Just got back from the track and my new Maddog Stage 3 Kevlar clutch was slipping after I launched ,it started to slip around 4K in both 1 & 2. The best I could get the car to go is 13.66 @ 104 with a 60' time of 2.279. On the advice of a local shop I did NOT have the FW turned I just cleaned it with brake cleaner and a brillo disk in a drill. Do you guys think this could be the cause of the slipping? Also it slipped worse when it was cooled down, it seemed to work better after it was warm, but still slipped. I could not smell the clutch after the runs.

Thanks

 

Never heard of anyone saying to not have the flywheel turned or replaced when doing a new clutch install.

 

He said that when yu turn them that you throught off the geometry,and then it would not disengage properly.

 

More thoughts?

 

Could you elaborate when you say throw off the geometry?

 

He said that if you take to much off the FW then the clutch would not disengage.I'm not saying he is righ but just wondering if that is the reason it's slipping.

 

I would say that you definately need to get the fw resurfaced. Right now there are a bunch of uneven areas on your fw. The clutch disc will never mate properly between the two surfaces and will slip. As far as throwing off the geometry of the clutch fork you just have to get the proper shim to put between the fw and the crankshaft when you bolt it back up. Meaning if the machine shop takes off .xxx thousands from the fw you need to get the same size shim.

 

It is my understanding that turning the flywheel helps to reduce chatter issues and not necessarily "reduce slip".

Personally I would never do a clutch job without turning the flywheel. Might want to double check the pressure plate bolts and make sure they are loc-tited.

 

I agree, but this guy led me down this road and scared me into not turning it. I did red loc-tite it.

 

Thats what I wanted to now. After you turn them then you shim them to what you turned off. I read lots of stuff on here and in GMHTP and they never said anything about that.

Do you think i ruined the clutch disk? Or can i just have the FW turned and re install the same disk? It may have 1500 miles(3000 Km) on the new clutch.

 

You probably didn't ruin it but you really can't tell unless you take it apart and look at the damage, if there is any. I know that I can get my fw turned for around $30 so it would definately be something that I would try first before I spend the big $$$ on a new clutch. Good luck.

 

I have the Maddog stage 3 ceramic and had the kevlar before i have a Alum FW it had chatter but no slip even when it was down to its studs on the clutch after taking it apart it still had no slip. I replaced the FW surface with the rebuild kit put on another Stage 3 and its been good again i did this because i was swapping my 93 6speed to a 95 due to me overshifting figured if its all apart might as well change clutch and get the rebuild kit for my flywheel.

 

$90.00 to turn the stock FW and $30.00 for the shim to bring it back out to where it was origanally. So I think it's a new Alu. FW.

Canada is a great country as long ay you don't have a sports car then they gouge you!!!LOL

 

I have the similar problem with my clutch slipping. The random thing with mine is it started slipping after I changed my clutch master cylinder.

Is it true that you need to get the FW and Clutch balanced prior to installing it?

 

My local clutch maker charges $20.00 and claims shimming is not required. He has turned mine twice and I have never need to shim it.