how do i know what stall to go with?
how do i know what stall to go with?
Well first off i have a 94 z28 a4, I have no problems with my transmission but i want more torque. I found a transmission shop that will performance build my transmission for 1250$ and that comes with gears, shift kit, torque converter, and cooler. The subject came up when talking to Lloyd Elliot about heads and he asked what brand parts was the shop using because the price was pretty cheap and he thought i should buy my own torque converter and said go with yank. Ive been looking at yank converters but i dont know the difference between a 3500 stall 4000 and so on. how do i find which one would be best for me.
I am looking for as much torque poss, without messing anything up and car is my daily driver.
I am looking for as much torque poss, without messing anything up and car is my daily driver.
If you are looking for a built tranny I would go with some of the better-known vendors such as performabuilt, CPT, FLT etc... give them a call and see what they can do for you. $1250 for everything you said it included probably will yield you a stock rebuild with either a stock stall or stock sized restalled converter. Dunno what you mean by "gears" because that in your rear end and not associated with a tranny build. As far as getting more torque, no tranny, stall or set of rear gears will help you make more torque but they will help you utilize the torque you are already making.
Concerning a stall, I would do some research and call some of the vendors, they are usually more than willing to help you pick out the right converter for your set-up. Vig and Yank are the top dogs but also cost the most as well. Circle D, Fuddle, TCI, Edge all offer lower priced converters but some people have had bad experiences. I personally run a Fuddle 3000 in my bolt-on Lt1 with no problems and soon will be putting a CC503 to match up with it. Some people will tell you to go big and others will disagree. I love my 3000 as it made a huge difference over stock and will work with the cam nicely while still retaining driveability (the car is my D).
Concerning a stall, I would do some research and call some of the vendors, they are usually more than willing to help you pick out the right converter for your set-up. Vig and Yank are the top dogs but also cost the most as well. Circle D, Fuddle, TCI, Edge all offer lower priced converters but some people have had bad experiences. I personally run a Fuddle 3000 in my bolt-on Lt1 with no problems and soon will be putting a CC503 to match up with it. Some people will tell you to go big and others will disagree. I love my 3000 as it made a huge difference over stock and will work with the cam nicely while still retaining driveability (the car is my D).
I agree with cas, I'd go with a better known company since it's so rare to find someone to build a 4L60E correctly. CPT's top of the line rebuild is only $1400 and it's proven to be bullet proof thus far. The link to his site is in my sig.
As for a converter, I'd recomend giving Edge converters a call and talk to Andre. He's their tech guy and is more than willing to take the time to talk with you about what exactly you want. They can set the stall rpm and stall torque ratio to whatever would best suite your needs. Their link is also in my sig.
As for a converter, I'd recomend giving Edge converters a call and talk to Andre. He's their tech guy and is more than willing to take the time to talk with you about what exactly you want. They can set the stall rpm and stall torque ratio to whatever would best suite your needs. Their link is also in my sig.
DD. Yank SS3600. Very tight converter but performs awesome.
I'm going with a PT4000, but i don't DD my car.
Hell with these trannies, I would run what you have and put money back for when it fails. Put a shift kit in if you like, but I probably wouldn't even waste my money on that. Only problem is depending on how the tranny fails it could take your TC with it, and that would suck after dropping 700 bucks on a converter.
$1,200 does sound like a stock rebuild though.
I'm going with a PT4000, but i don't DD my car.
Hell with these trannies, I would run what you have and put money back for when it fails. Put a shift kit in if you like, but I probably wouldn't even waste my money on that. Only problem is depending on how the tranny fails it could take your TC with it, and that would suck after dropping 700 bucks on a converter.
$1,200 does sound like a stock rebuild though.
Thaks alot im going to look into cpt i rather pay a extra 150 for it to be done right than another 1250 to have it built again
and as far as what ive done so far, i baught it with a slowmasters cat back(changing soon), i put a K&N, and the guy i baught it from said he had the heads done, but it runs like my friends stock lt1 so i doubt it, and i made a fan switch. thats all i have now. Im saving up to have it all done at once with LT's, ory, 3.73, magnaflow catback, le1 or le2 heads and cam, and a madz28 tune.
and as far as what ive done so far, i baught it with a slowmasters cat back(changing soon), i put a K&N, and the guy i baught it from said he had the heads done, but it runs like my friends stock lt1 so i doubt it, and i made a fan switch. thats all i have now. Im saving up to have it all done at once with LT's, ory, 3.73, magnaflow catback, le1 or le2 heads and cam, and a madz28 tune.
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