Ok, I have decided to go with an automatic transmission in my originally equiped t-56 95 bird. But, I have read lots of bad things about the 4L60E. But, Frank has talked to me alot about how good they can be IF built correctly. Still, I am not sure if I want to chance it.

So, anyone who has gone from a 4L60E to a TH400 and NOT liked it? It seems simpler to do, no wiring harness, computer update, and a hell of a lot cheaper. But, cheaper is not always better. I would rather get the best tranny now and be done with it.

My car will be about 440rwhp, its 422rwhp now. It is above all a daily driver! But, I do beat on it often, cuz what fun is a beefy motor if you cant rev it at ricers, and tear up the streets racin ****stangs? LOL.

I have an Arizona Speed and Marine 58mm throttle body for a 95, no kickdown cable. Would I need to make one somehow to make the TH400 work?

Again, I expect my transmission to go at least 60,000 or more miles before I have to screw with it. If this isn't possible, then maybe I should just rebuild my stick.

Opinions NEEDED!
Thanks
Cody

 

If you want a reliable setup that you aren't going to drag race a ton, just do a basic rebuild on the T56, throw a decent clutch at it and call it a day. You would hate no OD with the TH400. Even with your 3.42s (definitely not ideal for drag racing) you would be doing 3100rpm at 70mph. Also note that changing to an auto, you will have additional drivetrain losses which will lower your bench racing dyno number.

 

Well, consistency is what I am looking for, and with the manual, there is alot of human error there. Yeah I know, daily driver first, but I would love to go to the track and just hammer on it and hold on! I bought the car for spirited driving with the stick, but the car has come along ways since those days. Its time to switch to the auto.

I will be getting a 12 bolt, with 3.73s. That is down the road though, tranny comes first.

Looking into rebuilding my tranny, its gonna be expensive as hell. Plus the mcleod street twin... that crap adds up, and I still have the shock of a stick on my rear. Its just that all signs point to upgrading to an auto.

And as far as desktop dyno numbers, Im over that. Right now I cant get the bastard to hook, so what good is all my power if it spins like a retard? The clutch stinks, the tires stink, just a loose loose situation. At least with an auto more actual power will be put to the pavement. Im lookin at some good street slicks too eventually.

Hope this helps!

 

FWIW, unless you are going to bracket race don't stress about consistancy. There are plenty of guys out there turning awesome times with manual transmissions. The street twin is ~$1000 if you get one on sale, and a basic T56 rebuild with steel forks and good synchros is $950 from T56rebuilds.com for a transmission. You will spend atleast that (likely more) on a similar auto setup ($1400 Pro-Race CPT, +GOOD converter, + all of the conversion items).

You will need a new rear end if you plan to launch it hard repeatedly, regardless of the transmission in front of it. I know there are some 10 bolts that live into the 10s but I certainly wouldn't count on it.

You will need good tires no matter what, I like the M/T ET Drag Radials. I have the 275/40-17 and they will take a 3000rpm dump on the street and hook after about 3-4 revolutions of the tires, then a chirp on a hard shift to 2nd.

The auto puts less actual power to the pavement, it just hits the tires softer so you don't spin as easily. Spinning is the net effect of slippery tires, unprepped or slippery surface, and a less than ideal suspension. If you put in a good stall converter with a high STR, you will most certainly spin if you flash the converter so don't assume the car will turn into a bracket king on street tires.

I am heading up to Brainerd next Wednesday for the street drags with some of the other MNF-body guys, you should join us to see what you can get out of your car.