A4 vs M6 on the strip
A4 vs M6 on the strip
well, I searched and couldnt find much. I know you gain some hp and tq with a 6spd, but the auto it much more consistent.
Trying to decide whether to swap to a 6spd, toasted my A4, a m6 swap would be cheaper than a race rebuild + a stall
thanks
Trying to decide whether to swap to a 6spd, toasted my A4, a m6 swap would be cheaper than a race rebuild + a stall
thanks
I just did the t56 swap - but haven't been to the track yet. One thing I can say is that the car is WAY more fun to drive now.
At the track, I think it all depends on how good you can shift. But in general:
A4 = lower 60 ft. times - more consistency - lower MPH - ET??
M6 = higher 60 ft. times - less consistency - higher MPH - ET?? (depends on how good you can shift)
At the track, I think it all depends on how good you can shift. But in general:
A4 = lower 60 ft. times - more consistency - lower MPH - ET??
M6 = higher 60 ft. times - less consistency - higher MPH - ET?? (depends on how good you can shift)
If your simply going for TImes then I would go with an M6. If you go and play "King of the hill" then Auto is the way to go b/c of the consistancy of an A4. But remember with an M6, Your going to blow ur rear end alot sooner.
Once you tally up the cost of the tranny itself, a decent aftermarket clutch alternative, and all the other odd-n-ends to do the swap, the cost is probably going to be close to that of a race rebuild and higher stall converter. Whatever the price savings is between the two, you could offset by the bit of extra work involved in doing the conversion. I think it boils down to is what you feel more comfortable driving with and what is going to suit your needs better.
If you want to drag race, stick with the auto. I'm speaking from experience!!
I also swapped to the T56 last summer, but mainly because I blew my A4 out on a road course, which has become sort of my new "passion". It is, by no means, "cheaper" to swap than to rebuild the A4 and add a stall
. Heck, even for a Canuck like myself, it's around ~$1700 usually for a strong 4L60E, and ~$800 for a stall. I spent around ~$3000 to get my T56 and all the associated parts, but THEN I got the treat of having to rebuild the T56 anyways, because 2nd gear was shot, 5th was a little sticky, as was reverse! 
As for 1/4 mile performance, here's what my car has done:
A4 w/2.73's, only mod being lid: 13.434 @ 105.80, 2.152 60'
A4 w/4.10's, car still mostly stock: 13.02 @ 107.44, 1.94 60'
then:
M6 w/3.23's, no other engine mods: 13.402 @ 107.65, 2.152 60'
M6 w/3.90's, also with LT Headers: 12.878 @ 110.15, 1.94 60'
So you see, the car ran almost identical times, regardless of A4/M6, with "stock" like gearing. Now with the M6, it trapped higher, but then with lower gears (4.10's) the A4 pulled a much better time
.
This year I finally hit a 12, with the M6, but I've also dropped the ratio again to 3.90's, as well as installing LT headers, a Magnaflow cat-back, and that was running BFG DR's. I ran 3 other 12's (12.96, 12.97, 12.99) but my consistancy is WAY off what it was before.
I think you'd do much better with a built auto and stall, which can shave nearly ~1/2 second off your time, and that's WITHOUT any engine mods!!!
I also swapped to the T56 last summer, but mainly because I blew my A4 out on a road course, which has become sort of my new "passion". It is, by no means, "cheaper" to swap than to rebuild the A4 and add a stall
. Heck, even for a Canuck like myself, it's around ~$1700 usually for a strong 4L60E, and ~$800 for a stall. I spent around ~$3000 to get my T56 and all the associated parts, but THEN I got the treat of having to rebuild the T56 anyways, because 2nd gear was shot, 5th was a little sticky, as was reverse! 
As for 1/4 mile performance, here's what my car has done:
A4 w/2.73's, only mod being lid: 13.434 @ 105.80, 2.152 60'
A4 w/4.10's, car still mostly stock: 13.02 @ 107.44, 1.94 60'
then:
M6 w/3.23's, no other engine mods: 13.402 @ 107.65, 2.152 60'
M6 w/3.90's, also with LT Headers: 12.878 @ 110.15, 1.94 60'
So you see, the car ran almost identical times, regardless of A4/M6, with "stock" like gearing. Now with the M6, it trapped higher, but then with lower gears (4.10's) the A4 pulled a much better time
This year I finally hit a 12, with the M6, but I've also dropped the ratio again to 3.90's, as well as installing LT headers, a Magnaflow cat-back, and that was running BFG DR's. I ran 3 other 12's (12.96, 12.97, 12.99) but my consistancy is WAY off what it was before.
I think you'd do much better with a built auto and stall, which can shave nearly ~1/2 second off your time, and that's WITHOUT any engine mods!!!
I have someone with the complete set of parts for the swap for $1100.
hopefully his word is good...
IMO, an auto will never sound as good as a manual. I also like the added control. Anyone can drive an auto, it sends chills down my spine to hear a opened up motor with someone who knows what their doing with a clutch and shifter
hopefully his word is good...
IMO, an auto will never sound as good as a manual. I also like the added control. Anyone can drive an auto, it sends chills down my spine to hear a opened up motor with someone who knows what their doing with a clutch and shifter
^ ^ and the sound of grinding gears because of someone who doesn't know what they're doing with a clutch and shifter sends chills down my spine
.
All I'm saying is don't do the swap for the wrong reasons. And be prepared that you're NOT the driver you think you are ... even I've been guilty of that!!
.All I'm saying is don't do the swap for the wrong reasons. And be prepared that you're NOT the driver you think you are ... even I've been guilty of that!!
heh, thats true. ive drove a stick a few times (my dads 600hp wagon has a muncie 4spd
) but I havent owned one. im sure to make an azz of myself at least a couple times but I pick things up quick.
man im more torn between the 2 now than ever...
id do it but im real scared of buying someone elses problems, when i could spend the money and KNOW what im gettin
) but I havent owned one. im sure to make an azz of myself at least a couple times but I pick things up quick.man im more torn between the 2 now than ever...
id do it but im real scared of buying someone elses problems, when i could spend the money and KNOW what im gettin
I love my M6
I will never regret doing the swap... I also dropped my 1/8 mile 0.25 secs (yeah, my A4 was slipping a lot and needed ANOTHER rebuild
). The only bad part is when you miss third gear
I will never regret doing the swap... I also dropped my 1/8 mile 0.25 secs (yeah, my A4 was slipping a lot and needed ANOTHER rebuild
). The only bad part is when you miss third gear
Last edited by Drowned; May 17, 2007 at 08:31 AM.
I wasn't talking about track use but daily driving, which the M6 makes a hell of a lot funner. Since I commute a lot and go on the highway, theres nothing like rev matchin and dropping her down to 4th at 80mph to fly by a semi in your lane. But the fact that the t56 can hold more power should be a + when it comes to the strip. Yes the rear end will blow up if you use slicks but we are talking about trannys here.
T56 will pop a 10 bolt with street tires. I blew out 2 in my 88 and my brother popped 13 in his 96 Trans Am. He has since gone with an LS1/4L60E swap and hasn't broken a rear yet.
Well, it was easier to pay $150-250 every now and then for gears or another stock 10bolt than to drop $2500 at once for a 12bolt. This was over a span of about 4 years. He broke 2 in 1 day, broke his then I loaned him my rear end and he broke it as soon as he was finished and went down the street for a test drive.


