A little Information about PerformaBuilt Transmissions
01-14-2008, 06:23 PM
#16
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: BLOOMSBURG PA
Posts: 1,014
Level 3 Build
The level 3 is our strongest offering for the 4L60E at present.
Its unique from the other builds in several ways.
1- The case is prepared cleaned and painted with a tough epoxy Paint.All mating surfaces flat sanded and the polished with scotch brite. New rear case bushing installed. Reverse piston inspected new seals install and then it is placed into the case. Now the rear planet assembly is installed and this is also where the Lever three is unique from the other levels. For this unit we use GM OEM 5 PINION PLANETS. These planets run average $150 each. These planets are installed into the unit.The planet on the right is the rear planetary.
Once this planet is installed we then install new Borg warner or raybestos Low reverse clutches these are not holding clutches for anything other than reverse and in manual low they help to support the Low roller clutch.
The low frictions are on the left and the steel presure plates on the right.
Now we inspect the low roller support and install a new low roller clutch assembly. We then install a case saver support like the other units to help prevent damage to the case during hard launches and the Low support and roller assembly is installed.
The sun gear now has a new bushing installed and is specially modified through the creation of 4 slots. These slots are at the botton of the gear and ride against the breaing race in the rear planet. The reason for this is to improve lube to the rear planet by allowing oil to more easily escape between the bearing and the planet to improve lubrication, This is actually done in all our units however with the LEVEL 3 and the 5 pinion planets its even more important, Event though the 5 pin planet has more pinion area which is presumed to increase there torque handling capability. However you also have more metal to metal contact on the pinions do to the added area so they need more oil to keep them cool and lubricated. I do not have a picture showing this. Now the new Beast sunshell (To date we have never seen a failure here) is installed onto the sun gear and its placed into the transmission.
Now a new thurst washer is installled and the Front Five pinion planet assembly installed again not the cheap aftermarket type. at this time the output shaft is installed after having been carfully inspected and having presurize solvent sent though th lube channels to assure they are clear. Many people miss this or dont note that oil flows at every port in the shaft this is very important. A new output shaft retainer clip is installed these should allways be replaced and never reused. The front sun gear is now prepared like the low sun gear specially sloted and installed into the front planet. Unfortunatly I dont have pictures of the output shaft or the fron sun gears as while I did take the photos they came out very blurry for some reason. I will take them again and add later. The planet on the left is of a front 5 pinion planet.
Next we tackel the input drum again several things here are different from the other units. First as with all the units we press out the input shaft and carefully inspect the Inside spines in the drum for any signs of wear or stress or even that the shaft comes out to easily. It must be a tight fit. We then replace this shaft with a hardened shaft and use Red loctite to assure it does not move. Now we begin the assemble of the drum. We do not use the sleeve inside the drum anymore. At one time we did, This was not changed as a cost cutting factor since the sleeve is quite cheap and easy to install. But rather as a matter of choice. Heres why. In my entire history I have only seen two of these shafts spin in the Input drum And in each case the drum was obviously worn and the shaft had had a loose fit. We have seen 0 of these type failures in any level of performabuilt unit. The problem we have run into however has to do with the aluminum apply pistons that must be used when using the metal sleeve. These pistions are well know to crack even in stock aplications with much lower line presure and stress levels and we have seen this happen even in PerformaBuilt units when we were using the sleeve. The fix for this is to use the steel pistons with the molded seals like we use in all our units however these are completely incompatable with the sleeve input drum, They simply will not fit. You may ask why not only use the aluminum overun piston since its the only one that must clear the sleeve. The problem with this is that the inside diameter of the molded forward piston it must seal to is slighty larger and while you can assemble it this way you cannot get a good seal between the overun piston and the forward piston and it will leak. Now in OD position this would not matter However in the all the lower positions manual 1-2-D this would cause leakage of presure and eventual failure of the overun clutch set Since it is on then. So since we have seen no failures of the input drum from not having the sleeve but we have seen failures of the aluminum pistons it was decided that the greater risk of failure was to be found there, So we opted to use the steel apply pistons instead of the sleeve in the drum.
