I installed my mcleod single disc, PP, and flywheel over the weekend. The car seems to drive good. The only thing is the clutch petal is very soft. Is it supposed to be very soft. I thought it would be harder to push in. It also engages pretty high up. The worst part of it is that when i got to work today i smelt the same smell that i smelt before. Which i'm pretty sure is burnt clutch. When i pulled out my slp clutch the disc was actually in very good condition. My power steering pump shoots fluid out sometimes. Do you think that this could be the smell and not the clutch? Also is there a good guide on how to bleed your clutch? I have a chiltons manual but it is very confusing to me in there.

 

Well the pedal should be as stiff as it was before.

However you said it is engaging very high. As in the clutch engages when the pedal is all the way out?
If so then I wouldnt worry too much about air in the lines.
If there were air in the lines the clutch would engage right away, or even not disengage at all (meaning you cant put it into gear without rev matching).

 

It starts to engage about half way but it doesn't fully grap untill almost the very top. While driving if i push the clutch pedal about 1/2inch to 1 inch down the clutch will disengage. Is that how its supposed to be. As for the clutch being soft, well i thought it would make the clutch a lot stiffer like my act 2600 did on my talon.

 

here is what to do......pop your hood and take the cap of the clutch fluid resivor. Next, get under the car and take the salve cylinder out from the tranny. Push the slave rod in and out about 10-15 times. Put it back in, and get in the car and pump your clutch pedal few times (nice and slow) Then get under the car again unbolt the slave and push the rod in and out few more times. This should fix your problem.


Now about the clutch grabing all the way on top etc.
I have a street twin and here is what i did to test it.

Jack up the rear end of your car, get in start it and put it into first and slowely release the clutch payin attntion to your rear wheel. Even thou i thought my clutch grabed all the way at the top, the wheels would start spinning when the clutch pedal was just tinny but off the floor.

 

Okay thanks man. I will try that way to bleed it. Also i will try to see where it starts to engage. Maybe i will do that first before i try to bleed it. Or do you think i should bleed it anyways?

 

With that bleed method does the air come out of the system through the resivor?

 

I will only say this: I had the McLeod single setup, and the clutch pedal was noticably lighter than stock. My clutch lasted a good long track abused life too.

 

Thanks for the input Fastbird93. So its a good clutch? Did it seem to engage sort of high as well?

 

If the clutch disengauge/engauges at the very top, there is no need to bleed the system. If the clutch dis/enguages at the very bottom, then that would be a sign that there is air in the line, causing the air to compress as you press the pedal down, instead of the fluid pushing the clutch fork.

 

Good the hear Monk. Thanks for the info. I'm still gonna jack up the car to see where its starts to dis/engage. Then i'm gonna just finish my break in, and let her rip.