How hard is it to pull the trans in a 2000 Z28 A4. I have heard that it can't be done with out a lift, but if I can do it, it will save me about $600. So any help would be great...........thanks

 

If the underside is the same, with the same bolts, mounts, and access as my 94 it is not that hard. I do not know how hard it will be with the dual catalytic converters since I have not seen the underside of one. I pulled and installed my transmission on my 94 in about 5.5 hours without a lift using jack stands, and hydraulic floor jacks. There are tools that obviously make the job a lot easier like an impact gun, and very long extensions. Extra sets of hands never hurt either.

 

The job can be done without a lift (pretty much any job can be) but it won't be the easiest job you do on your car! I had to replace the flexplate on my car last year, so all we had to do was split the tranny from the motor, and that job was a b!tch. When Shibby says you need long extensions, it's true ... you need LONG extensions ... like ~18" or ~24" at least!! On the LS1 (not sure if the LT1 would be like this or not? ) there is a bellhousing bolt at TOP DEAD CENTER between the motor/trans. Yes, that's right, you've got a couple on each side, a couple a little further up, but 1 at the very TOP MIDDLE!!! That long extension and a swivel socket or universal will be very helpful!!

I don't know how hard it will be to get past the exhaust though?

 

The LT1's do not have one top dead center. There are two on top on each side, but not in the middle.

Also, it may help when you are taking it out to lower the back end of the transmission so the engine rotates back just a little. That way you can get at the bolts easier. Also, when you take the torque arm out spray some soapy water on the rubber mount/part where it slides into on the transmission. This will make it way easier to pull out, and slide in.

 

That's what I thought (same as a Gen-I SBC) but wasn't sure if it was the pattern of the 4L60E that required that bolt up there. Obviously they changed this for the LS1's, and if I'm not mistaken, I think the bellhousing is actually different between the 2 generations as well? On my LS1, the bellhousing is solid all around, whereas I think the LT1 version would only be the upper half (like an umbrella) and just has a cover plate for the bottom half? Is that right?? (I know that's how the old TH350's are, and I'm assuming the earlier 4L60E's were still the same way).

 

FWIW if you reach back behind the motor from the top, you can EASILY access the top 2 bolts(LT1) or 3 bolts (LS1). You basically have to almost lay on top of the motor to do this. If you've ever removed your EGR bolts on an LT1 the tranny bolts are only a few inches furter down.Your first tranny R+R will take 5-6 hours easy, your second will take 2 hours.

 

Have you ACTUALLY done that on an LS1?? Trust me, my hand would NOT fit between the top of the engine and the base of the windshield. Heck, it's even a tight squeeze to get at the plug wires up top because that space is so short. Going from underneath was the only way to get that top bolt.

 

I agree with Pete. Even though it sounds like a good idea, and could possibly work for some people, not everyone's hands, arms, and what not are built the same. I can reach my hand back there just fine, but can my neighbor? No. Also, those bolts are on there very tight. You would need some good leverage to get them loose, or tightened from up there.

As for the first time taking 5-6 hours, yes. Start this project in the morning, and do not plan on getting done until the evening, especially if you are doing it alone. Here's a list of helpful tools I used also.
-impact gun
-crawler
-lots of sockets (from 10mm to 15mm or higher, including deep sockets)
-open ended wrenches (to hold the top side while I turned the nut)
-4 other hands

EDIT: Yes, the bottom half of the LT1 transmissions have a shield plate to cover the torque converter, and flexplate. It's four 10mm bolts.

 

OK, I forgot to mention that by unbolting the crossmember and letting the tranny/motor tilt back the bolts are more accessable. You can at least try it. On my LT1 you just follow down the back of the motor just past the valve cover and the bolts are right there. I guess I just assumed they would be in the same spot on an LS1. Like I said, at least give it a try, it can't hurt.

 

I am going to be dropping the trans on my lt1 for the first time too. Im in the same boat..almost. I plan to have a friend come over who has done it before on his tbrid so that should help some. I've hear it takes about 3 people, when you are pulling it off the dolls. A couple to pull it off and one to hold it up.

 

I did it about 3 weeks ago and I am going to put my trans back in on monday morning. Like they have been saying, underneath is the ONLY way. start by taking the crossmember off, then unbolt the trans mount, and rear torque arm. Then remove the driveshaft while the car is on jackstands located at the standard points for removing tires. then you will need to unbolt the bellhousing while the trans is supported by a hydraulic jack and a piece of wood(so you don't dent the trans pan). Then unbolt the torque converter. I did this with 2 other people, one working, one helping, and one holding a light. like they said, about 5.5 hours even though GM book time says 7.5 for removal only. its a pain in the... but you do not need a lift.

 

Thanks guys I think I'm gonna try it monday unless I find someone to do it really cheap, between now and then