wrd1972

Just got this custom disk back from my clutch maker.
Its a dual friction with 100% Kevlar and composite asbestos. We are expecting this thing to grab big time with very stock like engagements. The disk chassis is the OEM lt1 disk chassis which holds up well.
It has the real Tribco Kevlar and not the composite BS like in the Spec and other performance disks.
http://www.tribco.com/about.htm
It is almost too pretty to install, however it will be installed in a week or two.
http://www.MyOnlineImages.com/Member.../DSCF00162.jpg
http://www.MyOnlineImages.com/Member.../DSCF00171.jpg

JKDZ28

Who makes that clutch?

Is that a homemade jobby?

TheNovaMan

Who is your clutch maker?

Which material faces what?

wrd1972

The kevlar faces the the flywheel which is the surface that requires the most friction. The asbestos supplies good grip without wearing down and both dont get very affected by heat.
He is a local clutch and joint maker thats been around forever and does nothing but clutches. He does clutches for big trucks, performance cars and ricers. He has seen every performance clutch under the sun and can pick them all apart when it comes to the materials been used especially SPEC. He has all the tools to resurface pressure plates and flywheels, test PP pressure, replace springs etc.
He can build any custom clutch under the sun.
Very professional and nice shop to deal with.

speed_demon24

Sorry to be the one to tell you this, but the stock clutck disk is weak as hell. My friend broke his on with his SLP clutch and the stock material, it actually wrapped around. And mine started slipping because it bet where the little openings are under the friction material, it bent under each one a little creating high and low spots letting only 1/2 of the clutch surface area make contact. I guess I'm lucky I didn't just snap it like my friend, atleast i could drive it a little bit instead of having to get towed...

JKDZ28

I'm curious on how well this will hold up under extreame abuse and power.

Keep us updated

Bow94z

Yea let us know how it works out for you?
Now what Flywheel/Pressure plate are you going to use with it?

wrd1972

I have a low mile LT1 PP and a used SLP.
I will be putting in the SLP with a vette TOB.
Stock resurfaced flywheel.
The LT1 disk chassis may not be the best but I trust it more than SPEC.

blackztpi

As of sometime in the past 10 years, you can only use 25% asbestos in a clutch disk or brake pad. thats legal issues if any more because of the effect the dust residue has on people and cancer and such. Asbestos is ONLY used as a bonding agent to hold the friction material together, not as a friction material itself... the only reason it is legal to use 25% asbestos is because the materials would about fall apart without it. it's fibers are very strong and rigid. Kevlar is prone to heat damage, but only under extreme heat will it fail. it is a good, but sometimes inconsistant material. Ceramics are the best way to go for escaping heat and keeping durability. they also are hard enough to not have to use much, if any asbestos as a bonding agent. However, if you ride the clutch hard with a ceramic based friction, you'll eat flywheels much faster than kevlar. Same with brake pads. ceramic pads will eat stock stlye rotors soo fast. the only vehicles recomended for ceramic pads are the ones that have the appropriate rotors. Porsche is pretty good with that.

wrd1972

Got the disk in.
It engages smooth as silk and grabs well so far with no chatter period.
I power shifted one time and it grabbed the nastiest second gear I have experienced for an non stage 3ish lt1 pull clutch.

I still need to break it for 500 miles but all indications point that this thing is gonna kick ***.

Going price is $120 when delivering a used disk or $145 on an in stock rebuilt disk.

Birdman7389

hmm, do you have the contact info?

StudyTime

I'm in the need of a clutch for my LS1 car.

Please provide me with that contact information as well.

Ben T.

Fast Caddie

I don't trust the factory LT1 clutch cage no further than i can throw it (already did that!). I've personally busted the center out of the disk ( makes a nice pretty round thing and a ring with sharp edges)... and have seen a couple of others around here do the same (none of the cars had over 400hp). My car has maybe 280rwhp as it sits, about 13k miles on the clutch, no track time, no hard launches, no powershifting... just some get-downs maybe once or twice a month at most. Just by inspection, it looks like the stock springs aren't stiff enough, and let the stop bars bash into the plate material under hard shifts until the whole thing just spins itself into two pieces. (Venting here) The crappy part about it is, the disk decided to just let go while i was just cruising down the interstate, with the cruise control on about to go up a hill, so when the disk let go my engine starting bouncing off the rev limiter (scared me silly)... i was stranded over 130 MILES away from home ($280 towing bill!!!). Never again will a factory disk be put in this car.

I'm going with a Mcleod disk whenever i get that T56 rebuilt and put back in the car. The center section looks a lot more beefy than the factory disks.

That's a good looking clutch you got there, not bashing the work, just be weary of how weak the cage is. (or can be, some people will defend them in front of satan himself)

cehan

The only other weak spot to consider is the stock flywheel, which is cast iron. Most high performance clutch assemblies use billet steel flywheels, which is why they cost about 3X as much as the stock ones. I went with the billet flywheel, because 3X more cost is cheaper than losing your feet when that stock flywheel blows thru the bellhousing and trans tunnel.

Chris

wrd1972

I will consider that down the road.
Thanks