hey guys...

I know its a v6 but please give it a look, its a very similar setup to a T56.


Alright I have problems with the clutch, it grips and slips. Mainly slips at higher rpms, or if I jump on the throttle. BUT it if I dump the clutch with like half throttle, not to harsh it will grip it pretty well, then I can ease into the throttle and it will get up and go.


If I give it a good hard shift, it will rev up into neutral.

And if I have it in 5th going like 50ish, and I lay on the gas slow or hard, it will spin up and slip.



Now for a history, at 7k miles I had the slave fail on me, clutch overheated, got a new slave, and clutch out of the deal. Car now has 52k, so thas 45k on the clutch and slave. I will admit the clutch sees rough duty, but I have always ran crappy street tires and been n/a and at worst only run mid 14s, with 2.05-2.1 60's but the car has seen powershifts.


More history, while back my stock fluid went bad(black/green), and clutch was slipping a bit. I flushed and swapped the fluid, and all went back to good. Then roughly 4-6 months later fluid went bad again looking green/black.

I have recently flushed it and bled it numerous times, with better fluid, a DOT 5 stuff off the shelf at autozone. It got a bit better but still is flawed.


I was wondering do you think its possible its the Master cylinder? Of the clutch stuff it is the oldest, and with all the bad fluid its possible the it might be getting stuck not allowing the the clutch to fully engage?

Also it is the easiest to change of them all? Do you guys think its a high possibility of being the problem, or too much wishful thinking and I need to do the clutch/slave(gonna do the slave for piece of mind if I have it apart.)

 

Come on guys throw me a freaking bone, I'm about to buy a Master

 

I would guess your disk is on the worn side. My stock clutch did the same as you described so I replaced it with a Spec 3. That was fine until a Pilot BEARING disintigrated takeing the clutch with it. My second SPEC3 is now slipping after about 2 years of service. What I did to BUY a little life on it was to shim the slave cyclinder where it connects to the bell housing so the clutch is fully engaged a bit lower when the clutch pedal is out.
If your clutch has no or very little play when the pedal is fully out, you might try this trick, since the actuator arm is non adjustable. I just fabricated a shim from a 69 cent elctrical box cover I got at Lowes. Simple to do.
Of course if the clutch is to far gone, no shimming will correct it, which is why I have a ST kit on order now. Good Luck.....