the housing. It generates a pulse when activated by a magnet. You can test your sensor by putting your DVM (digital volt meter) on the DC volts setting. Hook your meter to the wires, run a magnet by the tip as close as possible without touching. On a good sensor you will see the meter go from 0 volts to around 1 volt. The voltage will vary depending on how close and for how long the magnet swings by the sensor tip. This test simulates the action of the reluctor mounted on the spinning ring gear as it passes the sensor.

The next part is to screw the sensor into the rear end. The specified clearance stated by Strange Engineering is .010 between the sensor and the ring gear. Spinning the sensor into the rear end is tricky and can result in broken wires again. Below is an alternative way to insert the sensor. Remove the sensor plate from the rear end. It is held in by a cap screw with a hex head. Use a hex socket or hex key to remove the bolt, and pry off the mount to free it from the rear end housing. It has two o-rings on the mount so it is a tight fit. Then screw your sensor into the mount and reinsert the mount into the rear end. Finally install the hold down screw. Be sure to note or mark the placement of the sensor mount when you remove it as it must be inserted with the same orientation for the sensor to line up with the ring gear. I find that the sensor body should extend 1/2" below the sensor mount for proper depth. If your ABS light comes on either the sensor is not inserted far enough in, or the sensor mount is not aligned correctly. This assumes the sensor is good.

Tip: put a second 3/8"-24 nut on top of the sensor. Then lock the two nuts against each other. This allows you to use the nuts as a handhold to spin the sensor into the mount and may save strain on the wires.


The sensor installed in the sensor mount. This mount goes into the top of the rear end housing.

 

Thank you for taking the time to detail this! I will likely R&R my current sensor for a spare and install the new one. I’ll take some pics when done.

A thought I had was to use a spark plug or similar boot with some silicone as a strain relief. I am also planning on lengthening the wire and strapping it down to the brake line going back to the car to prevent movement at the sensor.

 

Good info. After losing a couple of the Strange sensors, I just gave up and stare at the ABS INOP light on my dash. The adjustment requirement was a PITA.

I'll save this writeup and give a copy to whomever buys my car so they can fix it if they want to restore ABS.

Side story.... when I received my Strange, I took the cover off the top of the ABS sensor hole, and stuck my finger in to feel how deep the sensor had to be set. Unfortunately, there was nothing to touch. Strange forgot to install the reluctor ring version of the carrier (the reluctor is actually machined into the carrier, not a separate "ring". They wanted me to return the entire rear, but I had already installed it. They had to wait a month or so until they could get another machined version of the carrier. Then we mutually agreed on a local shop to swap out the carrier, and Strange fully guaranteed the shop's work. Turned out the shop was amazing, an old timer with a couple Hemi-powered street rods collecting dust and piles of old car parts. At the time I took my car in, he was doing welding repairs on a huge steel mold from the Crayola factory in PA. He told me he refused to work on imports, and demand for domestic hot rods had dropped off to the point where he needed to do odd jobs to stay in business. Got a bit worried at that point, but turned out he was amazing in setting up the new carrier..... TOTALLY by touch, no dial indicator, etc. Strange was faultless.

 

..Photos from 23 years ago....

 

Great story Fred. I tried to ignore the light but can't. Glad I know how to recycle the part.

 

With the Holley Dash, no ABS light for me... But I really want ABS to work for the track...

 

BTW I did find an alternate source for the speed sensor. It is made by a.i. tek and the part number is 70085-8080-001. It's made by a.i. tek in Cheshire, CT. The sensor actually has a transistor inside the body. I've been emailing with a sales/tech rep trying to find an alternate part that may have better wire management on it but haven't found a good alternate (defined by better wire support AND lower or similar cost). The distributor's price is about 12 bucks less but they offer free ground shipping so that would save me an additional $18 versus Strange Engineering so that's $30 total savings. Here's the link in case anyone wants to keep it handy.

Strange Eng. ABS sensor alt supplier

Here is the website of the manufacturer. Strange Eng. Speed Sensor manufacturer website