Key lesson learned in LT1 clutch replacement
08-01-2017, 11:15 PM
#1
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 119
Key lesson learned in LT1 clutch replacement
Note to future self and others after I had to deal with the frustration of the LT1 TOB fork. I hope this helps others:
1. Trans has to be angled down enough to see and access the top bell housing bolts.
2. I used multiple socket extenders (almost 4 feet long) to remove the top 4 bolts. Short extenders close to the bolts with a pivoting adapter on the socket.
3. Pull fork off of its clips before separating the transmission - fork will only move about 3/4 of an inch before it hits the bell housing.
4. Do not remove the two lower bell housing bolts - loosen them enough to separate the transmission form the engine about 1/2 to 3/4 inch.
5. Now go back to the fork and pull it away from the throw out bearing (TOB). Fork will pull another 3 inches out of the bell housing. You may need to shift the trans back and forth to get the fork to free up. if it does not come out the additional 3 inches, you will not be able to separate the trans from the motor.
6. When installing, I mated the spines, pilot, and guide pegs and made sure it mated and fit flush. I again only installed the two bottom housing bolts - only enough to allow me to separate the transmission form the engine about 1/2 to 3/4 inch.
7. I then separated the trans from the engine about 1/2 to 3/4 inch and was able to slide the fork in the TOB grove and snap the fork into the retaining clip. if the fork is resting on the pressure plate, you did not mate it to the TOB groove. It is sitting on top of the TOB and will not work. If properly installed, the fork end will be flush with the bell housing opening (opening without the slave cylinder spacer).
8. Proceed to add all the other bolts and double check that they are all tightened to spec.
1. Trans has to be angled down enough to see and access the top bell housing bolts.
2. I used multiple socket extenders (almost 4 feet long) to remove the top 4 bolts. Short extenders close to the bolts with a pivoting adapter on the socket.
3. Pull fork off of its clips before separating the transmission - fork will only move about 3/4 of an inch before it hits the bell housing.
4. Do not remove the two lower bell housing bolts - loosen them enough to separate the transmission form the engine about 1/2 to 3/4 inch.
5. Now go back to the fork and pull it away from the throw out bearing (TOB). Fork will pull another 3 inches out of the bell housing. You may need to shift the trans back and forth to get the fork to free up. if it does not come out the additional 3 inches, you will not be able to separate the trans from the motor.
6. When installing, I mated the spines, pilot, and guide pegs and made sure it mated and fit flush. I again only installed the two bottom housing bolts - only enough to allow me to separate the transmission form the engine about 1/2 to 3/4 inch.
7. I then separated the trans from the engine about 1/2 to 3/4 inch and was able to slide the fork in the TOB grove and snap the fork into the retaining clip. if the fork is resting on the pressure plate, you did not mate it to the TOB groove. It is sitting on top of the TOB and will not work. If properly installed, the fork end will be flush with the bell housing opening (opening without the slave cylinder spacer).
8. Proceed to add all the other bolts and double check that they are all tightened to spec.
