Can you damage your a4 transmission and/or engine by manually upshifting?
Can you damage your a4 transmission and/or engine by manually upshifting?
I ran a search to find out if it would ever be harmful to my transmission or my engine if I upshifted through 1st to D from a dead stop, but I didn't find the answers I needed. If i recall the transmissions on the 93s aren't electronically controlled like the 94 and on, not sure if that makes a difference or not? I actually didn't even bother trying to do this until a day or two ago, and today raised doubts. Is it possible to redline/over rev and damage your engine/tranny, or does the fuel cut off at whatever rpm keep this from happening? I was manually shifting up from first because i expected us to be going from a roll and it takes off quicker than requiring a downshift, and i shifted a little bit late from 1st to 2nd and the car redlined before it went into 2nd. I read that a lot of peoples cars did this, and from a dead stop i believe it to be a little bit pointless to even bother manually shifting but I could understand from a roll. I have long since learned my lesson with manually shifting automatics as I completely destroyed a transmission in my old k5 blazer because I was always upshifting/downshifting. I've probably only done this "upshifting" 10x or less in the Camaro, and experienced the redline/overrev situation once. Is this enough to cause damage?
You should be fine as long as you are going to the next higher gear. Just don't try to downshift with an auto, that don't work well. Now, if you hit the gas hard enough to engauge the passing gear, you should be able to pull the shifter back and hold the passing gear longer.
You shouldn't be able to get the engine to it's rev limiter on a stock A4. The tach may be in the redline area, but the engine shouldn't cut out. It won't overrev.
Manual shifting may or may not help acceleration times. When racing from a rolling start (below the 1-2 shift point), your idea of starting in "1" is a good one to eliminate the downshift time. After you have the pedal to the metal in 1st, shift into D or 2 or 3 and let the trans shift for itself. Note the rpm where shifts occur.
If you have modified your engine, it might want slightly higher shift points that the trans is programmed for, but you'll have to time the runs to find out. There is a lag from the time you move the lever until the shift occurs as you noticed.
Some 4L60E transmissions will immediately shfit into 2nd when you select "2". I don't think non-e's will do that however. That's about the only way you can short shift with your foot to the floor.
Manualy down shifting can't overrev the engine: the trans won't let you. You probably won't hurt it, but why bother? If you are on a long down grade, manually shifting down a gear (or two) might be useful for engine braking. It's not harmful, although it wastes a llittle gas. Some transmissions (Saturn, for example) will automatically downshift one or two gears if you are coasting downhill, the car isn't slowing and you apply brakes. Smart transmission, or maybe smart engineers.
It may be my imagination, but I think you can effect the speed of a downshift by how fast you floor the pedal, at least on an "e" trans. If you really smack it hard with your foot, it appears to do a 4-2 downshift quicker. Never really timed it though. When those pesky 5.0 L Mustangs want to do a 50 punch with my LT1 Impala, it usually gives me the edge.
Manual shifting may or may not help acceleration times. When racing from a rolling start (below the 1-2 shift point), your idea of starting in "1" is a good one to eliminate the downshift time. After you have the pedal to the metal in 1st, shift into D or 2 or 3 and let the trans shift for itself. Note the rpm where shifts occur.
If you have modified your engine, it might want slightly higher shift points that the trans is programmed for, but you'll have to time the runs to find out. There is a lag from the time you move the lever until the shift occurs as you noticed.
Some 4L60E transmissions will immediately shfit into 2nd when you select "2". I don't think non-e's will do that however. That's about the only way you can short shift with your foot to the floor.
Manualy down shifting can't overrev the engine: the trans won't let you. You probably won't hurt it, but why bother? If you are on a long down grade, manually shifting down a gear (or two) might be useful for engine braking. It's not harmful, although it wastes a llittle gas. Some transmissions (Saturn, for example) will automatically downshift one or two gears if you are coasting downhill, the car isn't slowing and you apply brakes. Smart transmission, or maybe smart engineers.
It may be my imagination, but I think you can effect the speed of a downshift by how fast you floor the pedal, at least on an "e" trans. If you really smack it hard with your foot, it appears to do a 4-2 downshift quicker. Never really timed it though. When those pesky 5.0 L Mustangs want to do a 50 punch with my LT1 Impala, it usually gives me the edge.
What I always hate about 4-speed autos is that depending on how you engage the kickdown when in 4th (overdrive) it always seems to take a while to shift into 3rd, or it stays in 3rd longer than you want to.
