Drivetrain Clutch, Torque Converter, Transmission, Driveline, Axles, Rear Ends

Rear end CRUSH SLEEVES...

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Old Dec 6, 2004 | 09:36 PM
  #1  
ninetythreez's Avatar
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From: southeast USA
Rear end CRUSH SLEEVES...

I got a Strange Engineering 3.42 for my rear end which presently has a 2.73 in it from stock build.
The 3.42 is for my type of carrier. I got it used from a former 2.73 rearend Z28 guy who used it for a few months before he got a new carrier and 3.73 gears. He said it whined some so he sold it to me reasonable. I don't mind whining sound since i have no muffler or catalytic convertor either. My question is that since all I have is the ring and pinion,
1. where do I get a new crush sleeve?
2.. also what else will I need to install these gears besides tools, lube and lash measuring equipment?
I have a helper that has done this before but I am supposed to provide the equipment and he is gonna do the work mostly. I want to be prepared. Thanks!
Old Dec 6, 2004 | 10:50 PM
  #2  
PatriotTA's Avatar
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From: Toledo, OH
Re: Rear end CRUSH SLEEVES...

If you go to Thunder Racing's site, they have install kits. They include new seals, bearings, races, gaskets, and a crush sleeve. While you are in there and have everything out, its a good idea to do all that stuff. If you are going to be doing serious drag racing, I'd recommend a solid pinion spacer instead of the crush sleeve (an extra $20 or so).
As for what else you need for install, you were pretty vague on what you have. At the very least, you need the basics like ratchets/sockets, pry bars, hammers, punches, etc. Also you will need a dial indicator, a big (150-200 ft-lbs) torque wrench, and a small torque wrench (0-10 ft lbs or so). I can't remember the exact values I was shooting for, but it was about that. Also, an impact wrench makes things very easy.
Old Dec 7, 2004 | 10:39 AM
  #3  
Fast Caddie's Avatar
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Re: Rear end CRUSH SLEEVES...

Originally Posted by PatriotTA
I'd recommend a solid pinion spacer instead of the crush sleeve (an extra $20 or so).
Agreed. The standard flimsy crush sleeve is what causes a lot of problems. The last guy who did my gears has a ton of experience with 10-bolts and he told me the main reason the gears tend to break is crush sleeve collapse or warpage. When it moves from it's set position ANY at all, your gears become out of line and whinning and/or broken teeth are the result. Of course, it's just one of the problems of the 7.5", but addressing this issue is one of the first places to start.
Old Dec 7, 2004 | 07:58 PM
  #4  
ninetythreez's Avatar
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From: southeast USA
Re: Rear end CRUSH SLEEVES...

I have the necessary tools and pneumatic tools except the big torque wrench. My friend that is helping is a professinal mechanic and is gonna bring his tools oo, so I would hope we got it covered. As we all know, something will ?>&% up though.LOL.. I was told by my auto parts store today that a crush sleeve is a dealer only item. About the solid pinion spacer: I am gonna do street and strip driving. I am gonna start driving my car on the street more, so is this a bad idea for some reason to get a solid sleeve for the street? I don't want to put a constant strain on any other parts street driving either. Thanks for the quick and good info!!!
So how do I get to Thunder Racing's site?
Old Dec 7, 2004 | 08:21 PM
  #5  
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From: Toledo, OH
Re: Rear end CRUSH SLEEVES...

Trust me, the crush sleeve is not a dealer-only item. It came in my install kit, I just never used it since I bought the solid pinion spacer. I would mail it to you, but I am away at school and the remnants of my install kit are at my parents house. I don't know if you can get just the crush sleeve, or it has to come in a kit though. Like I said before, its a good idea to put new bearings and stuff in anyway. If you go with the solid pinion spacer, it is not going to stress anything or create any more noise. It is simply a different (better) method for setting your pinion depth. I think they are pretty easy to set up, but some people b!tch about them. The only thing with them is you have to shim them like you'd shim the carrier, which means trial and error (taking the pinion in and out). It can be somewhat tedious, but the peace of mind is worth it IMO.

Thunder Racing's website is HERE
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