Clutch decision
#1
Clutch decision
Hello everybody im here to get some help with my next purchase. My current clutch is slipping and needs replacing. I did read the "We really need an LT1 sticky on clutch/flywheel options" thread. Lots of good info to read, almost to much. Any way I need a new clutch. Its for a summer car, maybe 10K kilometers a year.
I enjoy doing burn outs and a few donuts here and there.
Most driving is pretty tame.
More traffic driving than open roads.
Hopefully around 400$ and the hydraulic slave separate.
I will be re-surfacing my fly-wheel.
Doing the work myself
I could just buy anyone of ebay but up to now all advice and references from this site have been perfect. Thanks.
I enjoy doing burn outs and a few donuts here and there.
Most driving is pretty tame.
More traffic driving than open roads.
Hopefully around 400$ and the hydraulic slave separate.
I will be re-surfacing my fly-wheel.
Doing the work myself
I could just buy anyone of ebay but up to now all advice and references from this site have been perfect. Thanks.
Last edited by FredM; 03-31-2016 at 11:37 AM.
#2
Re: Clutch decision
Any opinions on this clutch. Thanks
Spec Stage 1 Chevy Camaro 5 7L LT1 Lt 1 93 97 TransAm V8 Clutch Kit One SC421 | eBay
http://www.canadapartsonline.com/sea...shipping2|GT+0
Im going through the site sponsors now.
Spec Stage 1 Chevy Camaro 5 7L LT1 Lt 1 93 97 TransAm V8 Clutch Kit One SC421 | eBay
http://www.canadapartsonline.com/sea...shipping2|GT+0
Im going through the site sponsors now.
Last edited by FredM; 03-31-2016 at 11:37 AM.
#3
Re: Clutch decision
Not sure what the chain auto part stores carry in Canada but most down here the store brands are LUK. That is a "OK" stock replacement clutch. The SACHS also.
The SPEC reportedly "modify" the PP for more clamping force...YMMV on that but supposedly they do. Otherwise their disc is the same organic material as the others
The Centerforce one you list has a dual friction disc. Ceramic puc on one side and full face organic on the other. They also do the sliding weight thing supposedly increasing clamp force as RPM's increase.
Of the ones you list, the Center force DF one would likely hold the most power. You may experience some chatter on engagement because of the ceramic puc surface. This should diminish if not completely go away after break-in
The SPEC reportedly "modify" the PP for more clamping force...YMMV on that but supposedly they do. Otherwise their disc is the same organic material as the others
The Centerforce one you list has a dual friction disc. Ceramic puc on one side and full face organic on the other. They also do the sliding weight thing supposedly increasing clamp force as RPM's increase.
Of the ones you list, the Center force DF one would likely hold the most power. You may experience some chatter on engagement because of the ceramic puc surface. This should diminish if not completely go away after break-in
#5
Re: Clutch decision
one combo many did for a clutch with a little more holding power is buy the cheapest clutch kit from wherever (all LT1 PP are the same now, china clones of the LT4) and they buy the McLeod DF disc.
This was back when you could buy a basic clutch kit from auto part store for $199 and the Mcleod disc from summit for $175. It was a DF disc
There was that one kit in your link that was cheap. You could use that PP/TO bearing and buy the McLeod disc and likely be some $ ahead of the Centerforce $. They do the sliding weight thing which I have never been onboard with but maybe it is of some benefit.
whatever clutch you get, replace the pilot bearing. Most kits come with a bushing which you could use...although Tremac recommends bearing, which is what GM used
hold off on the burnouts & donuts until 500 mi of break-in which is just "normal" driving. avoid slipping the clutch during break-in let alone high RPM clutch dumps. After that, have fun
This was back when you could buy a basic clutch kit from auto part store for $199 and the Mcleod disc from summit for $175. It was a DF disc
There was that one kit in your link that was cheap. You could use that PP/TO bearing and buy the McLeod disc and likely be some $ ahead of the Centerforce $. They do the sliding weight thing which I have never been onboard with but maybe it is of some benefit.
whatever clutch you get, replace the pilot bearing. Most kits come with a bushing which you could use...although Tremac recommends bearing, which is what GM used
hold off on the burnouts & donuts until 500 mi of break-in which is just "normal" driving. avoid slipping the clutch during break-in let alone high RPM clutch dumps. After that, have fun
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