If I just downshift right into 2nd from OD while going like say less 100km/h (60m/h) or about 1500rpm, is that bad?
If I just downshift right into 2nd from OD while going like say less 100km/h (60m/h) or about 1500rpm, is that bad?
Originally posted by OldSStroker
Manualy down shifting can't overrev the engine: the trans won't let you. You probably won't hurt it, but why bother? If you are on a long down grade, manually shifting down a gear (or two) might be useful for engine braking. It's not harmful, although it wastes a llittle gas. Some transmissions (Saturn, for example) will automatically downshift one or two gears if you are coasting downhill, the car isn't slowing and you apply brakes. Smart transmission, or maybe smart engineers.
Manualy down shifting can't overrev the engine: the trans won't let you. You probably won't hurt it, but why bother? If you are on a long down grade, manually shifting down a gear (or two) might be useful for engine braking. It's not harmful, although it wastes a llittle gas. Some transmissions (Saturn, for example) will automatically downshift one or two gears if you are coasting downhill, the car isn't slowing and you apply brakes. Smart transmission, or maybe smart engineers.
Back to the topic, I don't think up shifting will harm the engine or tranny one bit but why do it? just put the car in drive and floor it. The only place it might make difference is at the track.
i know in my camaro if i leave it in first then stab the pedal it will automaticly go into 2nd and its programmed shift point but will not when going on the 2-3 shift. in my car i can hold in 2nd until i bounce of the rev limiter (only if i wanted to lol) but i down shift and upshift all the time and ive had the car for 2 years and no troubles (yet).
I'm glad this got brought up, because I have been wondering about it for some time. My car sucks at shifting...when I am going 65mph+ and I punch it, it goes into 3rd. I have 3.23 gears and 2nd goes up into the 80's. It is absolutely pointless!!
So, if I am reading correctly...the opinions are almost split on downshifting? I agree, from a start D is just fine, but it is when you're going and you get that lag in response. Say I'm going 30mph and I'm in D...if I punch it there it's only a 50/50 chance it goes into 1st. It would be a lot easier to downshift and then accelerate. Plus, it feels as if, since the rpms are already up there and don't have to restart, your power is more responsive.
It's not like I want to have to constantly shift the car, but for me, it feels more consistent on downshifting if I do it manually. But, if it's going to cause problems......I'll just deal with it!
John
So, if I am reading correctly...the opinions are almost split on downshifting? I agree, from a start D is just fine, but it is when you're going and you get that lag in response. Say I'm going 30mph and I'm in D...if I punch it there it's only a 50/50 chance it goes into 1st. It would be a lot easier to downshift and then accelerate. Plus, it feels as if, since the rpms are already up there and don't have to restart, your power is more responsive.
It's not like I want to have to constantly shift the car, but for me, it feels more consistent on downshifting if I do it manually. But, if it's going to cause problems......I'll just deal with it!
John
I do know its possible to hit the rev limiter with an automatic car. Me and my friend were leaving Taco Bell..and i put it in D instead of OD, on accident..i stopped at the stop light...and slid the shifter back one, thinking that i was goin into D, because i thought i was currently in OD...but..i was really shifting the car into "2"..so the light turned green..i nail it..it winds out 1st..shifts into second..than as soon as i was expecting it to shift into 3rd i hear "ta ta ta ta" i backed off the gas and was like holy ****...the RPM's didnt drop either..so i looked down and sure enough the damn lever was in 2 instead of D...i read in the manual that it says not to go over 55 in 2nd...and with my car, with 2.73's..i was prolly doin about 97-100 or so at the rev limiter..in 2nd...so you guys think i messed anything up???
Originally posted by pennys58
I'm glad this got brought up, because I have been wondering about it for some time. My car sucks at shifting...when I am going 65mph+ and I punch it, it goes into 3rd. I have 3.23 gears and 2nd goes up into the 80's. It is absolutely pointless!!
So, if I am reading correctly...the opinions are almost split on downshifting? I agree, from a start D is just fine, but it is when you're going and you get that lag in response. Say I'm going 30mph and I'm in D...if I punch it there it's only a 50/50 chance it goes into 1st. It would be a lot easier to downshift and then accelerate. Plus, it feels as if, since the rpms are already up there and don't have to restart, your power is more responsive.
It's not like I want to have to constantly shift the car, but for me, it feels more consistent on downshifting if I do it manually. But, if it's going to cause problems......I'll just deal with it!
