I have a few questions for people who have successfuly bled their clutch.
My problem seems to be common, as I have searched and many others are in the same boat. Clutch engages right off the floor, hard to get in gear, especially reverse.

Now , my question is, how did it feel while bleeding? My pedal feels normal, so I don't know if I have a mechanical or hydaulic issue. I bled the snot out of it, and I never get big pockets of air, only tiny carbonation looking bubbles. When I push the rod the first half of the travel is a solid, smooth, resistance, then towards the end it feels like the slave creaks in your hand.

It may be the rod on a tight seal, or perhaps it still needs bled. What's weird is there were no leaks, it was just apart for a few weeks. Anyway, I'm just trying to determine if I need to pull the transmisson or keep bleedin/replace the assembly. Thanks

 

It's tough to tell if it's completely bled or not. Can you give more info? Did you just replace the clutch, FW, PP or did you just buy a new slave? I thought I was having a disengagement issue but it turned out to be my pilot bearing. One thing you can do to see if you're getting proper travel out of the slave is take the spacer off and re-install the slave, have someone push the clutch in and watch to see if it looks like the slave is pushing the clutch fork in enough to disengage the clutch.

 

Im having kind of the same issue so I bleed the slave the same way as you then went back and bought a might max vac pump from autozone and did it. I still have the hard reverse problems at times but shifting while driving feels better. It was $30 dollars but if you use it you KNOW its bleed correctly.

 

I replaced the slave/master/resevoir with a new one from the dealer. It felt much better. The next day, ****ty again. So I pulled the transmission back out. I just put a Ram powergrip clutch kit in but I didn't replace the pilot. It looks fine but it's coming out. I will post results.

 

I had the same thing going on with my clutch, i bought a new master cylinder and new clutch, i bled it out the same way and reverse is still hard and 2nd gear still grinds going in to it, i am about to just break down and buy another master cylinder except this time i am going to go with the one summitracing.com has for $225 but any clue what may cause 2nd gear to do that

 

I have the same problem...this one has me stumped.

 

I replaced the pilot bushing, no change.

 

Anyone have any updates?!!

 

Well, I'm not 100% satistisfied, but it's better than it was. My flywheel had been turned 3 times. I couldn't afford a new $400 centerforce, so I got a stock replacement. It measured .155" thicker. It still feels notchy in reverse, I hope I don't glaze this new clutch.

 

Went to the track tonight, missed every gear. definatley worse. It felt better in normal driving...damn it.

 

I've been fighting the same problem, I don't know what to do either.

See my other thread. If I can't figure this out, I guess I will just mill .75" off the slave spacer.

 

Well for me I bled the system more and it worked a little better. So I've been driving it like that since then and it seems to get slightly better on it's own now. Probably air trapped in the system somewhere.

 

Well, I've been fighting this for a month...I finally fixed it.

I had to lengthen the rod from the master to the pedal. My clutch pedal was lower the brake. It had good feel, just not enough throw. The rod measured 7 inches. I had a spare because I replaced it with the whole prebled assembly. So I cut the eyelet 2" from the end on one, and 2.5" on the other. Welded the longer one on, and it was a smidge too long.

So I loosened the master from the firewall and got it on, thighted up master, stepped on the pedal and proceded to blow the slave up..took it back apart, replaced slave, cut 1/4" out of rod, welded back together, and finally a smooth shifting, (even at a dead stop) t-56. Now the clutch pedal is higher than the brake.

I don't know if this is what has happened to everyone elses but I hope it helps someone.

 

Were you able to compare the old master rod to the new one?

Were they they same or was the new setup not identical to the factory setup?

 

They both had an installed length of 7". The new one was a little shorter, and the diameter was a little thicker. It was flush with the end of the master.

The original was recessed about 1/2", so it was longer, but the eyelet on both were 7" from the end of the master.