My main issue is that this is the 2nd time it has blown out and I have 95k miles. The 1st time, it was under warranty and I think the chevy place did a crappy job replacing my ring and pinon. It was done at 50,000 miles. Anyways... I was driving down the road and all of a sudden I hear this loud banging sound from under my car. I slowed my car down to about 10 to 15mph and it stopped. (unless I drove faster) I drove to a local shop that was recommended in jackonville,Fl. He quoted a new 3.73 richmond with a complete rearend rebuilt for about $1000. I have 2001 M6 and I know I should have gotten a 4.10 but didnt want the extreame. Well after opening the rear end cover, it was completely destroyed. There were 2 holes in the cover and I need a new one. He had to take the complete axle to the car wash and wash out all the metal shaving in the axle. We also had to get a used casing. Mine did not have a clutch and this used on does. I dont have traction control and I am wondering if this will be a pain in the future? I might have to get and completely new axle. The insides were shredded pretty good. I just need to know where I can get a new or good used axle for my car. I just want to get this fixed right. Unless I can upgrade for about the same price to a 12bolt. I dont know. Right now I am looking at about $1300 with $600 labor and the rest in parts.

My current specs are as followed:
2001 Z28 M6
no options from factory.
I have installed qtp headers and dyno tuned. 350 horsepower
right now I just have the 16inch rims with KDW tires. (nothing big)
I also have just about all the suspension completed.
Subfram connectors, STB, Sway bars, 35mm front 22mm back. Blistin shocks, Panhard bar. Thanks in advance.

 

if you are going to spend 1300 to fix the 10 bolt i would highly reccomend getting a 12 bolt. if you dont have the money yet, find a stock used rear for 100-300 and dont beat on it too bad until you can find a good 12 bolt or 9 inch. the 10 bolt is a money pit and if its broke twice its bound to break again

 

yeah, definitly save up for a 12 bolt or a 9 inch...ive blown my 10 bolt apart 3 times. Your way better off buying a qualitly rearend, then putting money into the junk 10 bolt

 

That price is way too high IMO. Were it me I would either take the car else where or order a 12-bolt. Like mentioned above, the 10-bolt can be a money pit, especially if you are running a fair amount of hp.

 

Find a cheap, used original 10-bolt, and/or keep saving up towards a 12-bolt, but don't spend over $1000 on the 10-bolt . I've been through a couple 10-bolts already, but only because the most I've spent pretty much is just the ring & pinion (I haven't had to pay for the labor). Even I'm getting tired of the BS, and hope the current setup gets me through until I can eventually afford a 12-bolt myself .

The 10-bolt is really a terrible investment .

 

i'd invest money into enron before i'd invest it in the 10-bolt.

for that much you can almost get a 9"

I got mine for 1800

 

Thanks guys. You have been a great help... Well I finally got the new 3.73's in and now I am having a ABS INOP light on my dash..... I was going to just replace the senor right above the rear axle, but I notice that it was unplugged. It comes on the bottom of the drivers side underpanel and goes to the senor on the rearend and thenthere is just the 2 pronge plug just sitting there. I looked everywhere and cannot find where it goes?!? If anyone has pictures or know where this should goes please let me know. I tried calling the guy that put all this together and he is out for the weekend.. I have looked all around the axle and cannot find where it goes.. It was going on and off before the rearend blew up, so I am wondering if I should just replace it anyways. Thanks

 

I agree on the enron idea though... It would be a better investment. But i really hope this at last till next time I get my tax refunds.. I just got lucky I got my refund around the same time. Thanks guys and hope I can get some pics.

 

The ABS sensor should be on top of the "pumpkin" (the center section of the diff housing, directly on top). If it's NOT there, that means you got a housing that was originally setup for 4-channel (traction control) ABS, not just 3-channel "ABS". If that's the case, you're either going to have to run without ABS, or you'd have to drill out the hole in the housing where the sensor belongs and install it . Hope that's not the case, and you just didn't see the sensor on top???????

 

I found it. Thanks for your help. The way I was angled on the ground, I couldnt see that it plugged into its self. I was on the driver side and the plug was on the passanger side. So I couldnt see it very well.. Thanks again guys...