Below are two of the steel pistons. In most stock aplications except very late models these would be aluminum with removable seals. These are all (3-4)(forward) and (overun) pistons replaced new in every unit.
Now comes the valve body, The valve body is first washed with high presure solvent then rinsed with high presure fresh water, Then blown dry and disassembled and the valve body housing rerinsed and blown dry, The valves are all then reinstalled and checked for proper motion . Modifications for PWM elimination and "other things are done at this time" The bodyis then placed in and oven and heated to 250 degrees F and then removed and again the valves checked for proper motion dry. We then dip the body in lubricant and high presure blow the excess oil off the body. Solenoids are now installed and each checked for mechanical and electrical function. You would actually be amazed we have caught more than a few new solenoids that had issues. This is particulary true of the PCS we have found them several diffeent phases of our checks, With electrical , mechanical and on the test dyno with presures way to high or low and I am speaking of new GM solenoids. So we pay special attention to this solenoid. The PWM solenoid is generally allways reused as it serves no purpose in our build beyond being a Dummy for the PCM to see.
The shift plate is then prepared the appropriate holes enlarged to give adequate appy presure to the clutch sets, If the plate has any damage it is replaced since its simple its either good or bad there is no in between.
On accumulation this is where we differ from many of our competitors. We do not limit accumulation for second gear through spacers, washers or springs. We also do not use the pinless accumulators as by design they to limit accumulation IMO this is a bad move and with the feed sizes we use and retaining the accumulation on all our levels we get a firm but not agressive light throttle shift progressivly getting stronger as the throttle is increased, The basic shift kit for all our units is the same with only variances for the heavy hauler and rocks climbers units, Our kit is not and out of the box kit like some use but rather and accumulation of all the kits we have used over the years. Using what seemed to work best from each along with tricks of our own we picked up.
The trans is then placed on the dyno with a test pan and filter and run. The presure in every gear is carefully monitored and the trans is allways run till it reaches a min temperature of 155 degrees F This test takes around 45 minutes and is much easier than our former way of placing in a vehicle and testing. The presure is ajusted for a max untill it reaches and maintains a presure between 220 and 235 psi and yes we do at times have to pull the pan a couple times to get there.
With this test we are now able to do many things we couldnt before, We can listen for noises that may have gone un noticed with the test vehicle due to the inherent engine nosie. We can more carefully monitor presure since the motor can be set at a and exact RPM and does not waver. Again once the trans is tested and passes. then trans is drained . Pan checked for any unussual debris and the test filter removed and a new one installed along with the final pan.
The individual running the dyno has no other job he remains there watching at all times. And must make a full chart for every trans and sign off on it. In other words if something gets by we know who to talk to
Well thats it for the level 3 hope you enjoyed. Sorry dont have more pictures will likley add some later as I get the chance to take them.
Its unique from the other builds in several ways.
1- The case is prepared cleaned and painted with a tough epoxy Paint.All mating surfaces flat sanded and the polished with scotch brite. New rear case bushing installed. Reverse piston inspected new seals install and then it is placed into the case. Now the rear planet assembly is installed and this is also where the Lever three is unique from the other levels. For this unit we use GM OEM 5 PINION PLANETS. These planets run average $150 each. These planets are installed into the unit.The planet on the right is the rear planetary.
Once this planet is installed we then install new Borg warner or raybestos Low reverse clutches these are not holding clutches for anything other than reverse and in manual low they help to support the Low roller clutch.
The low frictions are on the left and the steel presure plates on the right.
Now we inspect the low roller support and install a new low roller clutch assembly. We then install a case saver support like the other units to help prevent damage to the case during hard launches and the Low support and roller assembly is installed.
The sun gear now has a new bushing installed and is specially modified through the creation of 4 slots. These slots are at the botton of the gear and ride against the breaing race in the rear planet. The reason for this is to improve lube to the rear planet by allowing oil to more easily escape between the bearing and the planet to improve lubrication, This is actually done in all our units however with the LEVEL 3 and the 5 pinion planets its even more important, Event though the 5 pin planet has more pinion area which is presumed to increase there torque handling capability. However you also have more metal to metal contact on the pinions do to the added area so they need more oil to keep them cool and lubricated. I do not have a picture showing this. Now the new Beast sunshell (To date we have never seen a failure here) is installed onto the sun gear and its placed into the transmission.
