Bxlt1

A.m everyone just about ready to start today putting all back together between work and family the camaro always gets the cold shoulder lol. Just a re cap the fork was hitting the p.p due to? But with chimera help and others I hope it goes back perfect. I did get a new flywheel as the old one was milled so much,could of been original not sure,but a side by side of new one you can see the difference just by eyeing it. I still think the pp is going to hit the fork when I put the pp on the input shaft and snap on the fork to the t.o.b and spin it it hits still? Chimera did say to shim the slave which I will and the clutch pedal if need be,also I've read where people cut the bolt in the fork until it no longer rubs since this is a problem for a lot of people. I'll keep posting as I go along hopefully by today I could drive it

Chimera96

not sure what thread you are referring to about what comments I made there. Every single disc clutch I have used was never a issue with fork buzzing PP. It was my McLeod Street Twin that did that so I cut the "T" stud down the thickness of a washer. The Twin clutch for some people you need to do this

I would just leave the "T" as is for a single disc clutch and install the new FW & clutch normally. It all should be fine

If for some reason fork is buzzing PP before clutch disengagement than you could do the "T" cut or back the slave out using some washers...although with a single disc clutch you should not have to

IDK if there is a "stop" bolt or something on your clutch pedal to adjust if you need to shorten peda stroke. Mine has one but it is a custom pedal set up

Bxlt1

What's up chimera we chated last in July I put new everything from f.w to p.p drove fine until the fork started grinding into p.p almost done with putting it back again.got f.w b.h p.p and disc on.monday I'm putting the trans n dshaft and everything back and hope it doesn't grind if so I'll try the shimming of slave and lastly trim the bolt.

Chimera96

are your clutch hydraulics original & stock?

Bxlt1

I replaced the entire unit years ago when I had a leak from the firewall installed it and worked perfect with old clutch and the miles I put on this new clutch

Bxlt1

Sorry yes stock hydrailics

Chimera96

weird. unless the FW for some reason is thicker than stock, buzzing the PP with fork on a single disc clutch should not happen

you TQ PP bolts to 22 ft lbs?

Bxlt1

A.m chimera. I know its weird something had to go wrong,don't know what. I helped my cousin earlier this year with his clutch and no problems at all.when we did this everything went back perfect. I wish I didn't throw away the old p.p to compare it. Now the f.w is new and using the clutch and p.p from before I'll see how it goes today.if anything I'll shim the slave or worse comes to worse a new p.p? Thanks for the help chimera

Bxlt1

Yes the p.p is 22 ft lbs f.w 74 ft lbs both Loctite

Bxlt1

A.m. For the last 2 days been trying to the the Tranny back. I get as far as the pilot and doesn't go,been trying and trying.evrything is lined up great the alignment tool goes in smooth but alittle tight towards the p.b. I do have a transmission jack and another on the tail of the transmission. Lol this is the third time twice on mine I did a t56 but this is the worst,besides keep trying any more tips or tricks on this,been close many times but didn't want to force it. I do have it in gear and the drive shaft attached to rotate the shaft as it goes in,but it hits a snag and won't go into the p.b

rngilliland

Try realigning the clutch. Plastic alignment tools don't always get it close enough the first time.

I use two six inch bolts with the heads cut off to help guide the trans. I screw them into the bottom two transmission holes in the bell housing. They hold the front of the trans in alignment while you install it. Slot the ends with a hacksaw to make them easy to remove once the trans is in.

Bxlt1

Good idea,also was thinking maybe do the p.p and clutch over. It does slide in good but towards the p.b it gets tight and have to pull on it and makes that pop sound like opening up a jar.so maybe the disc is not fully centered,although the times I was close it just didn't want to seat in the p.b

Chimera96

The disc is "slightly" out of alignment. Your input shaft tip is catching the edge of the pilot bearing. Don't try and pull the tranny in with bolts, you will FU the pilot bearing.

PIA but loosen the PP and when you put alignment tool in hold/push it in straight when you tighten the PP bolts enough to hold it. If you just let the PP/disc weight hang on the alignment tool it will be off.

Also the alignment of engine angle & transmission need to be the same. When you get to that last 1/2" confirm the space between bell housing & tranny top & bottom is the same. I use a floor jack under engine and tranny jack for trans and raise/lower floor jack under motor to get the two on the same angle. If there is a 1" gap on top and 1/2" gap on bottom....tranny will not go in.

And sometimes you just need to "wiggle" rear of tranny in all directions to get it to slide in that last 1/2"

I find it easier to get the fork on TO bearing with tranny out about 1/2" from bellhousing, then slide in tranny

Bxlt1

Thanks chimera. My cousins trans went in better than mine. Luck??? First time on mine was done right asked the local shop if I can do it we had a trans jack and a pole supporting the engine so it did line up and went together smooth,shortly after the fork was grinding p.p. I do have my 3 ton under the b.h with wood and I hope it's in a good angle,the trans jack also is lined and it goes in but snags towards p.b i will take p.p off and due what you suggested no big deal have plenty of time.the tool goes in smooth but when it goes into p.b it does get tight and need a little force to pull it out,but looking thru its all lined up. Thank you again been a big help

Chimera96

we all have had this happen. just apply "straight" in pressure on alignment tool vs letting the disc/clutch hang on it when tightening the PP bolts enough to actually hold it in place

I use my floor jack with a folded towel under pan to adjust engine angle to = tranny jack angle. There is very little pressure on the floor jack and motor to just raise/lower slightly as needed