Help with 4L60E shifting problem
#1
Help with 4L60E shifting problem
I recently finished my A4 swap. 4L60E, Vigilante 3500 stall, B&M tranny cooler and PCMforless redid the computer for the "high stall" fix on OBD1 cars. I drove the car around for a couple of days and everything worked fine but I never floored it.
So then I installed a "modified" shift kit form Pro-Built Automatics. It was pretty much straight forward. The car still drives and shifts great.
So, my problem is...............
Anytime I go to WOT below 60mph the car will instantly go to 6800rpm and bounce off the rev limiter and not go anywhere or shift into the next gear, like its in neutral.
At 70mph if I go to WOT it will stay in 3rd gear and pull real hard but will no shift into 4th gear
Anytime the car gets to 5000rpm, in any gear it vibrates real bad.
There is alot more heat coming out of my center console than when I had the T56 and there is a new smell to the car, I think something is burning up.
So, my question is........
Do I have a PCM issue or tranny issue?
I made over 400hp at the wheels through the T56, but a stock 4L60E should atleast hold up for a while, especially with the shift kit and tranny cooler. I highly doubt I screwed anything up on the shift kit install but I'll take it all apart and go over everthing.
Any advise would be helpful, thanks
Waswa
So then I installed a "modified" shift kit form Pro-Built Automatics. It was pretty much straight forward. The car still drives and shifts great.
So, my problem is...............
Anytime I go to WOT below 60mph the car will instantly go to 6800rpm and bounce off the rev limiter and not go anywhere or shift into the next gear, like its in neutral.
At 70mph if I go to WOT it will stay in 3rd gear and pull real hard but will no shift into 4th gear
Anytime the car gets to 5000rpm, in any gear it vibrates real bad.
There is alot more heat coming out of my center console than when I had the T56 and there is a new smell to the car, I think something is burning up.
So, my question is........
Do I have a PCM issue or tranny issue?
I made over 400hp at the wheels through the T56, but a stock 4L60E should atleast hold up for a while, especially with the shift kit and tranny cooler. I highly doubt I screwed anything up on the shift kit install but I'll take it all apart and go over everthing.
Any advise would be helpful, thanks
Waswa
#4
I'm having a similar problem myself. I finished a trans go install two weeks ago......car drove great cirped 1st to 2nd a few times with Nittos and 2.73's. Then the other day I heard a noise(i think) my radio was kindof loud. But anyway my problem is almost the same. When i manually downshift lets say at 40mph into 2nd gear the rpms drop.....to around 1000(this is with foot off the gas)........they should sky-rocket to about 3grand. But the rpms drop......the car goes into neutral is seems and you have to give it gas until it reaches the rpm that matches the speed your going (don't know how a stall feels--but i imagine it feels the same. When i downshift a gear the rpms do not go up like they should......plus the 1-2 shift is really weak now......like it's back to stock or maybe worse...
Anyone have any ideas on either of our problems.....
Anyone have any ideas on either of our problems.....
#5
Well I can put a fork in it, its done. Took the pan off yesterday and the fluid was extremely dark, considering the very short time I had driven the car. Plus there lots of shinny particles in the fluid. And the magnet was completely covered.
I went ahead and removed the valve body and double checked the shift kit installation because even ASE certified automatic transmission technicians, like me, make mistakes too. I didn't find anything wrong and I followed the instructions that came in the shift kit exactly. I'm going to temporarily try a race built 4L60E out of a friends 11 second Z28 and the stock stall converter, then try the 3500 stall converter to see where things might have gone wrong. If it still does the same thing then I have a PCM problem, if not, then I have to rebuild the transmission.
I went ahead and removed the valve body and double checked the shift kit installation because even ASE certified automatic transmission technicians, like me, make mistakes too. I didn't find anything wrong and I followed the instructions that came in the shift kit exactly. I'm going to temporarily try a race built 4L60E out of a friends 11 second Z28 and the stock stall converter, then try the 3500 stall converter to see where things might have gone wrong. If it still does the same thing then I have a PCM problem, if not, then I have to rebuild the transmission.
#7
Update
Fixed the problem but it was too late. I had to replace the seperator plate because the 1-2 upshift checkball in the valve body was wedged in the seperator plate when I took it apart in the first place. My mistake was I didn't replace the seperator plate then. I had to use a hammer to get the checkball out of the plate so I guess it would not seat properly anymore. Now it pull alot harder and shiftes alot firmer but slips real bad above 5000rpm
Question for all you transmission experts out there. This checkball obviously had been stuck in the seperator plate for sometime now. What would this do in terms of wear? And would it have been noticable to the previous owner?
Question for all you transmission experts out there. This checkball obviously had been stuck in the seperator plate for sometime now. What would this do in terms of wear? And would it have been noticable to the previous owner?
Last edited by Grease; 06-04-2004 at 11:28 AM.
#8
sounds similar to the problems i'm having now...i just got a vig 3000 stall in and a trans go shift kit.....doesnt shift that hard at all...and when i floor the tranny slips more than actually shifts...doubt i'd be able to chirp the tires...and i used to be able to when it was stock. i have no idea what the problem is
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