Now a new thurst washer is installled and the Front Five pinion planet assembly installed again not the cheap aftermarket type. at this time the output shaft is installed after having been carfully inspected and having presurize solvent sent though th lube channels to assure they are clear. Many people miss this or dont note that oil flows at every port in the shaft this is very important. A new output shaft retainer clip is installed these should allways be replaced and never reused. The front sun gear is now prepared like the low sun gear specially sloted and installed into the front planet. Unfortunatly I dont have pictures of the output shaft or the fron sun gears as while I did take the photos they came out very blurry for some reason. I will take them again and add later. The planet on the left is of a front 5 pinion planet.
Next we tackel the input drum again several things here are different from the other units. First as with all the units we press out the input shaft and carefully inspect the Inside spines in the drum for any signs of wear or stress or even that the shaft comes out to easily. It must be a tight fit. We then replace this shaft with a hardened shaft and use Red loctite to assure it does not move. Now we begin the assemble of the drum. We do not use the sleeve inside the drum anymore. At one time we did, This was not changed as a cost cutting factor since the sleeve is quite cheap and easy to install. But rather as a matter of choice. Heres why. In my entire history I have only seen two of these shafts spin in the Input drum And in each case the drum was obviously worn and the shaft had had a loose fit. We have seen 0 of these type failures in any level of performabuilt unit. The problem we have run into however has to do with the aluminum apply pistons that must be used when using the metal sleeve. These pistions are well know to crack even in stock aplications with much lower line presure and stress levels and we have seen this happen even in PerformaBuilt units when we were using the sleeve. The fix for this is to use the steel pistons with the molded seals like we use in all our units however these are completely incompatable with the sleeve input drum, They simply will not fit. You may ask why not only use the aluminum overun piston since its the only one that must clear the sleeve. The problem with this is that the inside diameter of the molded forward piston it must seal to is slighty larger and while you can assemble it this way you cannot get a good seal between the overun piston and the forward piston and it will leak. Now in OD position this would not matter However in the all the lower positions manual 1-2-D this would cause leakage of presure and eventual failure of the overun clutch set Since it is on then. So since we have seen no failures of the input drum from not having the sleeve but we have seen failures of the aluminum pistons it was decided that the greater risk of failure was to be found there, So we opted to use the steel apply pistons instead of the sleeve in the drum.
Below are two of the steel pistons. In most stock aplications except very late models these would be aluminum with removable seals. These are all (3-4)(forward) and (overun) pistons replaced new in every unit.
Now comes the valve body, The valve body is first washed with high presure solvent then rinsed with high presure fresh water, Then blown dry and disassembled and the valve body housing rerinsed and blown dry, The valves are all then reinstalled and checked for proper motion . Modifications for PWM elimination and "other things are done at this time" The bodyis then placed in and oven and heated to 250 degrees F and then removed and again the valves checked for proper motion dry. We then dip the body in lubricant and high presure blow the excess oil off the body. Solenoids are now installed and each checked for mechanical and electrical function. You would actually be amazed we have caught more than a few new solenoids that had issues. This is particulary true of the PCS we have found them several diffeent phases of our checks, With electrical , mechanical and on the test dyno with presures way to high or low and I am speaking of new GM solenoids. So we pay special attention to this solenoid. The PWM solenoid is generally allways reused as it serves no purpose in our build beyond being a Dummy for the PCM to see.
The shift plate is then prepared the appropriate holes enlarged to give adequate appy presure to the clutch sets, If the plate has any damage it is replaced since its simple its either good or bad there is no in between.
On accumulation this is where we differ from many of our competitors. We do not limit accumulation for second gear through spacers, washers or springs. We also do not use the pinless accumulators as by design they to limit accumulation IMO this is a bad move and with the feed sizes we use and retaining the accumulation on all our levels we get a firm but not agressive light throttle shift progressivly getting stronger as the throttle is increased, The basic shift kit for all our units is the same with only variances for the heavy hauler and rocks climbers units, Our kit is not and out of the box kit like some use but rather and accumulation of all the kits we have used over the years. Using what seemed to work best from each along with tricks of our own we picked up.
