I've decided to get a spec stage III clutch. The shop wants $275 to install it (I normally do my own motor work but I'm NOT messing with the tranny/rear).
I also asked the shop about installing gears possibly. They said $250.

Now I know I'm getting the clutch done there, but my main question is should I just go ahead and get an aluminum driveshaft and gears installed while the car is there, or would you guys absolutely not recommend gears cause of the 10 bolt being stock now? I don't have massive amounts of money left to throw into my Z. See mods in sig to gauge your opinions. I also have a ratech solid pinion spacer that I can have them install.

Also, can I just have them resurface my stock flywheel, or is it a MUST to get an expensive aftermarket one?

decisions decisions. Any help/opinions/info greatly appreciated.

 

Well if you wanna spend the money on the gear's.. go for it.. 250 ain't a bad price at all.. but thats not including part's.. So you be the judge.. IMHO.. your not going to gain all that much from a set of 3.73's.only like .2-.3 or so... And w/ the power your making now.. your 10bolt go boom if your not nice to it.. Upto you....

 

yeah, I guess the gears aren't that big of a deal but I have a very leaky pinion seal, sooo....

What about the driveshaft? no biggie, or yes it's worth it?

and the flywheel? stock resurfaced, or new expensive one?

I don't plan on any 4k or above launches. I'm dead broke cause of my Z, so I'm scratching the bottom of the barrel for my clutch. I need the clutch tho

 

As far as the driveshaft if you have it.. Great.. throw it in.. They'll need to put it back anyway.. so no extra charge there.. As far as Gain's.. Can't hurt ya to go w/ a lighter aluminum one.. I twisted and snapped one... but i am not nice to my car.. ... Pinion seal is going.. yea you need to pull the rear to do it so.. Guess you could do just the seal if.. BUt you might as well do gear's.. Its a money thing.. the install kit, gears, and labor could set ya back 500 + so its really upto your pocket.. As far as flywheel.. Go w/ stock.. I had the stage III and a resurfaced stock is fine..

 

thanks man. good info to keep in mind. yeah, I really don't want a new driveshaft, but if I needed one cause of my setup, I'd get it. Any more opinions or comments from others?

If I go with gears, should I get 3.73 or 4.10's based on my mods?

 

WEll.. Thats a really hard question.. 4.10s work well from what i hear.. Most of the fast guy's like them .. but they are weaker...3.73's is a good well rounded gear.. I have 4.11's in mine and they are fun on the street.. but the 3.70 was better for my car anyway.. Being your probalby about 80rwhp on top of what i was.. i think either will be a good choice..

 

If you think you'll ever want to upgrade the flywheel, now is definitely the time
The driveshaft you can do yourself later on. It's an easy install.

 

yeah, but what would the advantage be with an lightweight flywheel? They are VERY expensive IMO and I don't know what kind of gains I could expect.
BTW BUDM, you have some sweet suspension/chassis mods!

 

Thanks! Chassis/brake mods make the V8 power a lot more useable. Plus most of them are easy to do yourself.
The only advantage to a lighter flywheel is that the engine is a bit quicker revving. I sorta decided to put it in to offset the added weight of heavier wheels and tires. I'd say the difference was about as noticeable as going from the stock steel ds to the LPE aluminum one. But every little bit helps, especially in Ca where there are limits to what you can do to the engine because of emissions.

 

Depending on the weight of the car.. A lighter weight flywheel's accelaration properties might not be all that significant in the 1/4 as the weight from a heavier flywheels tend's to launch the car a lil better w/ less effort then a lighter one.. the momentum helps'.. but its upto you.. $$ Talks...

 

You're right about the way better chassis and brake mods make the power more useable! I did my LCA's, STB, Subframes, and PHB all at once, and I even did swaybar endlinks and bushings in polyurethane for both front and rear and now my car handles like a porsche! (well, not THAT well, but it's nice). Also, I didn't do some kick butt brake mods, but my drilled slotted rotors and hawk pads work OK for now. I'd like to get some wilwood or other comparable brand brakes later on.

Sucks that you got cali emissions tho. I used to live there for 14 years, just not any driving years
Florida rules for doing what you want to your car!

 

Do the 4:10's; their absolutley the best mod I've done. Cost me $150 to have installed so it seems like your shop is a little high. A 1LE alum driveshaft is $240 from Jason Cromer and is a good addition due to your drivetrain spinning faster, reducing the ds mass is a positive. I did a Mac rearend girdle too for bearing support; so far so good; but I haven't come off the line at 2-3k rpm yet with the stock 10 bolt. From a 20mph punch the car really pulls.

Good Luck