Like the title says. Trying to remove the t56 (think throw out bearing went boom at track last weekend-more on that later) and it appears that the bellhousing is hitting the body of the car, and lowing it wont allow the input shaft to slide out of the throw out bearing either.
Perhaps a dumb question, but is the throw out bearing supposed to be pulling that far back as i pull the trans back? It doesnt appear stuck on the input shaft, the shaft slides in and out of it but not completly out.

Yes the shifter is off. Ive swapped motors/tranny's countless times (on same car) but never have had this problem???? Discuss.

Reason for pulling-no clutch pedal and clutch wont dissengage.
Removed slave and spacer, put slave back on and it is working. Tightend the slave down more than normal and still wouldnt release the clutch.
Slave didnt lose pressure either when clutch was held for a minute or so, i stayed under the car and watched while someone held it in.

Any ideas greatly appreciated. Ive tried EVERYTHING. Including lightly jacking the front of the engine up which would in theory lower the trans/bellhousing but no dice.
Been trying to pull it for several hours now and need to call it a night.

Thanks for any and all replies!

Aaron

 

Separate the bell housing from the trans.

 

lol I knew that was coming but by the time I thought to come back and edit you already posted ha.

I know i could and probably will end up doing that, iam more concerned about why iam having this problem now when I havent before? Wondering if the T/O bearing should pull out as far as it is.

===EDIT=== What/Are there any upgrades i can do to the t56 for a few hundred dollas (tight budget at the moment) while its out to help it on the strip as far as reliability goes?

 

Billit keys for sure. I would do the 3-4 synco first then do the 1-2, and finally, 5-6, and reverse depending on how much u want to spend. I think I spend $65 for each set of synco keys I bought off The GearBox. They are on eBay btw.

I would also buy the very basic rebuilt kit since which has the highest wear items. You have to take everything apart to do the keys.

Even if you only do 3-4 keys and the basic rebuild kit you have only spend a couple hundred and have extended the life of the trans by thousands and thousands of miles. Don't forget to flip over the reverse synco.

 

Alright sounds good man thanks alot

 

what kind of times did you run at the track

 

low 10's (1/8th mile) due to MAJOR traction issues and sucking my first time out.
Was on street tires, opening day of track, and I guess that track is known for being slick anyway I guess they dont spray that vht stuff or whatever on it either.
Even letting completly off the throttle and getting back into it in 3rd would start spinning again so my times deff. sucked.. I think I passed the lights at 85mph at my fastest
SLips are in the car or i'd show you, embarrasing as it is. My first time at the track plus driving stick=terrible reaction times haha.

On my 4th run i launched super easy, almost stalling (2nd gear) and very gently got into it and didnt spin at all. It broke going into 4th at about half track but i still coasted thru the line at a mid 10second something since I wasnt spinning the first half the track that time.
I actually coasted thru the line just barely ahead of a turbo CRX I think he might have had traction issues on launch though, i cant imagine a turbo car that small running that slow.

 

As far as ur disengagement issue check to see if the t stud is loose

 

This is probably pretty obvious, but what is a t-stud?

 

it retains the clutch fork

 

Right, gotcha! Thanks

 

Just got it all apart.
The T Stud was not loose, however the spring on the clutch disk are mangled and about ready to fall out. The throw out bearing also has a little bit of play in it and appears slightly bent, although that might be from me trying to pull the tranny.
The clutch fork is not bent, and the disk does not appear to be worn down enough for the springs to be beat up like they are.

Question, would these problems cause it to not have clutch pedal and not dissengage?
Before i pulled the trans I removed the spacer on the trans and bolted the slave cylinder back on it and had someone push the clutch and everything appeared fine there, didnt lose pressure or anything after a few minutes so I didnt think it would be a master/slave cylinder issue.
Car would start in gear but the clutch was dragging to the point that it would want to take off and would not go in or out of gear with engine on. If i tried putting it into any gear with engine on the car would roll forward or backward (if reverse) but wouldnt actually go into gear.

The pressure plate has a very slight groove that I can almost catch with my fingernail, safe to re-surface or not? Would this warrant having the trans inspected for internal problems?

==EDIT==-This is a Spec Stage 3 setup with 6puck clutch disk.

Any thoughts?
Thanks for all the replies so far