The trans is then placed on the dyno with a test pan and filter and run. The presure in every gear is carefully monitored and the trans is allways run till it reaches a min temperature of 155 degrees F This test takes around 45 minutes and is much easier than our former way of placing in a vehicle and testing. The presure is ajusted for a max untill it reaches and maintains a presure between 220 and 235 psi and yes we do at times have to pull the pan a couple times to get there.
With this test we are now able to do many things we couldnt before, We can listen for noises that may have gone un noticed with the test vehicle due to the inherent engine nosie. We can more carefully monitor presure since the motor can be set at a and exact RPM and does not waver. Again once the trans is tested and passes. then trans is drained . Pan checked for any unussual debris and the test filter removed and a new one installed along with the final pan.
The individual running the dyno has no other job he remains there watching at all times. And must make a full chart for every trans and sign off on it. In other words if something gets by we know who to talk to
Well thats it for the level 3 hope you enjoyed. Sorry dont have more pictures will likley add some later as I get the chance to take them.
Last edited by Performabuilt; 02-23-2008 at 11:19 PM.
03-02-2008, 01:03 PM
#17
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: BLOOMSBURG PA
Posts: 1,014
New Dyno
We recently got and have functioning our DYNO here is a little description. It was built for us from a design I made by a local but nationally known CYCLE SHOP.
I figured they make customer bikes bodies from scratch all the time so why not , We wanted a dyno but at the same time we didn’t need one that could test every trans for every kind of car, We needed one to test the trans we sell. After all the astro dyno was on its last legs. We beat on her all she could stand. So they took on the project and here is what we ended up with its a static brake type driven by a 40 hp three phase electric motor.
I must say I am very pleased with this addition to the PerformaBuit tools. While there are advantages to a vehicle test there are plenty to a DYNO too , 1 being the ability to hear better what’s happening with the trans and the ability to stop and make quick changes and pressure adjustments easily. Our new addition cannot test FWD but can test any rear wheel drive application, Later when we finish a few cosmetic additions I will post a picture of it, But we have been using it a little over a week and other than a minor snafu with the brake part. (Ripped the splines out of the center. electric motors are the hotrods of the future, Fixed now I have been very pleased with it. You may have noticed the past week I haven’t been around as much, This is why , They built it now its was my job to make all the gadgets to make it do all we wanted and make sure it did them well. I guess it was handy taking electronics engineering in 2 years at college after all. Just wish had done better in English and grammar as all of you I am sure know lol.
Frank
I figured they make customer bikes bodies from scratch all the time so why not , We wanted a dyno but at the same time we didn’t need one that could test every trans for every kind of car, We needed one to test the trans we sell. After all the astro dyno was on its last legs. We beat on her all she could stand. So they took on the project and here is what we ended up with its a static brake type driven by a 40 hp three phase electric motor.
I must say I am very pleased with this addition to the PerformaBuit tools. While there are advantages to a vehicle test there are plenty to a DYNO too , 1 being the ability to hear better what’s happening with the trans and the ability to stop and make quick changes and pressure adjustments easily. Our new addition cannot test FWD but can test any rear wheel drive application, Later when we finish a few cosmetic additions I will post a picture of it, But we have been using it a little over a week and other than a minor snafu with the brake part. (Ripped the splines out of the center. electric motors are the hotrods of the future, Fixed now I have been very pleased with it. You may have noticed the past week I haven’t been around as much, This is why , They built it now its was my job to make all the gadgets to make it do all we wanted and make sure it did them well. I guess it was handy taking electronics engineering in 2 years at college after all. Just wish had done better in English and grammar as all of you I am sure know lol.
Frank
03-02-2008, 01:06 PM
#18
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: BLOOMSBURG PA
Posts: 1,014
Cooler installation, Tips, Hint, Do's , Dont's information
Many of you add aftermarket coolers to your cars and this is allways a good idea. Here are some hints.
