I have done some searching and havn't found anything to answer my question. The clutch is engaging at two different heights, right off the floor and normal (midway up). I assume it's the either the master or slave cylinder going out, but just to be sure I was going to try bleeding it down and see what happens before I replace these parts.

I've found some posts that say the way to bleed the setup is to pull the slave cylinder off, loosen the master cylinder, and take the resivoir cap off. Push the slave cylinder in and then cap the resivoir. Then repeat pushing in and pulling out on the slave cylinder until air is purged out.

Four questions with using this method. One, why would you have to loosen the master cylinder? I don't see how that helps, but maybe it's because I don't understand excatly how it works. Two, instead of removing the slave and maunally pushing and pulling, why couldn't you leave it connected and use the clutch pedal? Three, if your on the ground pushing and pulling on the slave, because I understand it has to be lower than the master cylinder and resivoir to bleed/purge the air out, how are you going to be able to tell when all the air is out? Four, is this the right/best method or should I be doing something else?

 

For the 21 people who looked (22 was the thread "looks" count when I wrote this) and were maybe in same boat I was in and looking here for help, heres what I did.

Tried bleeding the hydrualics with the slave cylinder unbolted from tranny and hanging down, resivoir cap off, pushed in slave rod in with slave vertical (rod facing up), held the rod in and closed the resivoir cap, and then pushed in and out on the slave rod with my hand, and then further with it bolted to the tranny and using the pedal instead of my hand. No change happened after doing this. I will say that I don't know if there was anything wrong with the bleeding procedure I did because I believe the master cylinder was fried from the get-go. So, I bought a whole new resivoir, master cylinder, and slave cylinder, this setup comes hooked together and pre-bleed...ready to go, from Jason Cromer at Sam Taylor Buick/Cadillac, ((850)243-8826). Removed the old and installed the new within 30-45 min. and solved all the problems. With shipping and all it was like $120.00 for the new stuff.

Also the clutch chatters a WHOLE lot less now and engagment is soooo much smoother. I don't know if my old stuff was just wore out before it completly failed or what, but this new setup makes the clutch engagment a TON smoother. The current clutch is a SPEC Stage IV. So, there you have it. Problem solved.