Hello guys this is my first time to get a gear set for any of my cars, so I am pretty amped about it. The problem is looking through my Summit catelog makes me realize just how little I know about this stuff. I do know that I have a 10 bolt 6/M with 3.42's . I will be getting a 4.10 ratio, so my questions are: What brands should I consider or not consider? Do I have 7.5" or 8.5"? Please, any advise will be appreciated.

Thanks, Shane

 

you have a 28 spline 7.5 ten bolt.

i really suggest against the 4.10,7.5s are already ticking time bombs,the 4.10 gear with the small pinion just makes it happen much sooner.

 

Ok then, what ratio would you suggest on that ticking time bomb I have been told about the weakness of the 10 bolt, but its not going to be a drag strip car with constant punishment , just a little

 

it all depends man seriously,ive seen some last behind 10 second cars cutting 1.5 60s,and ive seen some blow up under bone stock motors that WERENT abused,its just a matter of luck with these,its not how you treat them,its not how you maintain them,its just a matter of luck PERIOD.

most will say that a m6 car will destroy a 10 bolt faster,while an auto will last longer{given the same variables}

i truely dont beleive this,i watched my buddys M6 ls1 grenade the TRANS before the rearend popped,and ive also seen my buddys built lt1 SS blow the rearend up so many times its not funny,and his trans is fine,it just boils down to luck.

if i were you,instead of polishing a turd{spending money on a tenbolt} just save your money,take it easy on the car,and buy a 12 bolt/9 inch IF you plan on keeping the car for a substantial period of time.

try finding a spare 3.42 from an m6 car,i see them all the time for under 250 bucks.

 

I appreciate the info Sprayn', but lets just say that I am going to keep the 10 bolt, mainly due to me being pretty dam broke these days and the only reason I am able to even consider this is due to me getting a stimulus check and that being the first little bit of extra money I have had in a very long time. With that being said, which brand would be the most durable, if you could pick one? I am having them installed by a pretty reputable shop, and I do know that I will have to get an installation kit as well. I dont want to get a set that anyone has had or known of issues with. I have seen a 3.90 ratio , but never heard anybody make any comparison with those and 4.10's. Again I am leaning towards the 4.10 but could be swayed towards a 3.90 if they would be any better in my application. The stock set is a 3.42 and I am ready for a upgrade

 

The problem with the 4.10's is that thing gear is so thin and prone to breakage, if you can get 3.90's from a good vendor and your hellbent against 3.73's buy them.

Have them set-up by a professional and make sure they bead blast the gearset before installing them.

 

Werd. I just dont think a set of 3.73's coming from a 3.42 set up would be worth it , maybe some one that has the 3.90's will chime in and share their experiences, my buddy keeps saying just to get the 4.10's, he has a fox - body with I believe 4.30's, but he's a stang guy and I'd rather go off opinions from fellow f-body owners

 

if your set on doing it,go with a motive gear,i ran a set of 4.30s in my 8.8 mustang,without ANY trouble,and it put that thing through a 347 stroker,and 300 hp shots of nitrous and a 28x10.5 et drag slick,i had ZERO issues with the gear,ive also hadda set of richmonds in several fbodys,again no issues,but,i never put them through much abuse,i will stand behind a motive gear for the simple fact that,i put that thing through HELL

and to whoever installs it,if it whines AT ALL,take the damn thing back,insist they fix it. some people claim that anything over 3.73 will whine/howl...thats horse ****. the 4.10s in my car dont whine,the 4.30s in my mustang dont whine,and the 5.13s in my truck dont whine,and i installed every single one of them. INSIST ON IT,if they make noise,take it back,insist to see a gear wear pattern when they set it up,its your HARD earned dollars being spent..make sure the shop EARNS it.

and,properly break in the gears,ive had good luck with using regular dino oil gear lube. im **** about ****,but ive never had an issue.

and its cheap insurance that the gears get properly wore in/heat cycled.

heres what ive always done

run a regular gear oil+ your friction modifier for the posi,run the gears for 250 miles,avoid sustained high speeds,and full throttle launches,its hard but when you stop driving,try letting the car sit for several hours to heat cycle the gear,after the 250 mile mark,change the gear lube with another fresh dose of regular ole gear oil + friction modifier,repeat for another 250 miles or so,then drain the fluid again,then run some good fluid like royal purple.

 

I do appreciate the great advise so far guys, and yeah I know about the noise a bad install can lead too, so I will be extremely diligent when it comes to the noise aspect of things. Hell I have a some pretty bad experiences with local mechanics working on my motor ****ing left 2 dam rags in my motor after intake manifold change, caused all kinds of problems........... so yea , the car wont leave until I am happy . To say the least I now have learned how to work on anything on my car except a gear install and have been advised to " leave it to the pro's".

 

its really not as hard as most people make it out too be,but then again,most people get nervous dealing with something they never have before.

some good ole white paint/dial caliper and a good tool set is all ya need,the crush sleeve is a bitch,other then that,its straightforward. if your not comfortable at all with it,leave it to a "pro" i ahve a hard time calling most mechanic shops pros,because ive seen way more idiots working at shops/owning shops...then fellow guys wrenching in there garages.