1-Allways mount the cooler in a place that has good air flow and if mounting in front of the radiator always make sure the fin's in the cooler are parael with the fin's in the radiator to avoid restricting air flow to the radiator. If you must place the cooler in and area with litle air flow a FAN is a must.
2-When Installing coolers make sure lines are clear of anything that can rub them and always use line thats aproved for trans/hydraulic fluid. Fuel line will not work and will break down in transmission fluid.
3-By passing the radiator is the way I prefer a cooler be set up. Generally the trans will run cooler this way and additionally this may take some of the load off the radiators job of cooling the engine.
4-When hooking up multiple coolers sevral things should be noted. The cooler itself is a restriction of flow and this restriction while not a problem for the cooling or lube to the trans can cause excessive presure inside the converter. This can force the converter against the flex plate more so than normal and cause wear to the engine thrust bearing. A stopped up or severly restricted cooler or cooler lines can do the same. So when installing more than one cooler its advised to put them in paraell with each other, This means one line from the trans is split with a Y and one line run to each cooler then out of each and into a Y back to a single line running to the trans. This will assure adequate cooling while reducing the wear to the engine thrust bearing. Always use line thats at least as large as the inlets in the cooler, Avoid exstreme twist or turns in them particularly with rubber lines.
5-Type and brands of coolers. I really have no preference here as far as brand. From my expereince and exspensive brand name or a generic unit appear to do tha same job. I have found the stacked plate (Flat tube) Types when measured inlet to outlet temp drop tend to be more efficient in the same dimensional sizes with a greater temperature drop. I did a test once with two coolers in paraell one round tube and one flat with a laser thermometer to determine this.
6-This is not specifically about a cooler but about cooling. Always be sure that the metal lines coming from the trans under car do not contact the headers or exhaust. I once had a car where the trans temps would sky rocket when the car was being run hard and couldnt understand why. I after some looking around found that the cooler lines in and out were pinned against the headers. This would super heat the fluid when the headers got hot. Moved them away and the problem was solved, So allways keep trans cooler lines factory or otherwise as far away from the exhaust as possible.
7-Trans temps- This question get ask alot whats TOO HOT. Well ideally you want you average temp to stay under 190 degrees however I would not get to conerned till the temps get at and or over 230 degrees. Heat can damage a trans but with the exception of extreme heat 250 or higher this damage is a long term killer by breaking down fluid and causing rubber seals to harden and break.
8-Never use your cooler lines to remove fluid from your trans by starting the engine. or in and attempt to flush by catching fluid in a pan while adding fluid to the dipstick. When this is done no lube is beig sent to the planets and bushings and the can go dry and melt down very quickly detroying or significantly shortening the life of your transmission.
9-It is advisable to fully and properly flush a cooler especially when a converter failure is involved. Where a trans internal failure is unlikley to put debris in the cooler since all fluid coming from trans must travel through the trans filter. Where fluid coming from the Pump or converter does not and any debris from these will certainly end up in the cooler. Its allways a good idea to power flush a cooler or replace after a failure but is particulary important in this case of this type failure. Anything thats in your cooler or lines will end up in your valve body, Bushings and Planets. A cooler cannot be properly cleaned simply by blowing air through them. A can of cooler flush which most trans shops and or trans parts suppliers should have followed by a blow out with air is the correct way to do it.
10-When installing rubber cooler lines to metal lines its a good idea to put a small flair at the end of the metal line. Not too big because you will tear the line on the inside during install. Then place a clamp just ahead of the flair. Also roughening up the outer surface of the metal line with very coarse sand paper in area where clamp will ride will help assure a good seal and reduce the possibility of blow off.Never over tighten clamps to the point of the rubber ozzing through or being cut this well cause a failure too.
11-Temp sending units- The best place for these is in the pan since that will give the best average temperature which is whats important, Using the presure port is ok however you will show temps 10 to 20 dress higher average than you would in the pan.I do not suggest placing temp senders in either the inlet or outlet from the cooler as they will increase cooler restriction and increase the odds of a leak.
