A lot of clutch pedal play during medium to hard braking
#1
A lot of clutch pedal play during medium to hard braking
Just as the title says. When braking hard, the clutch pedal practically goes all the way to the floor when pressed before any resistane is felt at all. Once stopped, or under normal driving/shifting conditions, the pedal feels fine. I dont exactly see how the two are related. Clutch fluid appears to be full. Any ideas where to look first?
#3
bring this one back up....
I haven't had a whole lot of time to drive it to really figure out whats going on. I will add one more symptom. It can be very hard to shift in to any gear, but more so in reverse...have to use a lot of muscle. I was talking with another member on here and he suggested to try and shift it with out it running, but turn the ignition on to disengage the revers lockout solenoid. I did that and it shifts so smooth, but when the car is running it becomes very hard.
So, the conclusion came out to probably be the through out bearing not allowing the clutch to release from the flywheel.
Just throwing this out there in case anyone had any other suggestions that I can toss around.
Also, is it a bad idea to just replace the pressure plate and TO bearing? really hoping to not spend more than I need to.
I haven't had a whole lot of time to drive it to really figure out whats going on. I will add one more symptom. It can be very hard to shift in to any gear, but more so in reverse...have to use a lot of muscle. I was talking with another member on here and he suggested to try and shift it with out it running, but turn the ignition on to disengage the revers lockout solenoid. I did that and it shifts so smooth, but when the car is running it becomes very hard.
So, the conclusion came out to probably be the through out bearing not allowing the clutch to release from the flywheel.
Just throwing this out there in case anyone had any other suggestions that I can toss around.
Also, is it a bad idea to just replace the pressure plate and TO bearing? really hoping to not spend more than I need to.
#5
that I have not done, but was under the impression you couldn't really do it with the way the LT1's hydraulics are...but was doing some searching and seems I need to find myself a mighty vac. worth a shot and could save some money
#6
If you have trouble finding a MityVac... my dad sells them and can ship.
#7
EDIT: this is the method I found searching around. i'm assuming it is still the preferred method for the LT1 hydraulics. http://www.performanceworks1.com/ls1...h_bleeding.htm
Last edited by Chevycobb; 10-27-2008 at 01:07 PM.
#8
EDIT: this is the method I found searching around. i'm assuming it is still the preferred method for the LT1 hydraulics. http://www.performanceworks1.com/ls1...h_bleeding.htm
#10
I know exactly why. The people that do the categories for the Websense system are a bunch of mindless monkeys that couldn't care less.
Interestingly, the wikipedia page on Bongos (the musical instrument) is in the category "Marijuana", because it starts with "Bong" (and is therefore inaccessible for me from work). The actual page about bongs, titled "Gravity Bong", is not part of that category, and is accessible for me.
Interestingly, the wikipedia page on Bongos (the musical instrument) is in the category "Marijuana", because it starts with "Bong" (and is therefore inaccessible for me from work). The actual page about bongs, titled "Gravity Bong", is not part of that category, and is accessible for me.
#12
well, finally had a chance to get to this and see if it needs to be bled. No air bubbles were seen when the vac was first put to it, and no bubbles when the pedal was pressed probably 25 times. the fluid would just move up and down a hair. looks like i'm gonna need a new t/o bearing and/or PP
#14