A.m happy fourth everyone be safe and enjoy.well i figure dropping 3 t56 in less than a year I would be good at it. I wrote before how I couldnt get my car in gear after my clutch change etc.....pulled the trans out Saturday and right away when the trans separated from b.h metal shavings came out trans is fine the pressure plate was rubbing the inside of b.h and the t.o.b is warped it rotates like an egg rolling.problem is I have 2 bolts I can't get off b.h any tricks I p.b blasted all and used my socket and long extension to bang them no avail.my concern is rounding them off.

 

assuming you are using the correct size 5 sided socket, use a ratchet extension of some form (pipe) for more leverage....but you say you tried that already. BH bolts should not be that tight unless someone used a impact gun putting them on. I find it easier for the top BH bolts to have the engine lowered in the back some. Your tranny out already that should not be a problem

so your PP was contacting the BH....what FW are you running?

while the TO bearings are China POS....they do "wobble" if you just spin it in your hand. Looks weird but they do. Kind of an oblong rotation. The TO bearing itself "floats" around the input shaft

post up some pics of where the PP was contacting the BH...weird

 

Thanks chimera 96. As of now its not the b.h hitting the p.p it was the clutch fork,never seen that before. They entire clutch i have was a kit off ebay and included everything. I had to reuse the old flywheel as the new one didn't go on right.it was resurfaced and good. I still have that one bolt on but hopefully today get it off im borrowing some tools from work to help.

 

well if you hit it with a torch first that will help. BH bolts should not be that tight though but shiat happens

heat & a breaker bar

 

That is next on my list mapp gas and go from there.right now I bought a drill gun from work and went to home depot and got a 3/8 adapter for it.gonna see if it comes out by then.sheeet does happen I personally put all bolts from f.w p.p and b.h all tq to specs for lt1. Weird but I hope I'll get this. Thanks again will keep posted

 

What's up everyone. Ok as of now I tried a drill gun didnt budge just tried torching it and nothing. I feel my last resort is to just freaking rip the bh off and some how it doesn't get damaged so I can have the bolt head snap and maybe get the rest off

 

A.m everyone. I got the damn bell housing off bought a 1/2 impact from harbor and all came out.i can't put pictures up to show what happened either phone or computer? Something went wrong as I stated before the clutch fork was grinding into the pressure plate has a carved circle in it from the fork,the fork is ok and the plate and rest of the components my concern is should I get a new plate? I read others forums where this happend to others no matter the make of the clutch company.my clutch kit in question is a fx clutch stage 2 from eBay. I know not the best but at the time didnt want to spend a lot,I have more important things to do with money. As I always wrote before all of this was put in aligned and torqued by me with Loctite on bolts to be sure no backing out of bolts.it went smooth for the first 32 miles lol. My question is should I get a new plate? Clean and reassemble it some how better? I will see today if I can have someone upload the pics for me. Thanks again everyone for your help

 

if the fork is contacting the PP on the outer edge than the fork is being pushed in to far, flywheel is thicker than stock or the "T" stud the fork is held on with is lose or the fork itself is bent.

If the contact at PP is just a scrape it is OK. You just need to determine why the fork is going in that far. When you push in the clutch do you have full disengagement before pedal reaches the floor?

On McLeod Twin Disc clutch you sometimes need to cut off a washer thickness from the T stud to prevent this from happening but not on any single disc clutch

 

Thank you chimera. The flywheel is stock was resurfaced and good,I wish I kept the old p.p to compare but didnt.the clutch fork is straight as an arrow and the t stud is good and the bolt wasnt loose when I pulled the trans. It was a pain pulling it back off of the t.o bearing but that's good? Since this a.m I been on numerous post as to people who had this same problem with pictures of exactly what happens to mine. The fork has a tad bit of scrape from p.p.,but if you see the circle it made on p.p it looks bad.most people either shimmed the slave till it didn't hit any more or they grind off the fork for more clearance to make up the thicker plate. This is what I think what happend and looking towards either shimming the slave or grinding the fork.what would you do? Thanks again

 

if you don't have a "stop bolt" on your clutch pedal you can adjust so the stroke is less to reduce the slave extension I would try the spacer (make one or use washers) on the slave since that is simple and try that. Cutting down the "T" takes a good cut off wheel. I tried with a hack saw and didn't even scratch it. Had mine cut down at a machine shop (and guy said it was some seriously hard metal). I have the Street Twin though. You should not need that on a single disc clutch.

weird the fork buzzes the PP. From all the PP I have seen since the OEM "Valeo" ones stopped being made are all the same offshore one. Every clutch brand I have tried, including my current McLeod Street Twin, all have the same no name PP

In getting the fork on or off the TO bearing I find it easier to do that with the tranny about 1/4"-1/2" away from bell housing

 

Hey chimera. I think that's what ill do shim the slave and also the bolt in the pedal assembly.the new clutch did engage lower than the one it replaced. It was on there since I bought this car ten years ago at 109 xxx now 167xx . It's gonna be a bitch here in ny all this week high 90s so I might not do much but clean and soak the bolts get tranny fluid loc tite etc..... Also I've put the p.p on the input shaft of the tranny smooth part and connected the fork now I know it's not exact real world testing if it was aligned and bolted together with everything else,but while I was spinning it,it was hitting the p.p.i even pulled further towards the spline part and didnt hit. That could be the spot where it would go if I shim it?

 

if you have low engagement with this clutch and a resurfaced FW....maybe the FW is to thin (maybe it has been previously resurfaced??). IDK what minimum spec is for FW thickness but generally you can resurface them 2-3 times if they don't take to much off each time

there is a spacer that goes on the bell housing then the slave goes on. You would add like a 1/8" thick washer between that spacer & slave to stand off the slave some. Weird this is happening with a single disc clutch.

Yeah it is Fing hot everywhere. 101 here in SoCal today. I am from NY so know how hot it gets there...and the humidity makes it worse

 

Chimera youre right didn't dawn on me bout the f.w I have no clue if it's original or replaced? I've had it for 10 years car is 20 so who knows.ill take it back to the shop,they should have the specs in the computer or in shop Manuel's? I looked also if I need a new one I don't wanna spend 345 hundred on one.steel or iron no aluminum. Are zoom or luk f.w any good.also what part of ny you from? I'm here in the Bronx,riverdale

 

LUK & Zoom are fine for stock FW. Last time I bought one is was $100 at auto part store

I am from Brooklyn. Moved back in 2005 for 6 months. West side. Riverside Dr between 69th & 70th

 

Ok cool I know them exactky:thumb. Rock auto and parts geek have them good prices. Monday I'll take it back if not Tuesday to the machine shop,chimera thank you for everything been a big help will keep posted :thumb