1-Allways mount the cooler in a place that has good air flow and if mounting in front of the radiator always make sure the fin's in the cooler are parael with the fin's in the radiator to avoid restricting air flow to the radiator. If you must place the cooler in and area with litle air flow a FAN is a must.
2-When Installing coolers make sure lines are clear of anything that can rub them and always use line thats aproved for trans/hydraulic fluid. Fuel line will not work and will break down in transmission fluid.
3-By passing the radiator is the way I prefer a cooler be set up. Generally the trans will run cooler this way and additionally this may take some of the load off the radiators job of cooling the engine.
4-When hooking up multiple coolers sevral things should be noted. The cooler itself is a restriction of flow and this restriction while not a problem for the cooling or lube to the trans can cause excessive presure inside the converter. This can force the converter against the flex plate more so than normal and cause wear to the engine thrust bearing. A stopped up or severly restricted cooler or cooler lines can do the same. So when installing more than one cooler its advised to put them in paraell with each other, This means one line from the trans is split with a Y and one line run to each cooler then out of each and into a Y back to a single line running to the trans. This will assure adequate cooling while reducing the wear to the engine thrust bearing. Always use line thats at least as large as the inlets in the cooler, Avoid exstreme twist or turns in them particularly with rubber lines.
5-Type and brands of coolers. I really have no preference here as far as brand. From my expereince and exspensive brand name or a generic unit appear to do tha same job. I have found the stacked plate (Flat tube) Types when measured inlet to outlet temp drop tend to be more efficient in the same dimensional sizes with a greater temperature drop. I did a test once with two coolers in paraell one round tube and one flat with a laser thermometer to determine this.
6-This is not specifically about a cooler but about cooling. Always be sure that the metal lines coming from the trans under car do not contact the headers or exhaust. I once had a car where the trans temps would sky rocket when the car was being run hard and couldnt understand why. I after some looking around found that the cooler lines in and out were pinned against the headers. This would super heat the fluid when the headers got hot. Moved them away and the problem was solved, So allways keep trans cooler lines factory or otherwise as far away from the exhaust as possible.
7-Trans temps- This question get ask alot whats TOO HOT. Well ideally you want you average temp to stay under 190 degrees however I would not get to conerned till the temps get at and or over 230 degrees. Heat can damage a trans but with the exception of extreme heat 250 or higher this damage is a long term killer by breaking down fluid and causing rubber seals to harden and break.
8-Never use your cooler lines to remove fluid from your trans by starting the engine. or in and attempt to flush by catching fluid in a pan while adding fluid to the dipstick. When this is done no lube is beig sent to the planets and bushings and the can go dry and melt down very quickly detroying or significantly shortening the life of your transmission.
9-It is advisable to fully and properly flush a cooler especially when a converter failure is involved. Where a trans internal failure is unlikley to put debris in the cooler since all fluid coming from trans must travel through the trans filter. Where fluid coming from the Pump or converter does not and any debris from these will certainly end up in the cooler. Its allways a good idea to power flush a cooler or replace after a failure but is particulary important in this case of this type failure. Anything thats in your cooler or lines will end up in your valve body, Bushings and Planets. A cooler cannot be properly cleaned simply by blowing air through them. A can of cooler flush which most trans shops and or trans parts suppliers should have followed by a blow out with air is the correct way to do it.
10-When installing rubber cooler lines to metal lines its a good idea to put a small flair at the end of the metal line. Not too big because you will tear the line on the inside during install. Then place a clamp just ahead of the flair. Also roughening up the outer surface of the metal line with very coarse sand paper in area where clamp will ride will help assure a good seal and reduce the possibility of blow off.Never over tighten clamps to the point of the rubber ozzing through or being cut this well cause a failure too.
11-Temp sending units- The best place for these is in the pan since that will give the best average temperature which is whats important, Using the presure port is ok however you will show temps 10 to 20 dress higher average than you would in the pan.I do not suggest placing temp senders in either the inlet or outlet from the cooler as they will increase cooler restriction and increase the odds of a leak.
