ok, I noticed that a couple people have thrown gears in their stock 10b's. Gear sets alone are not that expensive. I haven't gone to the track yet, but I am planning to start. I need stickier tires to keep me straight when I power shift. -Also doing that too much on a 10b =

How would I go about building a 10b on a budget to handle 500 ~ish hp. I don't think I will be breaking the 500hp/550tq barrier any time soon. I am getting a nitrous kit soon, that's how I came to those #'s. (My approximate fwhp/tq thus far is 386/397 + 150 shot of nitrous (max) = 536/547) -Might be slightly more since 160 stat install.

I was looking at a Strange 12b w/ 3.73's. From what I've read they are a direct bolt in replacement for about $2200.


Gears= $230
Axles= $250
TA Girdle= $150
Fluid= $20
______________

$550

??? Help me out here. Would this be worth doing even if I stay in the hp/tq #'s above?

 

The girdle itself adds some strength of course, and i know of guys running that girdle, aftermarket gears, unsure about the axles, but they are running 600 + to the ground. Its really a crapshoot talking about 10 bolts as i broke mine when i romped the gas hard in 1st gear...but then again i had a complete stcker, at 5600 ft altitude (350 whp UNCORRECTED) and street tires...now ive got the moser 9 inch with 31 spline axles, 4.11 gear and detroit true trac, and i LOVE it..its really a good feeling knowing you can f* around in the car and not break anything...id go big or go home...do it one the right way and be done with it. A moser rear wont mind your extreme shifting habits

 

9" or 12bolt? which one is stronger?

 

Bayer, you're playing with fire even with your car being stock. Put sticky tires on, run nitrous, you're only pouring fuel on the fire .

There is a thread around here (fairly recent) about a "Bullet Proof 10-bolt" ... you can read it and see what the concensus is. I think you might have to get used to working on the 10-bolt a lot if you want to be hard on your car with a lot of power. Breaking it will become inevitable. I didn't think it was that bad 'til I broke my 4.10's, and realized just how easy it can happen .

IMO, the 10-bolt isn't worth "investing" much money into. Fix as required, but ultimately, get a 12-bolt or 9" when you've had enough rebuilding the 10-bolt .

 

9" is stronger than a 12-bolt, but you'll never see the difference at that horsepower level. If you ever want to go 800+ to the wheels, get the 9". Otherwise, the 12-bolt is lighter and plenty strong.

FWIW, a 150 shot of nitrous doesn't add 150 to your peak. It adds the most power at a lower point in the rev range, and tapers as the revs go up. So even with a 150 shot, you'd never see 536/547 to the wheels. Probably not even 500/500.

It'd still be enough to tear a 10-bolt apart.

 

id get the strange rear, if u cant do the rear rebuild urself, add a couple hundred onto that. I just started getting gear whine in my rear, so i'm saving up for a strange 12 bolt. I believe u can find them for 1800 at some places

 

1800 would either be used, or without some of the options you'd want on a street car (posi and 4-channel ABS, for instance).

 

Yeah... I've been beating on it w/ street tires. I've broken em loose PLENTY of times, no whine so far. I've power shifted plenty latley, but I don't want to do it too much b/c I'm scared of breaking a BIG expensive part..

I remember the "Bullet-proof 10b thread. That was set UP! He did a great job on it. But another thing, the money he sank into that rear and the efort, he could have gotten a 12b Strange.


I think I'm just gonna throw a TA Girdle on there for now and save for the Starangest of Strange rears... ........... and keep the heavy/hard shifting to a minimum. -Changing the oil this weekend too. I've been putting it off for too long.

 

My 10-bolt lasted through hundreds of dragstrip launches, autocrosses, and a few track days, plus 138,000 miles of daily driving. The thing only failed after a summer's worth of 400RWHP dragstrip action, and even then it was just a simple crush washer that shattered due to severe wheelhop.

Get the stud girdle....save for the 12-bolt (or the S60 :thumbup: ) Call it good!

Just remember this: I consulted with Richmond gear engineers in 1999 and their official opinion was that when properly set up, the 10-bolt design was good to 400 RWHP, and after that, all bets were off.

 

those prices you stated don't include labor, unless you are doing it yourself you can look to add about another 300. I won't run sticky tires on my car. i am in the process of buying my rear. don't waste your money on a 10 bolt. your just asking for trouble.

 

Of Strange and Moser I definately think Strange has a much better deal for the money. It also seems to be a much more complete, and straight forward bolt in. If you are gonna run a power adder, and slicks I think an aftermarket rear is the way to go. I also saw that same new Strange for $1800, but can't remember where, It was new with posi, but I think is had no ABS (which is fine for me).

Figure out your target HP, or ET, and then you can figure out if a 12 bolt, or 9" is better for you. If you can't set a limit on power then the 9" is your only anwser that wont make you have to upgrade again in the future. If you can set a limit you can achieve it faster for less money by focusing on only the optimal parts you will need and not the ones that you don't.

I am upgrading my 10 Bolt personally, but I am not gonna run nitrous until my motor gives up the ghost, and I am building a new one. Untill then cam only, some ET Streets, lightened car and a 3200 stall should get me where I wan't to be and I should be able to do it on a modified 10 bolt. Its a toss up with the 10 bolt I am gonna make a $500 bet that I can save $ 1500 by not buying a 12 bolt or 9". If I lose then I will join the nay sayers.

Live and learn

 

Great reply! I am still on the fence on whether I want to try this myself or not.

 

With the M6 and shock from the launch you'll probably need an aftermarket rear-end. Whereas, the 10-bolt could possibly survive with an auto.

If you keep the 10-bolt, don't forget the ARP stud kit for the caps which will also help along with the other mods you've mentioned.

WD

 

I would not spend any money on a 10 bolt if I didn't have to not even for the cover

I run a 9" with a spool and 35spline......you feel alot better knowing it wont break

 

Don't waste your hard earned money on a junk rear, you can put $600 into a 10 bolt and you will have a $600 piece of junk rear! I was thinking of doing what you are thinking , but then I came to my senses and saved up and bought a strange 12 bolt with 3:73 's. The strange bolts in just like the stock rear with no modifications. It's your money but in the end I think you would better served to upgrade just one time and spend that $550 - $600 on something worth while. MY .02 cents.