I never knew it was a problem, until I picked up a Corvette. Now, the differences between the clutch pedals has me concerned. The Vette's clutch feels SO much better than the LT4 clutch in my Camaro.

The clutch in the Camaro releases up at the top of the pedal. It always has, ever since I installed it. The original clutch had gotten soaked in oil from the dreaded intake manifold oil leak. The new LT4 clutch works fine, and grabs really nice, it's just right at the top, instead of in the middle like the Corvette (which I prefer).

My question:
Can I place a shim between the slave and the clutch housing? I'm pretty sure that will cure it. Does anyone sell shims for this and what are the thicknesses?

Thanks!

 

Look here:
http://www.cz28.com/forums/showthrea...ighlight=pedal

 

It looks like that solution actually limits the travel of the pedal. That's not quite what I'm looking for. I dont mind the pedal travel, I would just like to have the point of engagement be down lower. I'm thinking that either trimming a little off the actuator rod that pushes the fork, or shimming the slave back a little will do it.

Anyone ever done anything like this?

 

i know this is old thread but i have the same problem, and thought of the same solution. i was just wondering if anyone has done this and if it worked for them.

 

I did do it. I made a 1/8" shim and stuck it between the slave and the housing.

I'm not sure it made any difference. I think the self adjusting feature of the master just compensated.

 

It just compensated for the shim. Now a shim on the LS1 TOB, will change the pedal engagement height.

 

My engagement is the same, i understand what you mean about wanting it set lower. I want to do the same thing to mine but not sure how. What I'm looking to do is almost like adding slack to a mechanical cable to lower the friction point, but keep the same pedal height.

 

sorry to bump an old thread, but I am having the same issues right now. I have never been happy with the high petal engagement. Its hard to drive. I would like to have more petal movement before it engages.. right now its like 1/2inch between not grabbing and fully engaged. I shimmed the slave several times and its amazing for a week or so, but it always adjust itself. The link about petal travel is not working but I am willing to do anything. Thank You

 

I never did get mine to adjust down, even with a shim. I've owned a couple M6 LT1 cars and they've always been like this. Mine doesn't feel like there is anything wrong with it, I'd just prefer the engagement point to be lower on the pedal.

 

Shortening the rod from the petal to the master would change the grab point but wouldn't do anything to extend the travel from slipping to grabbing, hmm. I sure wish the shimming would just stay the way It feels in the beginning before it adjusts - the clutch never felt better. Maybe a adjustable master is the best option.. who makes them? thanks

 

I am contemplating introducing a little air bubble into the system, I have read a bunch of post of people complaining about the engagement point being to low and close to the floor - the answer given is bleed the clutch.. Makes sense. hmm, now you know im desperate. lol

edit.. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/manual...r-writeup.html

hmm looks interesting.

 

I have read so many people that hate the high pedal engagement on these cars..I guess I'm just spoiled considering I learned to drive a manual on my SS. The engagement point is insanely high though, barely touch the pedal and the RPM's plummet. Would having the engagement point lower show any kind of improvement, like making starts a little easier, or is it purely preference? Personally I like being able to just tap the clutch when I shift but..

 

I am a big guy and fairly tall. 6ft4in. so lifting the leg that high is no fun in that small car, not so much lifting so high but more having to feather the clutch while the petal is so high at the very last 1/2 inch of its travel and not clonk it out. Any time I take it to a shop for an oil change it takes the mechanic 4-5 times to get it in the shop. Maybe its the clutch I am running? but I would rather have 2-3 inches of "grab time" rather than a half inch difference between fully disengaged and fully engaged. So long story short I am just looking for easier starts, I know it goes against all performance aspects of the clutch. My ultimate goal would be having the clutch only a few inches off the floor and those few inches be grab time. I think that a shorter rod connecting the petal and the master would do just that.

Im sure I could eventual get use to it but its not a daily driver, I drive it once a week if that, and when I do, I feel like a rookie just learning manual trans.

 

I would think that shimming the slave would be the same as shortening the rod and it will just self adjust? At some point the self adjustment will reach its limit though. What happens then?

I'd love to try a shorter rod on the slave. Does anyone have a spare rod laying around they can test the theory with? If someone could send one to me I'd test it and post the results with pictures.

 

I don't think it would have the same effect as shimming the slave. The adjustment is made based on the slack in the rod of the slave not the master. I look at it like its really just moving the whole assembly closer to the floor. I might try shimming the master at the point it meets the firewall to move the whole master (and rod) away from the petal pulling it all closer to the floor.