04-01-2008, 10:27 PM
#20
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: BLOOMSBURG PA
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PerformaBuilt 4L80E BUILD SPECIAL
This is the case with a hard oil resistant enamel coating.
Case Cleaned and empty.
Case with race for thrust washer installed.
Stock and Billet intermediate shafts
Billet intermediate shaft installed .
Planet assemblies note maching for bearing rear planet at left.
Planet assembly in trans with band.
Bottom of center support with thrust washer and bearing installed.
Top of center support with Transgo special blue sealing rings installed
Center support installed in case with intermediate (2nd) apply piston. And yes I know the return springs are not yet installed. I put them in after the install for some reason.
That as far As I got today more next week
04-06-2008, 05:52 PM
#21
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Join Date: Oct 2006
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Intermediate clutch installed
Direct clutch drum and Intermediate overun band installed. I have found its easier to install the drum without the clutch set first. Then install the set as shown below
Make the drum easier to hold on to when indexing the Intermediate clutch set to it.
Forward clutch assemby
Forward clutch assembled
Forward clutch installed in case and indexed into the direct clutch, The billet shafts are a tight fit and makes the indexing a little agravating.
Overun and overdrive clutch drum
Overun/overdrive drum with frictions installed
OD assembly ready to install
OD assembly installed into the case.
04-06-2008, 05:54 PM
#22
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Join Date: Oct 2006
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Installing the Stage 1 overdrive frictions and new steels
OD clutches installed complete.
Close up of billet input shaft from CK PERFORMANCE.
Pump installed
Pump installed with new front seal
Case valve body channels with od and center support bolts installed.
Case VB channels with low/reverse and intermediate overun servos along with check ball installed.
Well thats all I have till tomorrow I will be finishing up then and preparing to dyno . Will post more pics in a couple days
06-24-2008, 05:08 PM
#24
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Join Date: Oct 2006
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New converter offerings from PerformaBuilt
Here at PerformaBuilt we now offer three distinct style custom converters.
All three are built in the same manor with only the addition of the following for each level.
The 1 level the one everyone is familiar with is the Bolt on ring type, They have served us well and should not be discounted as they are and excellent converter, However they will now only be available in combos with our levels 1 and 2 units.
The next will be our new billet converter level 2 converter this converter is noted by the addition of the billet front cover and the large area lockup clutch and can be purchased with our levels 1-2 and 3 transmissions.
Our best offering has the addition besides the billet cover and the large clutch the addition of a mechanical diode in place of the sprag. This converter is only available with the level 3 purchase.
For now the billet converter can only be purchased in a package with the transmission. Please call for pricing on these options as I will not for now be posting prices etc for these on our website as its in the process of a major overhaul itself.
Bellow are pictures of a disassembled billet version but bear in mind that the regular bolt on ring type if built in the same manor minus the billet cover and large clutch.
These are available now.
All three are built in the same manor with only the addition of the following for each level.
The 1 level the one everyone is familiar with is the Bolt on ring type, They have served us well and should not be discounted as they are and excellent converter, However they will now only be available in combos with our levels 1 and 2 units.
The next will be our new billet converter level 2 converter this converter is noted by the addition of the billet front cover and the large area lockup clutch and can be purchased with our levels 1-2 and 3 transmissions.
Our best offering has the addition besides the billet cover and the large clutch the addition of a mechanical diode in place of the sprag. This converter is only available with the level 3 purchase.
For now the billet converter can only be purchased in a package with the transmission. Please call for pricing on these options as I will not for now be posting prices etc for these on our website as its in the process of a major overhaul itself.
Bellow are pictures of a disassembled billet version but bear in mind that the regular bolt on ring type if built in the same manor minus the billet cover and large clutch.
These are available now.
Last edited by Performabuilt; 06-24-2008 at 05:10 PM.
09-04-2012, 06:28 PM
#26
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: texarkana texas
Posts: 6
Re: A little Information about PerformaBuilt Transmissions
lookingfor advice for my sons transmission issues, probably needs a new one, 93 z28, i think its a cusp year some with 700r4 and some with the later,
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fundone2000-RZ
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07-21-2015 07:21 AM