John
I'm glad this got brought up, because I have been wondering about it for some time. My car sucks at shifting...when I am going 65mph+ and I punch it, it goes into 3rd. I have 3.23 gears and 2nd goes up into the 80's. It is absolutely pointless!!
So, if I am reading correctly...the opinions are almost split on downshifting? I agree, from a start D is just fine, but it is when you're going and you get that lag in response. Say I'm going 30mph and I'm in D...if I punch it there it's only a 50/50 chance it goes into 1st. It would be a lot easier to downshift and then accelerate. Plus, it feels as if, since the rpms are already up there and don't have to restart, your power is more responsive.
It's not like I want to have to constantly shift the car, but for me, it feels more consistent on downshifting if I do it manually. But, if it's going to cause problems......I'll just deal with it!
John
If it's an "E", I don't know what to advise other than check for full accelerator pedal travel. Stuff can get under the pedal and prevent complete full throttle.
My $.02
Is it an "E" trans or a manual controlled 4L60 with a TV cable? Maybe your TV cable needs adjustment. It's not difficult to do.
If it's an "E", I don't know what to advise other than check for full accelerator pedal travel. Stuff can get under the pedal and prevent complete full throttle.
My $.02
If it's an "E", I don't know what to advise other than check for full accelerator pedal travel. Stuff can get under the pedal and prevent complete full throttle.
My $.02
i'll try to answer some questions but there seems to be a lot here...
first, the tranny in mine (700r4) will shift into 2nd even if you'r ein first. i think this is just a safety measure so you don't overrev in first which is nice
2) noslowcamaro...i don't think you messed anything up but i wouldnt advise throwing it in 2 and going to 100 again
. i think i remember somebody doing 80 or roundabouts and they threw it in gear (didnt start from 2) 2 and they didnt have any damage so i think you're fine
3) the 'e' part in 4l60-e does mean it electronically controls it (duh) so yes you will notice nice, smooth part throttle shifts but when you want to it will get up and go and do some hard and firm wot shifts (or downshifts are faster too)
4) joe bellman's right, don't downshift and engine brake. this is not good for an auto and it will always be cheaper to buy rotors and pads instead of doing a rebuild.
5)eealto, no problem i don't think. *my opinion* is that you don't even need to manually shift except when from a roll (like you said) so you don't have that downshift time but really i would advise leaving it in d for most situations
last but not least, it said in my 92 manual that you shouldnt leave it in 2 for over 5 miles (although i think i've done it when i had to drive thru the snow up here in cinci) but i don't think anyone is really going to need it in 2 the whole time anyways
but then again, ive heard of guys leaving it in 2 around town all the time so i guess it's a hit-or-miss type of thing
if i screwed up somehwere, correct me, i don't want to be spreading wrong info accidentally
first, the tranny in mine (700r4) will shift into 2nd even if you'r ein first. i think this is just a safety measure so you don't overrev in first which is nice
2) noslowcamaro...i don't think you messed anything up but i wouldnt advise throwing it in 2 and going to 100 again
. i think i remember somebody doing 80 or roundabouts and they threw it in gear (didnt start from 2) 2 and they didnt have any damage so i think you're fine3) the 'e' part in 4l60-e does mean it electronically controls it (duh) so yes you will notice nice, smooth part throttle shifts but when you want to it will get up and go and do some hard and firm wot shifts (or downshifts are faster too)
4) joe bellman's right, don't downshift and engine brake. this is not good for an auto and it will always be cheaper to buy rotors and pads instead of doing a rebuild.
5)eealto, no problem i don't think. *my opinion* is that you don't even need to manually shift except when from a roll (like you said) so you don't have that downshift time but really i would advise leaving it in d for most situations
last but not least, it said in my 92 manual that you shouldnt leave it in 2 for over 5 miles (although i think i've done it when i had to drive thru the snow up here in cinci) but i don't think anyone is really going to need it in 2 the whole time anyways
but then again, ive heard of guys leaving it in 2 around town all the time so i guess it's a hit-or-miss type of thing
if i screwed up somehwere, correct me, i don't want to be spreading wrong info accidentally
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
F'n1996Z28SS
Cars For Sale
8
Aug 23, 2023 11:19 PM
chevroletfreak
LT1 Based Engine Tech
202
Jul 4, 2005 05:00 PM
guionM
Automotive News / Industry / Future Vehicle Discussion
10
Sep 8, 2002 11:08 PM



