SPEC Stage 3 throwout bearing...
 

Is the TO bearing that comes with the SPEC stage 3 the same as a stock throwout bearing?

My Stage 3 went out very quickly over the past few days. It had under 40k on it.

I bought a stock clutch disc, and reused the PP, flywheel, throwout bearing, and pilot bearing. I'm on a HUGE budget, as I've had to fix way too much **** on this car lately. I thought I could save a little money by spending 50 on a cheap clutch disc, and I'll get a nice SPEC kit in a couple of months.

I put it all back together, and when I push in the clutch, I can't put it into gear. When I try to, the car starts to slowly move forward. I can put it in gear with the car off and start it, but it lunges forward. Can't get the car into neutral with the clutch down and car in any gear.

Everything seemed good as new in there, I'm just wondering if the TO bearing isn't pulling the pp out enough to fully disengage it.

In terms of critical specs, the two bearings are the same. However, Spec uses the Corvette bearing which has a thicker pull flange for more durability. Even if the critical specs were a tad different, the hydraulic clutch will adapt to any difference in specs. TOB is not the problem.

The problem is the disk as a reult of it not being fully released and dragging. The measurement between the disk compressed and uncompressed is too big and the clutch does not have enough throw to fully release. I have been down this road in the past. Get a different disk or an adjustable master cylinder for more throw.

Is there a difference in the pressure plate that spec uses in the stage 3 and a stock pressure plate? I was under the impression that everything they gave you was to stock specs, other than the clutch.

Which clutch disc will work?

Also, IF the throwout bearing were bad (bent, broken, etc..) what symptoms would it have?

WRT the pressure plate, in terms of critical specs and usage, they are the same. Spec claims that they mod the friction surface leverage points to make it stronger. That would be the only difference.

WRT the disk. If the disk has "marcels or spring things between the two facings" and is able to be compressed, then there is a higher chance of their being drag. If you are using a stock type disk, then it does have marcels which are used to reduce chatter. Gotta measure compressed and un-compressed and compare it to a known good disk. A disk like my Spec 3+ does NOT have marcels meaning there is little chance of clutch drag causing a problem.

The air gap spec between the friction surfaces of the PP, flywheel and the disk when the clutch is pushed in is very tiny and must be considered.

WRT the throwout bearing. When one goes bad it just makes a lot of noise or in the case of me, this happened a few weeks ago:
Attachment 36737

This is the disc. It's a brand new stock replacement type.

Attachment 36736

I'm still not understanding why this isn't working. If the PP is the same and the disc is good, what else could it be?

Again its the disk as it relates to the compressed vs. uncompressed specs. Get these two diminsions from the disk and subtract the smaller from the larger. What ever that new measurement is, your clutch does not provide enough clearance and the disk is dragging. You have to compare this against a known good disk.

That is NOT a GM disk, it is most likely a cheap Chinese knockoff. The GM has five damper coil springs in the hub.

Assuming the hydros are working correctly, you will need a different disk or and adjustable MC. I chased this problem for weeks many years ago.

I've tried everything. I even tried pulling the spacer on the tranny to move the slave in closer and it didn't make any difference. The disc must be no good.

I guess I'll have to see if I can borrow some loot from somewhere until my tax return comes in next week.

No matter what you do with the spacer you mentioned, no matter if you remove the plastic cup or even lengthen or shorten the pusher shaft in the SC, the hydros will adapt to the conditions present. I replaced every damn thing and tried to re-engineer some crap too to solve this problem.

Trust me, its the disk being a tad out of spec.

i did the same thing. Instead of a stock replacement from the local parts store i ordered a spec 2 for a lil more.

I'm almost positive it's a duralast brand clutch.

I ordered a SPEC stage 1 kit today. I wanted the S2 but this surprise need for a clutch already tightened my budget up for the next couple weeks.

Hopefully it holds up OK.