i was about to install this SLP clutch but upon close inspection i found that it has a few cracks in the splines.... Will this clutch be "safe" to put in my car? PLease look at pics and let me know what you think.......

 

why risk it...

 

cause Im a broke *** college student..... unless you all want to pitch in and buy me a spec stage 2..... but seriously....

 

I know what you mean. For all the trouble it is I would want to put an new one in.

 

That disk is not OK to use. The SLP disk isn't much different from a stock disk. Get a disk from GM or autozone.

 

IF i were to go ahead and install it, what would happen if it did break while it was in???? just out of curiousity...

 

it would prolly work for a short amount of time, then just break totally. For the money and time spent, its not worth putting it in there.
IS the clutch disc used? Where did u get it from?

 

If you were unaware of the crack before the purchase I would send it back for a refund.

 

yeah i know..... its just that i cant see myself putting out $425+ for a spec stage 2...... But i guess I'm gonna call him and tell him whats up with the clutch...

 

Hey man, if you use that clutch it could kill you No kidding either!

It probably won’t kill you, but it could cut off your foot. Big Daddy Don Garletts is missing part of his right foot because it got cut off in a clutch explosion. I would say that a the very minimum, you will ruin your transmission. What happens is the clutch disc becomes a high RPM saw blade it fails and stays together, or fragments and becomes a grenade. This is why companies such as Lakewood, make blow proof bell housing. I have never seen clutch explode, nor do I even know anyone that has, but I do get a funny feeling when I am running the car hard. Just don’t use this clutch. The part that is cracked is what the transmission spline hooks too. If that part falls out, no telling where the disc will go.

Just some suggestions from my own experience: I replaced my clutch with a Zoom racing clutch about 20,000 miles ago and I haven’t had any problems. The Zoom clutch I bought wasn’t nothing special, but I figured it was better than a Duralast from the Auto Zone. It cost me about $200 for the clutch & pressure plate. Don’t forget to replace the pilot bushing with a nice Corvette style needle bearing unit and use the toilet paper trick to remove it. And get your flywheel turned at a machine shop. And just for piece of mind, replace the rear main seal and the trans input shaft seal while you got it all apart. The rear main seal is easy, use some drywall screws to pull it out, but the trans is harder, it will require the whole front of the trans to be taken apart. You should be able to get by for less than $300 bucks for the whole thing.

Good luck, Shimaze

 

Yep, that just about sums it up. If you want to see how a mild case of clutch "grenading" looks like, check the thread where the guy is asking if it's ok to epoxy his bellhousing. (clutch disk fragmented and went through the bellhousing)

 

wow... didnt know it was that bad.......!!! well where can i get more info about this Zoom clutch??? linky??? I only have a couple of bolt ons, so i dont need a radical clutch, in fact my car only dynos 310 to the wheels.... I was thinking about getting a Spec Stage 2, but dont really feel like paying $425+ for a clutch.....

 

toilet paper method???? explain more please...???!!!?!??!

 

well if you think about it that clutch is spinning at the same speed as your crank and if one of your bearings goes it will easily put a hole in your block so think what the clutch disk could do to a bellhousing.

 

Call SLP direct and ask them if you should use it. They might cut you some slack on buying a new disk from them.

I got a VERY good deal on my clutch from the manufacturer when I explained how f*cked my clutch was after 7000 miles.